Radiator support rods. Thoughts?

Been sort of looking around and didn't see much on the subject. For those of you running engines that are sticking out all over the place and have a 6x2 carb setup, or the likes, that interfere with about everything, what did you do with your radiator support rods?

I was thinking of just making some rods that worked their way around the carbs, but also thought it might look a little hokey. Obviously a straight shot is out of the question. I was also thinking of just supporting the radiator in such a manner as to eliminate them all together.

Thoughts, suggestions?

Here's what I'm up against...


The radiator will be a custom job to fit in a 32 Grille shell.

 

I thought this looked pretty good...

JH

 

Yeah, that's basically what I was thinking about.

 

Hard to see here but it's a loop around the air cleaners with short stubs welded on the front to reach the radiator.

 

Oh! Great input guys!

 

I didn't need to do them this way for clearance, but, I don't like the fact that the stock locations bring them together at a sharper angle than follows the body taper...it creates the optical illusion of them heading upward, toward the radiator, to me, depending on the angle it is veiwed from...especially with a stock height rad/shell, and cowl.
I took '33/34 ( if I remember correctly...) supports, which are 6" longer ( my ch***is is stretched 6" ) and ground the radiator side ends flat on both sides...then, I added weld, so as to fill the area more, to make certain I had enough material for a bolt hole.
Drilled a hole large enough for 1/4" bolt to p*** through, and used longer bolts to p*** through both the Radiator AND the support rods, as well as the grill shell...all bolted together at the mounting points on the radiator.
On the firewall end, I moved the rods outward toward the sides of the firewall, drilled new holes, and mounted them there.
I am happy with the smoother, sloping lines, and I imagine it would clear all but the most insane intake/carb setups...

 

My support rods are made of 1/2"x 1/8" flatbar and mounts from rad to the holes in the 'divots' on the cowl sides of a '30/1....similar to the pic above.....
One of these days I plan on making an aluminum hood, and the rods will help with locating and attachment....

 

I like that! Nice!

 

I used a 55 studebaker radiatro support narrowed 7", and mounted it between the frame rails in two spots, it's more solid than anything. And I won't need any rods running to the firewall.

 

Post me some pictures brotha!

 

This is the best one I have, I made a trianglar bracket and welded it on the sides and mounted it inside the frame via welded nuts in the rails. The support is a little flimsy but when you get the radiator mounted to it and ain't going no wheres!

 

Okay! Cool! I dig it! I had thought something like that would work. Is the radiator still allowed to move a little bit somehow so the core doesn't take any stress??

Thanks for posting that!

 

I probably need to mount it with some rubber cushion to the support, but right now it is solid mounted.

 

I was staring at your picture for a bit and really like how they follow the body as well as being functional in terms of support. I never thought of doing it right down the body line like that.

 

I ran my rad supports back to the sides of my cowl where the hinge clearances are located (of course, that's possible when you make the cowl)


Flatman

 

Mine also start on the sides of the cowl where the divots are on a '31 Ford. They end at the radiator shell at about the same level so they clear the engine. As a result, they fit just inside of the hood top edges-which is all I run.

 

Thank you everyone for the input! This is all really helpful! Great stuff!

 

If you are using a stock type frame (read twisty!) the mount on the radiator should have the rods close together. I believe Henry did it that way so the top of the radiator could tip side to side. The rods were designed to limit the radiator from moving front to back and breaking the mounts at the bottom. Even with a fairly stout frme I can see the radiator moving side to side over a really rough road.

 

If you buy 1933-34 Ford Stainless Rods, youll have about an extra 6 inches in length to make your bends around the Carbs.

If you dont have access to a shop and a lathe, you can get them cut and re-threaded to length after making your bends. If using the stainless rods, I suggest go to a Machine shop and spend the $15 Shop labor they will charge you for the half hour, rather than buying 3-4 dies and trying to do it by hand and youll come out ahead in the end.

 

UUUU! Good point sir!

In my case I've got a pretty stout frame. There won't be much flex. 2x4x3/16 wall. I still think that mounting it in a fashion that will allow some movement to compensate for flex would be smart.

 

I made mine out of 1/4 inch rod but ran them parallel to the lower edge of my valve covers so they would blend in from a visual aspect.

 

here's how I did mine, i just threaded the rod myself. I wanted to continue that line of the bead on the cowl, and keep the rods away from the carbs/gen.

 

...

 

Some good examples on this thread! The Henry design seemed to bring the rods forward to an intersection, so they formed a triangle. W/a flexible frame, they'd keep the hood aligned (and on!) since the top of the rad had to move in concert w/the body cowl. Since Scoot has a 2 X 4 X 3/16ths frame, there won't be the flex that the open C channel frames have. So your rad may not have the side-to-side motion issue which can cause cracks and rad joints to fail over time. The rods that run parallel to the hood side edges, maintain spacing well, but allow some parallelogram type of movement, in comparing w/the triangulation of the stock rod placement. On such a frame as the 3/16th box, I ran no rods and never had a cracking issue, but do feel the triangulated front mount would help.

 

Now THAT'S different! Hadn't thought of doing it that way! Hmmmm...

 

It was MilesM's idea.

He owns the Car, and told me how he wanted it done.

I used a aftermarket Stainless kit, and modified the Rods.
( Tig'd with Stainless fillerrod )
And made a little adaptor for the Radiator side.

I like how it came together...

 

Me too! That's given me a different perspective on things!

 

I'm trying to remember for sure, but I'm thinking my dad's '37 pickup used all-thread ran through stainless brake tubing. I know all-thread is soft stuff, but it has been that way for more than 15,000 miles with no problems.

If you ran the all-thread through the tubing, it ought to give some support to keep it from kinking while being somewhat stronger as well.

 

I like the one threading it's way through the center- and considering how low your cowl is, it might look really good coming out from in between your carbs!