Technical R10 overdrive kickdown switch...HELP...lol

I will perform those tests. The governor is a refurbished and tested known working unit I just got from vanpelts. No sealer at all was on the threads, the mounting surfaces were clean and dry as well. Now earlier someone mentioned a ground for the transmission? Should I make a ground cable for the trans to the frame?

 

A couple more things...

When grounding the governor wire, try grounding it to the governor case first, then the transmission case, if you have to go to the frame/body to get a ground you'll want to clean/scrape some of the bolts on the trans to ensure a good ground.

Second, be very careful how you wire in the kickdown function when using an electronic ignition. As designed, the factory wiring grounds the distributor side of the coil momentarily. This makes the coil 'see' the points as closed, preventing any spark and unloading the transmission so it can shift. Remember, spark is produced when the points OPEN and the magnetic field collapses. Removing input power to the electronic ignition will cause a spark (the circuit 'opened'), the exact opposite of what you need, possibly resulting in trans damage. But wiring it as shown may expose the module to high switching current (a direct, no resistance path to ground) possibly killing it.

I think the answer may be to install a resistor in series in the wire between the kickdown switch and the coil. The Ohm value should be the same or a bit less as the coil primary resistance, with both checked 'cold'. What the watt rating should be needs to be determined. Ask your ignition supplier how many amps it supplies to the coil and size it accordingly. I'd use a wire-wound resistor, they're more robust. Because this is an intermittent application, you can size it at probably 50% of max current. And I would discuss all this with the ignition manufacturer, but you may have to go up a level or two in tech help to get a straight answer.

 

I guess if it comes down to it, I would just run a wire from the positive post on the battery to a toggle switch, and out of the switch to the #4 terminal on the solenoid? That bypasses everything and let's me control when the od kicks in?

 

One last thing. When I perform all these tests on the relay, governor and solenoid, should I have the od handle pulled out, or pushed in?

 

B. mechanics faults. 22 a in the manual. Seems to indicate handle in, o/d engage to check electrical.

 

Is there a way to wire everything through a relay and a toggle switch? I'd still like to use the governor if possible. I have a 30 Amp 5 pole relay and a 30 Amp led on/off switch

 

For you I would use a momentary contact toggle switch or push button if you want to run it in place of the kick down (which is what the kick down switch is). You can wire around the kick down switch to eliminate it and just down shift to 2nd (in o/d) to pass, but you really have to be careful not to put too much power through the the trans while in o/d.

I've used a relay, toggle and cable on a setup before that didn't use the governor and worked great for years (I sold the truck) you just have to pay attention.
The truck I put it in didn't ever have an o/d unit. Around town I didn't use the o/d (unless a long stretch of road without stop lights or signs), pushed the cable in before I got onto the freeway, clutch was in when I turned on the toggle switch.

 

The 49-50 Ford overdrive transmissions had a reverse lockout switch on the tail housing, which is normally closed when the handle is pushed in at the dashboard. This switch opens when you shift into reverse to deactivate the electrical circuit from the governor (thus preventing the solenoid from operating when you get into reverse). Push the handle in to do the various steps for checking out the system. However…..if the switch were always open, the system would never go into overdrive. So, check out the reverse lock out switch too. Use a continuity tester on the terminals….power does not need to be on for the test. Dash handle in….you should have continuity . Handle in and transmission shifted into reverse….you should have no continuity.

 

That switch has been bypassed.

 

The hand drawn crappy version above (2nd one down) is mine. That setup you use the governor to ground the coil to operate the relay.