Ignition ( pre 1951 ) on a flathead there are the magnetos as Scintilla, and I seen Harman-Collings then the Spalding spools design ( maybe that came out later ) and the std 'diver head' (? maybe wrong name) but also Kong and Beck. I don't know the Kong how that burned the sparkplugs vs a magneto ? Its rather neat has the distributor direct on cam. I has been into a Scintilla with a angle drive adapter on my 59AB, but the 8AB camcover is a better alternative vs a blower installation. Guess its hard to find a Kong and I don't know how much it burn gas either, but I saw Mallory had a neat direct drive distriburor ( new ) if one can't stand all issues.. -Info, or ideas are welcome.
Has to look into Lincoln ign, just the name is cool. No, I’m in the early 50’s now.. Say 1950. Nothing on my 5W 32 coupe project is so far newer than 1949 ( ok tires is new and crank berings but allot things like that will be new.
Once you've run a mag, you'll probably not run anything else - especially with a blower. I have run both Harman-Collins mags as well as vintage and modern Scintilla/Vertex mags. The nice thing about a Scintilla/Vertex is that ALL the parts are available, you can put rare-earth magnets in them (so you don't have to have the mag recharged) and they run pretty flawlessly. Also, the Scintilla/Vertex mags have a configurable mechanical advance - which you don't have on a Harman-Collins mag or a Kong distributor. I like having an advance mechanism - so I don't abuse my starter during start-ups.
They do nowadays. When I was vintage racing it was mostly intermission shows at a regular venue, push trucks were con****uous by their absence. Also, some guys run mags in their street cars.
I run a Vertex mag on my street flathead - wouldn't have it any other way! They just run and run and run . . . and if your battery or starter fails, give it a push-start and you're on your way!
I suppose late models do but you won't see a midget or sprint with one, at least not in the 2 ***ociations I belong to. Dale, I bought a brand new H&C mag with a 2 digit serial number and put it on a 304 street engine. Never owned a flathead street engine without one.
Well my crank snaut has a nut for hand start and my tractor has the tool... Scintilla is before 1950, correct. Its rather easy find a Scintilla here in Sweden but most comes from Army and has no advance ( or is 4-cyl ) I read here what Ronnysroadster said on the H-C no advance ; https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/harman-collins-magneto-timing.970059/ I found one Scintilla but he wanted to keep it. I also foun this Vertex but it mudt be 70’s or 80’s parts ( se pic ) Ok in price but the short angle adapter = hard clear space. Last week I heard a guy here bought a dual for decent money ( 600 USD ) and it was with std tools, instructions and adapter. I waited on a guy here at Hamb in USA but he got ill and I waited a long time but price wise it was as he said ’he has 3K in it” (?) and not complete and he might keep it. So nothing more back. I dont pay that money for a magneto in parts. One he in Sweden from Hamb showed me his stuff ( nice parts ) but not for sale. I has now found a 8BA Scintilla and a camcover. It was not what I was looking for as I wanted the angle adapter ( 59 AB block ) It might be best for a blower vs space go 8BA. Lets see what he has and condition. -He has a 32 roadster with a Italmeccanica blower and dual Scintilla, and it sounds like on nitro :- ) I’m there to bought rear 16 or 18” Halibrand smooth side wheels. Looking for that trip ! Those wheels will be awdome on my 5W coupe. Will show what I found in distributor.
The Kong Championship Model has a mechanical advance and I have seen a photo of a Berk with advance too. These are pictures that I found on the internet. The Kong’s are difficult to find and the Berk’s are more difficult.
This units are neat but are the any 'fire' in them vs a Scintilla magneto ? Then even if one can set advance timing will it turn up att full powers ? It only need lower ignition when fire up or go idle, then it must get ignition to make power. In my race cars I always had a locked timing ( max ) so when fire upp I rotate starter and then press ign on. It works great in pit at idle cruzing. I has 37 degree in my stocker 426 Hemi, and never a issue fire up.
BTW: The two units above don't have what is commonly referred to as "mechanical advance" - they have adjustments for static or "initial advance". Mechanical advance means that as the RPM goes up that an advance mechanism changes/advances the timing. Example: The weights and springs that are used on 1st gen SBC type distributors (under the rotor) and the weights inside of flathead factory distributors . . . these all create a known advance curve based on RPM. It is a FIXED curve and has no ability to understand load - unless the distributor also has a vacuum cannister, vacuum brake, etc.. Harman-Collins mags have no advance mechanism - Scintilla/Vertex and most mallory mags usually have mechanical advance plates/mechanisms - though some are "locked out" and some are not. If you're setting up a Scintilla/Vertex mag, you have to ensure the advance mechanism is setup for a flathead - and isn't one that is normally used on an engine like a SBC (that needs a lot more mechanical advance). I like to have 7 - 8 degrees of advance in the mag (14 - 15 crank degrees) and then an initial advance setting of about 8 - 10 degrees of initial/static advance (depending on the engine and mag).
From what I have read the Kong Championship Model has a cable and timing can be advanced or retarded manually from inside of the car while driving. With that being said it is pretty primitive compared to what you are describing.
Yeah, have also heard of folks doing that with the Offenhauser "advance plates" - though without the ability for fine adjustments (or hard stops), can see it being a mess. It would be dang hard to know how much to "push/pull" a choke type cable for any precise timing. And if you get it wrong, you can destroy an engine in a hurry - especially at high revs and full-race loads (due to detonation).
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