here is day 14 in my modified build series. today I bit the bullet and hacked the bejeezus out of a real cherry '36 rear wishbone I shortend them, angled them in and down to attach to the new receiver socket using the pivot ball cut from the split '36 front bone. I got the driveshaft back today too.. first I got the frame and axles square and level front;
I cut the bones long with a sawsall and fit with a 7" grinder with a new disc. I have been using my mig to tack and weld the frame but will use the tig to weld up the bones. I guess that's it for now.. to be continued! Paul
tailshaft down 4 degrees rear yoke up 2 degrees driveshaft up 8 degrees bones down 6 degrees center of axle to center of pivot 32" center to center U joints 14" pretty drastic Paul
very nice. like the daily updates too... make sure and tell us how long it takes to weld up the chassis!!! I'd set that pinion angle at 0-3 degrees down.
when the suspension compresses the pinion angle tips down becoming even further out of phase with the tailshaft. another anoying effect of this setup is that when the frame rotates on a longitudinal axis the eccentric location of the ball and socket swings right and left causing a rear stear situation. I suppose this could be compensated for using an anti sway bar in the rear.. Paul
I've got a buddy that has the same set up under a T on A frame. Identical, tho with an 8" diff. Drives and handles real well. It was put together by Tardel and Fuller years back. It works, I'd bet that because your wheelbase is so short you won't really notice any of the concerns you've mentioned. Looks real good from this angle anyways! my $.02 Mild Mitch
It would be nice if this hot rodding stuff was all fun and games but occasionally you run into an unfamiliar territory that becomes somewhat of a challenge. I will take a more concentrated look at it tomorrow but I think with a few minor adjustments it will work without redoing the whole thing. Paul
You have done very awesome work so far. I'd hate to see you tear up all that ingenuity. Is there anyway that you could raise the rear of the tranny, to get the angles looking good?
The angle on the bones doesn't bother me, but the pinion does. A line through the tailshaft and through the pinion should be paralell with the suspension at rest. TZ
dehudso, that is one consideration. I may raise the tailshaft like you suggest and also raise the rear of the frame, both just slightly, that should help the angle of the driveshaft. the front spring is way too soft and niether spring is even bolted to the frame yet so it's a little early to see exactly what's happening. I think I'll have the wife check my horoscope, I think it was just a challenging day Paul
flt-blk, the two are within two degrees of paralell now and if I make those small adjustments it will take care of that. it will also help reduce the total angle between the tailshaft and driveline. Paul
lookin good, ive always wondered what you do with a car lowered so much that the rear end ends up heigher then the tail shaft, all the funky angles and what not.... hell i guess if big red neck trucks can pull off stupid angles you aught to be able to figure something... good luck
Your rear spring perch / wishbone mount ... is that stock? What years? Has it been angled in? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I don't have any gennie parts to compare. I have a '48 truck banjo that would have used parallel springs and I'm trying to figure out a good way to locate it.
[ QUOTE ] The angle on the bones doesn't bother me, but the pinion does. A line through the tailshaft and through the pinion should be paralell with the suspension at rest. TZ [/ QUOTE ] what he said... And I'd chamfer the radius rod tubes where your welding them back together. Are they doubled inside? All the engine torque is going on them. But Damn, you've got a lot of fine work done..You gonna chop till ya drop? I likes it.
I like your chassis there 60's style. I plan on an unsplit rear bone setup myself. All I must say though is those rear bones need reinforcing where you are making the rear welds as that is where they usually snap, but you probably already know this.
I would think that you might be able to raise the whole motor and tranny combo vertical - upwards to a higher position between the frame rails. I looks like you've got a bit of space between the trans tail shaft and the top of the frame cut out. JUST raising the tailshaft of the trans may put the motor at a funky angle, but raising the whole thing MIGHT untweak that angle a bit. Then again, you don't want the motor sitting too high... Just some thoughts. -r
Paul, Those driveline angles wont work. I ran them through the company's driveline analysis software, and your u-joint inertias are about 30x more than what's allowable. The short driveshaft length is screwing you. For starters, you want the pinion and tailshaft to be at the same angle. If you're setting up a race car this may be different, but from the standpoint of minimalizing torsional vibration, BOTH ANGLES MUST BE THE SAME. According to our software, you can run the driveshaft with a MAXIMUM 2° difference in angle between the driveshaft and tailshaft/pinion. Example #1: Tailshaft and pinion at 2°, driveshaft level. To get there, raise the tailshaft 2" and rotate the engine 2°. Example #2: Tailshaft and pinion at 4°, driveshaft at 2°. Raise the entire engine & tranny assembly 2.5" and rotate the pinion 2°. I like this on best, as it will keep the manifold level (assuming it's on a 4° base). Ed
[ QUOTE ] And I'd chamfer the radius rod tubes where your welding them back together. [/ QUOTE ] my thought there is to tig weld them with a nice deep fusion weld without adding filler rod and then add a couple small horizontal reenforcing plates to the sides of the rear joints and wrapping the front joints with bands all made from left over tube pieces.. all tig welded and with as little or hopefully no foreign filler material. ..or am I sniffing the neigbors panties on that one? ............... a note for the beginers; this is why we tack everthing together while fitting, so we can make adjustments and alterations along the way. so far I have had to do very little rework but what I did do would have been a real drag if it were welded solid. Paul
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