I'm putting a 49 dodge diff in my 22 dodge using an 'A' model rear leaf. Could any one please indulge me in the dimensions between the shackle mounts and the height above the diff, Any photos of the set up would be appretiated. thanks peoples
I got answers from 46 to 49 inches on this question a while ago....mine are 46-1/2" could have a lot to do with the amount of weight you are putting on that spring and its condition and or manufacturer.....speedway made mine and when I called and asked them what to space em at they couldnt tell me! FIGURES.....
OK, As measured of a completely stock 28 touring rearend.... between spring eyes at ride height is 46 3/4", shackles are 1 1/2" between eyes, and the diff mount eye-eye is 49".
now, the following is the way my friend put under his touring........note that we removed a few leaves, rides a bit soft, but if I was building a modified this is how I'd assemble my spring pack....
on my 28 A r/p/u, because I wanted a short bed (2' long), I needed a 'flatter' spring, plus I wanted it to be narrower (ie 2" wide instead of 2 1/2") and not as long between the eyes. I chose a 35 ford front spring (I think, I've removed & modified some of the leaves to reduce the spring rate....), it's 1067mm between spring eyes(when at ride height, static), 1150mm between diff mounting eyes, with shackles 65mm between eyes (@ 45 degree angle, static). PM me if you have any questions etc. Cheers, Drewfus
hey drewfus! just to stay relevant, my spring is an orig. model A and sitting in the car is 47 1/2" but hasnt really got any weight on it yet.think its seven leaves. god knows why i didnt go spring behind like yours drewfus... my kick is like 13" with the spring on top. had heaps of length in the rails too. well when i do my next one will be behind.(32 rails i hope!)bringin that thing to the picnic??
If your using 35 trailing arms (?) be aware that they push the spring 'waaaaay' back so that it, and the retaining bolts clear the diff with plenty of room. I've tucked mine as close (or as far forward) to the diff as I can due to the short bed, using brackets that I shaped from out of 10mm plate. (see pic...note that I decided to incorporate a extra hole for those undesirable times when the car has to get chained to a trailer... ) Picnic.....mmmm don't know just yet, running way behind schedule. Will be at the 'kustom Nationals' as I'm flying down for a week or so.....keep your doors locked. Cheers, Drewfus
We did put them about 48" apart cc on this modified. Pretty lightweighted in the rear,so it works ok. 46 ford rear axle,homemade brackets.
I have a 48 complete rear but want to use an A frame and don't want to move the axle foreward. I am still running ideas on the rear treatment here so forgive me if my train of thought rambles a little. Another idea I was considering was to move the spring perches to the radius arms and use a T spring so the rear end is behind the cross member. I haven't seen that done but it should be do-able if you can keep the punkin from hitting the cross member when the suspension bottoms out hence the taller T spring.
You can flip sides of the tubes,like we have done here,it will give you the opportunity to use the original 48 shackle mount,only in front of the axle. If you Z your frame without adding material,it will be shorter,and your axle still on the same place. did that make sense?
Hey drewfes, This may seem like a dumb question but how did you get the plates on the end? Forgive me but I'm blonde
[ QUOTE ] If your using 35 trailing arms (?) be aware that they push the spring 'waaaaay' back so that it, and the retaining bolts clear the diff with plenty of room. [/ QUOTE ] If you're using 1935 radius rods, be aware that when I put my freshly built 1935 Ford pickup in gear, the radius rods bent like Crazy! They have NO strength. I tried several times. They pretty much wrapped around the axle. I ended up building ladder bars---outa black pipe and 1/4 plate gussets. The ladder bars have held up to tremendous torque loads.
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