~ Radiator Help Asap Please For Daily Driver ~

Hey guys a little info I have a 170ci 6 3 on the tree. I bought this http://www.alumorad.com/ford-falcon-all-aluminum-radiator-60-61-.html to try to help with cooling issues and thought it would be an easy bolt in app. Well I take everything apart and the new radiator doesnt seem to fit. Its about a 1/2 in taller and when trying to use the top holes the bottom where the trans line are it hits the crossmember coming off the frame holding the front of the car. I banged the **** out of it to make enought room but no bueno! I also tried using the lower mounting hole but the fan hits the bottom part also. My question is anyone know another aluminum raditor thats "BOLT IN" I dont want to have to notch the crossmember or drill holes. I want something thats better for my car also and have no plans for a long time in switching the motor. I need help asap as this is my daily driver and want to fix this issue asap.
Ive also looked on ebay for some and found tons of radiators but have no idea what is good and what will bolt right in.




Thanks
George

 

it's really tough to see from your picture but if the trans cooler fittings are the sole issue here's something to try...

-the internal trans cooler isn't needed for a manual trans... most manufacturers put them in so it fits an auto or manual trans... why make two radiators right?

-if the trans cooler line fittings are screwed into the lower tanks cooler threads you should be able to unscrew them from the internal cooler

-NOTE; DO NOT UNSCREW THE LARGE NUTS THAT HOLD THE COOLER INTO THE ACTUAL RADIATOR!!!! those nuts hold the cooler that is sealed into the radiators tank... loosen those and plan on a leak... a bad one

other than that... you really get what you pay for these days... i recommend taking your radiator to a professional shop in your area and finding the cost to repair or recore yours first for old cars... almost always

here's a good way to locate a professional radiator shop...
http://www.narsa.org/consumer/locate_service.cfm

btw... i work at a radiator shop

 

Take a trip to junk yard and measure different radiators, I'm sure you will find one to fit.

 

I want new not old or id keep the one I have. plus I want bolt in not mods at all.

 

How about re drilling holes in the radiator mounting flange, I don't think that half inch is going to make the radiator collide with your hood. Your not going to be able to find a direct bolt in aluminum rad for your baby 6 cylinder unless you have a shop custom make you one. Drill a couple holes or spend a couple hundred bucks, your choice.

 

Sell your car,you are obviously in the wrong hobby then.

 

drill some holes to mount it to the top...its easy and it sure will work. its only 1/2 inh or so...you should be ok.

 

I had a '65 Falcon, same set up as yours and was wondering why you didn't go with a new stock radiator that is MADE for the car. They're out there and probably priced better than your aluminum headache.

If that won't cool a 170 6-banger, you have other problems.

BoB

 

New radiators for that car are so cheap. They are the most popular hot rod radiator out there and available from Autozone and others for around $145 for the 3-row V8 radiator, more than enough to handle your 170 L-6.

 

Redrill mounting holes or open them up to vertical slots with die grinder. No such thing as bolt in with any aftermarket part -- it seems everything wants some kind of attention first. Isn't that what we love about this?????

 

Ditto...

DPI # 251 for a stocker
DPI #1463 for a 3-row

Here... get one of these Proliance # 433251
http://www.google.com/search?q=4332...ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GGLG_en

btw... was there something wrong with the old radiator... and wtf do you want an aluminum one just out of curiosity?

 

The problem is that the two mounting holes that are already in place are pretty close together and there isnt a space for a new hole.

This is more than a hobbie for me its my daily driver. Yes I love working on cars but I dont want to F around with this when my back is all messed up from the day before. It said bolt in and thats what I expected! I didnt expect spended 2 hours trying to make it fit and then having to put the stock on back in.

Theres not enough room for a hole in between.

I dont know I took it to my family mechanic and he said to replace it with that one. I also went to autozone and looked at their but a sales rep there told me that any after market aluminum radiator would be 100x's better than the stock one.

Would the stock V8 radiator fit my V6?

Yeah I figured that but like I said I spent 2 hours trying to make it work and cant without notching the frame crossmembers that hold the front of the car up. I dont want to notch those because of safty reasons.


Thanks everyone for the help.

 

I think you need to back up some steps, unless you already did this and didn't say so. Did you have the old radiator checked out (simple flow test, maybe have the core checked). I agree that an aluminum radiator is unnecessary for a stock 170. There may be a problem other than or in addition to the radiator. I'll leave the Autozone guy's comment for someone else.

 

Take it to a radiator shop for a new core with more rows of tubes It'll be a new radiator that bolts in looks original and cools better. I've done this on several work trucks.

 

No I didnt have it checked out I took my car the first day I bought it to our family mechanic and he looked over my car quick and said I should replace the radiator and gave me where to get the new one. I dont know much about cars yet and im learning as I go so I trusted that he knew what he was talking about. I know that on long hot drive the radiator leaks out the top cap but then again I dont know if it was over filled or not. It doesnt have a reserve tank so I took that as its not good to see overflow everytime I drive.

I could do that but wouldnt it be more expensive than just buying a new one? how long does it take? this is my daily driver I cant be without a car for a few days.

 

totally ignoring my advise huh?

good luck...

 

well if you are limited on teck. abliaties. try measurinr your old one go to a pick a part lot find one simaler in size( newer one are alu. with plasitic ends, and make your own hold downs. when i supercharged my 390 in a 63 gal. i ended up turning the rad. around and having it sit in side the cradle to give me the room i need for the drive pully, and with a newer one you can use the stock elec. fan( just hook up the wires to turn on with the key.

 

Make the hole a long oval, radiators are stationary and will stay in place fine with an oval hole. Your over complicating things.

And please don't take any advice from anyone at an autozone ever again.

 

ovaling the whole will be alot better then F'n around trying to find another one that will "fit" the way the stock one does, unless you get a stock replacement. Put it in, find 2 straps and secure it to the engine compartment (or zip ties, or whatever), put your hoses on, fill it up, call it a day. It doesnt move, if its braced good and doesnt fall forward into the fan your good to go.

 

Your **** about wanting it perfect and you beat the **** out of the crossmember? WTF?

This isn't rocket science. You should be able to set the radiator about an 1/8" off the crossmember, drill new holes (if they are close to the others get some fender washers, they will cover the slots and hold it fine) and bolt it in.

Get an overflow bottle and you can run a little more water in the radiator. If not then fill it up, it will puke the first time it gets hot as it seeks it's happy water level. You'll be fine after that.
Make sure you flush the motor so you don't contaminate the new radiator.

All done, go for a drive.

 

I second decker's advice these should blot right in.This is a direct bolt in and seems what you are looking for.
Try getting your money back on the one you bought and get one of these before you start cutting or drilling.But if your stuck on using the one you have then you got to modify it like what was previously said.Good luck

 

Amazing over 800 posts on this site by this guy? I must have signed in at my wifes freakin tupperware forum.
" If you're gonna err, err on the stout side" my Grand dad
1ARock

 

Hey 1arock lick my nuts you ****ing ***hole! What better way to learn than to ask questions you ****ing ignorant ****. I bet your one of those tards that never asked anything and thought you knew it all in school now look at you I bet your working some lame *** minimum wage job at taco bell or flipping pizzas cause your too stupid for anything else! **** off ***** FNG.

 

And you've been here less than a week and just seem to feel the need to knock someone else. What a Jack ***

 

I'd take the stock radiator to a radiator shop and have them take a looksie while you have it out. They'll probably do it for free or very cheap. Pressure and flow tests. Hell, you can do a simple flow test yourself by putting a garden hose in one end and making sure you get good, clean flow out the other.

 

I called a few shops today and ghey were all above $300 to have its recored and everything. Is cheaper and easier just to get it replaced. Thanks for the response

 

A pressure and flow check has nothing to do with getting an estimate on recoring your rad.
Did you ever put a real temperature gauge on it?

Norton

 

Go to Pep Boys ; Auto Zone ; Advance Auto Parts or NAPA and order a new radiator which is cheaper than a recore. Also get a new engine thermostat and gasket. Buy some cooling system flush to run through cooling system to get out croud from engine block. Add antifreeze and a coolant reserve tank to overflow hose. Most stores have a cheap reserve tank or bottle. Engine temp. should run between 160- 185 degrees.