Hey guys. I've been trying to figure out why people change their rear axle on their model A Hot Rods. I've got a 1931 Model A Sedan & want to go with the fenderless hi boy look. Is there any way of doing this or do I have to go with a different rear end to get the proper look. I've got Bishop/Tardells book & the only thing I've been able to find is that guys use later rearends because their worried of the rear axle breaking and losing a wheel, but it also looks like they have Tardel Brake drum retainers. Sorry if this is a dumb question. I'm new to all of this & I'm just trying to figure it all out. Thanks Josh Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My neighbor had a 31 A roadster for a while with a SBC, A/T & the OEM axle. I figured it would break, but it never did while he had it.
I like the Banjo also, but I used the strongest stock stuff. '35/'36 bells, '46 truck open center with '41 axles...if you really want it to be REALLY strong you can convert it to 9" axles from Hot Rod Works.
The model A rear you have now can be used if you want. They are not as strong as a more modern design though. It depends on what you intended use of the car is, and what engine you are planning for your car. Maybe tell us a little more about your plans for the car. Also a rear end swap is a real easy swap as swaps go, also by the way.
I will eventually do a rear swap, but right now I'm trying to spend as little money as possible until I have enough money to do some of these things. Right now I just want to try & get the high boy look while keeping it as close to stock as normal. It seems like if I remove the fenders the body will sit too high or maybe it's because of the wheels being too skinny. Am I right about this or am I wrong. -Will I be able to put wider wheels on the original drums? -My plan is to put a flathead with a t5 transmission. If that's possible. Has anyone done this? -the stance I'd like to eventually obtain is like this Will I be able to obtain something like this with the original rear axle? I know I'm going to have to do reverse eyes on the rear spring, as well as remove & replace springs with model t springs to get a lower stance. I'm just worried that with the original wheels & no fenders it's gonna look like this Thanks for the info fellas. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Crack the can of worms on the T5 with the flathead V8 and there is the decision. Some old Ford diffs can handle some, and the rest falls into play.
OK a couple of things. You do realize that your example car ( red 4 door sedan) is NOT a Model A. The stance is always going to be somewhat different because of that 32 frame. You can come very, very close to that stance though. The look will always be different mainly because of the difference in a Model A ch***is and a 32 ch***is. That is also a swap that can be made but since you are on a budget it will have to happen sometime in the future. There are two things you can do with your car now that will help a bunch. One is a dropped front axle not too expensive either, on the front will help a bunch getting that end out of the air. On the rear there are several ways to lower what you have now. There are spring kits and such that will help a lot. I am sure that some of the guys on here who are really up on lowering the rear will chime in a tell you the cheapest way to do that. Good Luck with this build !!
I ran a stock Model A rear end with a flathead V8 and had no problems. A lot depends on how you drive, the axles are the same diameter as the V8 banjo but the gears and carrier are smaller than the V8 rear end. Neither banjo will stand a lot of abuse, tapered axle with a key, I've sheared the keys, axles will break but there are several different retainers available to keep the hub on the car if the axle fails.
I guess I don't understand the question. They have been building high boys with banjo rears as long as they have been building high boys. rear end choice involves a lot of variables. Torque thrown at the rear, tire size and rubber compound. The intended use of the vehicle, gear options, the look you are after as well as the era of the build and of course there is always what is available or on hand at the time of the build. The A rear is not made out of paper machete, it will take some abuse if it is set up properly. I doubt that it would hold up to a blown and injected 392 on nitro with 14" wide sticky Hoosiers, but skinny tires and a nearly stock 265 would work. Before you decide on what rear is correct throw all your variables into the blender and see what get poured into your cup.
I guess in short I'm trying to figure out how to get close to the look of the pics I posted without throwing a bunch of money at it right now. I plan on keeping everything original for now i.e. Banger motor, trans, driveshaft, rear end, etc. I just want to try & get the car to look right without the rest end sitting way up in the air & the tires looking silly. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sorry if I'm not making my self clear or not making sense. . I'm new to this stuff & im just trying to learn & figure things out before I tear the car apart without knowing what I'm doing & then lose steam because I'm frustrated. That's all. Thank you to everyone for all of your help & suggestions. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@Tim is using a stock A rear, a '60s banger and a '39 ****** in his '29. Stock rear end. Reverse eye springs, and heavily stretch dropped A axle in the front. 16" wires ( I think '35?).it sets just about like that 4 door on an original A frame. Maybe drop him a note. he can give you blow by blow. Or look here, its lengthy from concept to where its at now but it is full of good stuff. Or drop him a not and look. I would refer you to my build but there isn't much there, and I am using stuff I got laying around, not anything that you want to search for.
To get the 'look' and stance you need to get the right wheels and tyres and sort the axles/suspension. Most people will probably be using 16" rims - steels or wires, your choice based on visual preference and for a rubber rake 5.50/6.00 16s on the front with 7.00/7.50 16s on the rear. These with a dropped front axle and a lower spring in the rear will pretty much get you there. Reversed eye front spring isn't always necessary, depends on how much of a rake you want but remember everything you do will affect everything else, so if you are on a budget take one step at a time and see if you are getting the look your after. And if you are keeping mechanical brakes you need to do your research on here about how to do that and run a dropped front axle.
What wheels do you want to use? Do you want hydraulic brakes, or original mechanicals? I think if you are trying to install a T-5 you will be wasting money converting an original A rearend to open drive. And the torquetube conversions for the T-5's are expensive too. If you really want a banjo rearend AND a T-5, go find a rearend from a '48 pickup which already has an open driveshaft, then look up a thread by Chris on making some spring hangers out of the cut off ends of the original A axle. You'll have the proper look, a great ratio for use with the overdrive, and it won't cost too much.
It's pretty hard to get that cl***ic "high boy" look of a '32 with a stock Model A frame. Some times guys left the splash aprons on to fill up the space under the car. Reverse eye springs & a dropped axle with good tire selection is the best you can do without major frame surgery. Here's a bunch of highboy Model A's to look at. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-roadster-highboys-on-model-a-frames.322162/
You can get a really cool look on a Model A Sedan by leaving the fenders and aprons. Drop it front and rear and put a set of 35 wires or 40 wheels on it with 700/750s on the rear and 550s up front. Its never going to look like that example pic sitting on a Model A frame..... and like Trad V8 said, if you still have mech brakes, get that all sorted out first or you'll have a car that sits right but doesn't stop right.
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