Sorry to hear that. My 15000 hone worked perfect. Cylinder was absolutely straight and within .0005" with a bore gage on the one I had to hone .005" oversize.
Read instructions several times. 15000 and 16000 are different animals. 15000 is rack style [which I wanted but doesn't go small enough] and the 16000 uses taper ramps [ok with this] to get size. Instructions say to measure stones with a caliper and dress them if not parallel. Yes they can be made parallel to each other but not to centerline of body. They don't tell of the inner adjustment which will take out the taper but only at the intended diameter, which I have gotten the stones to w/in .005 from the .035 they were at at 2.5 dia. [Crosley, can't through hone] . They don't tell you there are different thickness stones to get to max diameter claimed which I found out by getting different grits and seeing difference when they arrived. Would be nice if adjustment knob had a few graduations. Would been nice if they posted the instructions [like summit does]. I'll get to where I want to be; I imagine in a 3rd world country it would be a Cadillac. Not too grumpy now. I need Gerital.
Do you have a rotary table ? I'm thinking maybe a long shaft mounted grinding stone mounted in your mill..........kinda like a jig grinder set up. Indicate each cylinder true and lower the spindle till it touches. Move the mill table far enough to touch the ridge and then crank the table around. Here is a video of a true jig grinder. In your case you would just have a stationary shaft and the mill and rotary table would create the off center location. Then crank the table. It a good way to get all the way to the bottom of a hole. https://www.google.com/search?q=Jig...#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:df98cc1e,vid:xcIVPNCE2ko
A good alternative, I made a power drive for my rotary table and I do have long enough mandrels for the grinding wheels to mount in the spindle. Had a Moore just like in the video at work.
The Jalopy Journal
