Is the black paint they use on radiators something special? If so, where can I get some? Or will some cheap old black spray bomb work? Thanks, Gene
Gene, When I worked in the radiator shops in Seattle area back in the '70s, we used an oil petroleum based black paint. Took for ever to dry but was supposed to be more forgiving (cushioning) from debris going threw grill openings......................................................
If you have large amount of aluminum in your engine I.E. heads and intake go with a aluminum radiator dissimilar metals can cause a problem.
My '55 Chevy AD pickup has the original radiator in it. I had it repaired when I got the truck as it was in the cab with a bunch of other parts and had that old, leaky, been repaired multiple times look about it. Told the guy at the radiator shop NOT to pressure test it above 4 lbs. as that was the cap I was gong to use. He said, "Yeah, I wouldn't run anything more than a 4 lb. cap on this thing." because he didn't think it was going to last. Been in the truck for 12 years and still going strong. That radiator shop is still open, too and the guy in it did a repair on the radiator in the next paragraph too while I waited. Nicest guy and very good at what he does. Running an original '35 radiator in my flatty AV8. Picked it up at a swap meet for $90.00. Had a piece of blue tape on the top tank that said "cleaned and tested". Wasn't sure if it was going to fit so the owner allowed me to walk it down to the end of the row where a guy was selling an original '32 grill shell and insert. I mocked it up and seeing it would fit then picked it up and took it home. Had the radiator shop modify the bottom flange to make it flat and put a rear fill on the top tank. Works unbelievably well. Flatty runs so cool it wouldn't even get up to operating temp without thermostats. -Andy
My buddy who has been a hot rodder for a long time uses this rule of thumb - if you are keeping the car for a long time, pony up the money for a copper/brass radiator. If you are going to sell the car go with aluminum.
I guess one would have to define "a long time" in more accurate terms for the phrase to be relevant. To some, "a long time" could mean a year, but to others it could mean 30 years. For a brass/copper radiator to be cost effective, it would have to live 3x as long as a new aluminum radiator, and there would have to be a location local to the owner to have it repaired. There is not a radiator repair shop within 30 miles of here. The last time I had a copper radiator repaired was over 10 years ago, and even back then, the repair cost 3/4 of what I paid for my new Champion aluminum rad. I'll take my chances. If it craps out in a year or 2 and they won't stand behind their lifetime guarantee, I'll came back here with my hat in hand and you all can tell me you told me so. Gene
Remember the worlds greatest truism. You get what you pay for. How much quality can you get in a $125 Chinese aluminum radiator that has epoxied cooling tubes instead of being Tig welded.
I seem to remember a old radiator guy here in town said he thinned oil base industrial enamel half and half. HRP
Well, it will cost more to have the aluminum radiator repaired, IF it's repairable at all. Are you sure about that? Where do all the heavy equipment guys (i.e. construction equipment, & trucks) have their radiators repaired? Those guys use radiator repair shops all the time, it's extremely common. In those working environments jobsite hazards and such damage happens to radiators very frequently. Not to mention anytime major repairs are performed on the engine, the common practice is to send the radiator out for hot tank & pressure test. I'll bet there's a shop around that you're just not aware of. Have you asked around?
The last radiator shop in town closed about 2 years ago. It was across the street from the only big truck repair shop in town, and was owned by a relative of owner of the big truck shop. Maybe the truck shop is repairing their own radiators, (I couldn't afford to pay their prices) or maybe they are hauling them 30 miles to get fixed. For those that are concerned, my new aluminum radiator is fully tig welded, not epoxied. Gene
My 55 and 37 have the original radiators but both have bee recored,I prefer the look of a original over a newer aluminum radiator and do not know what I will do if I have a problem since there are no radiator shops around now.
Hi all, long time listener, first time caller. I noticed this week that the radiator in my 65 Falcon Wagon has a tiny leak along the top seam. It small so losing a tiny amount of coolant each time I drive and I can hear pressured air rushing out of it when finish a drive and open the hood. Doesn't appear to be effecting the driving temperatures. It's a brass/ copper unit, not an alum. Is this something I can repair with reasonable reliability/ longevity? If so what is best to use? Or is it best to throw in a new unit and be done with it. They are not enormously expensive. Thanks,
The top tank is blown, it won't fix itself so a new Radiator is in order. Years ago you could have that fixed if the core was sound but at todays labor prices it's best to just buy another............................
Can't wait to own an electric powered hot rod. Electric cars have been around way before hot rods were even thought of and some days I just think it would sure be nice to avoid radiators, gas tanks. water pumps, points and plugs as well as many other items including exhaust systems and oil changes... Sure simpler to build but no noise. I wonder if there is an flathead equivalent in electric motors???
Got it. Thought that might be the case. Onward and upward! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
In my 40 Ford and 36 Ford the radiators are original and both started leaking at seams after being to radiator shop twice. I patched with JB Weld and no more leaks. I clean the leak area with 80 grit sandpaper beyond the leak area and spred the JB Weld over the whole area. The difference between regular and KWIK is the regular is twice as strong.
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