I cannot speak for anyone else but I personally like to follow this procedure after you purchase a kit like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Prestone-A...ash=item2592e8bf40:g:UfoAAOxyJs5Rc5Pr&vxp=mtr NOTE: I do not know the ebay seller and just used a random link, but you get the idea. Depending on how much scale and rust you have in the block and/or radiator, you may want to purchase an additive that will help remove buildup chemically as you do so mechanically with water movement. 1. Bring the engine to operating temperature, and make sure the heater control valve is completely open to do a thorough flush of everything including the heater core obviously. 2. Secure a large drain pan to catch all antifreeze mix/coolant. 3. Shut off the engine and open the drain ****s on either side of the block, and if you have a second drain pan, open the drain **** for the radiator. Be careful - the coolant will be HOT obviously. 4. Allow all coolant to drain out. 5. Install the backflush kit per instructions. 6. The next thing to do would be to make sure that you are as rid of as much coolant as possible. Usually there is some still hiding out in the heater core/hoses and just a little bit in the block. The best way to do this is to install the kit, leave your drain ****s open, and your radiator cap on. Attach a water hose to the adapter you have installed and watch for the antifreeze to make its way out of the drain ****s - catch it with your pan(s). Once the coolant is completely gone you can go on to the next step. 7. From here you should be able to simply follow the instructions of the kit, or if you are using a flush there may be specifics. At any rate, do not forget to close your drain ****s back before filling with water to flush! 8. When you are at this stage of flushing all that you are letting out of the system is simply water and old metal deposits/rust - no environmentally hazard there but messy to say the least. If you are using a chemical to flush, do catch all of that residual with a drain pan. 9. Personally, I like the back flushing and have used this style kit on a number of Y blocks down through the years. The kit makes it easy to get things filled back up too. 10. NOTE: some guys like to remove the thermostat while flushing - that is certainly an option as well. Personally, I never did.
I have found that by “pulsating” the water by kinking and releasing the hose seems to break loose even more gunk.
i bought a motor that had been sitting with no water in it for 10 years....filled it with citric acid and left it for a while occasionally spinning the water pump....when i dumped the water you should have seen all the **** that came out on that note....i have other motors stored away for future projects and i fill them up with a weak mix of soluble oil.....keeps them from rusting up and also keeps the water pump from drying out
"Back in the Day" I liked the DuPont #7 had the cleaner and neutralizer in a can that looked like cleanser. I did a flush a while back with white vinegar and baking soda.
Thanks, "danman". Good info, for sure. Never having done this before, do I need any special tools to open drain****s on block?
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