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Hot Rods Radiator advice...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cwatson1953, Sep 29, 2008.

  1. cwatson1953
    Joined: Nov 7, 2006
    Posts: 972

    cwatson1953
    Member

    this is for my 292 L6 in a '53 chevy 210. mild cam, headers, 4 bbl. nothing super hot, pretty mild.

    need to replace the rad, and of course for as little money as possible.

    the battle is:

    2 row aluminum

    or

    3 row steel/brass?

    any benefits of one over the other?
    thanks

    chris
     
  2. rc.grimes
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 694

    rc.grimes
    Member
    from Edmond, OK

    Got a new one locally through a radiator wholesaler for $149. 3-core copper/brass. Took then only two days to get. Would have cost me $200 to have my original recored.
    I don't think there would be any benefit for your application to using an aluminum radiator.
     
  3. JPMACHADO
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 983

    JPMACHADO
    Member
    from Not Listed

    I ordered a really fancy one from Howell. It easily got a leak, and then ran so hot I had to stop the car , the leak was spewing forth, and fluid was running out all over.

    Went to NAPA after searching on-line through several Chevy Model cars so I could be the correct inlet and outlet. The pictures have dimensions on them. Paid HALF of what the Howell cost. Ran so cool I had to put a thermostate in. Also, if there is a problem no shipping and a face to deal with.
     
  4. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    The 2 row aluminum will cool like a 3 row brass and be lighter. Unfortunately if it's OEM it'll have ugly and not-modifyable end tanks.

    Personally, if the question was copper versus alum in my car, the aluminum ones I'd be eyeing would be universal fit stock car radiators. They're cheap and decent quality, and any old weld shop can plug a hole or relocate a fitting since they're all aluminum.

    Good luck
     
  5. cwatson1953
    Joined: Nov 7, 2006
    Posts: 972

    cwatson1953
    Member

    Cool, thanks everyone.
     
  6. Fwiw, some aluminum radiators are epoxied together.
     
  7. cwatson1953
    Joined: Nov 7, 2006
    Posts: 972

    cwatson1953
    Member

    yea, all the ones i have looked at are welded, i wouldn't go with anything that wasn't welded.

    i'm leaning more towards a steel/brass 3 row...if not for any other reason that i can go get one locally...rather than an aluminum that i have to order.

    thanks
     
  8. The problem with Aluminium is they are not repairable. Great for a race car but on your street car go with copper/brass. They can be modified if need be, repaired and a small hole anywhere doesn't herald the end of the radiator.
    Doc.
     
  9. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    My experience with cheapie aluminum stock car radiators (in stock cars) is they're about 5X more damage resistant than a brass radiator because they're fully welded and thicker material. And my experience with OEM aluminum radiators is I've never seen one corrode thru the tubes, only plastic tank & crimp failure. If you're using decent antifreeze and changing it every decade, I'd expect a stock car radiator to last the life of the car.

    Good luck
     
  10. cwatson1953
    Joined: Nov 7, 2006
    Posts: 972

    cwatson1953
    Member

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