[ QUOTE ] Raise the entire engine & tranny assembly 2.5" [/ QUOTE ] edmurder, I know, I know, but I really liked the way it was looking, that's why I was thinking a combination of raising the engine/transmission and frame an inch each, that would keep the visual relationship between the engine, frame and body relatively similar, astheticly speaking.. hmm, that will mean relocating the front wishbone mounts to maintain a good working angle up there, not a big deal. I also need to get a better angle finder, the POS plastic cheapo I'm using may not be giving me true readings.. Paul
Since this thing's all only tacked I'm gonna tell ya what I don't like about the hat before you buy it. The wishbone mount looks goofy hanging down there in the profile shot. Remedy for lotsa stuff... Flip your middle X member upside down so the tailshaft can ride on top of it and the engine can be raised to needed 2-1/2" Get rid of the "U" the wishbone is on and tack your wishbone mount directly to the bottom of the flipped "X" member. That might just get the 4º you need in the pinion angle too. The pinion and engine angles have to be the same at rest, wet and loaded (Yea, the pinion angle is gonna change when it bounces or gets loaded so set it up with luggage, gas and passenger weight in it.) ANd with the engine higher in the frame you can lower the front end another 4" if you want to.
ok, one last picture before I get back to it, although the angles discussed are vastly improved as you can see, and I do think will work well, now the whole car sits higher then I wanted.. I'll play with it some more before I weld it up, maybe give it a little more rake.. ....... later, Paul
[ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] Raise the entire engine & tranny assembly 2.5" [/ QUOTE ] edmurder, I know, I know, but I really liked the way it was looking, that's why I was thinking a combination of raising the engine/transmission and frame an inch each, that would keep the visual relationship between the engine, frame and body relatively similar, astheticly speaking.. hmm, that will mean relocating the front wishbone mounts to maintain a good working angle up there, not a big deal. I also need to get a better angle finder, the POS plastic cheapo I'm using may not be giving me true readings.. Paul [/ QUOTE ] OK, how 'bout a comprimise then. Bring the rear of the engine up 2" and the front 1". That should tilt the engine about 2°. Run your driveshaft level and the pinion at 2°. The carb bases wont be level, but you could fix that by angle milling the intake if you even think that's necesary.. Ed PS- I hear ya about the aesthetics. My engine is mounted a few inches higher than would be convenient so it would look "right".
I hear you DrJ, it does look goofy hanging down so low, but in the profile shot if you draw a straight line from the contact patch of the rear tire up through the pivot ball it looks to me that it damn near passes through the cars center of gravity, this would be the optimum location for my instant center. what size head does your hat wear? anyway? and where the hell did I put my haberdasher? this part was becoming a struggle yesterday but today it's almost fun, again.. funny how the mind works.. aint it?
[ QUOTE ] now the whole car sits higher then I wanted.. [/ QUOTE ] I agree. It looked so "right" before you raised it up. Here is a thought about a compromise. I know the banjo rear end looks neat (that is why I am running one also), but if it makes you end up with a stance you aren't happy with, is it worth it? If you go to a 8", 9", etc the pinion will be a couple of inches lower, which would be a big help in your case. It would be something to consider. Neal
[ QUOTE ] ...what size head does your hat wear? anyway? ... [/ QUOTE ] 8-3/8ths I think. I can't wear them adjustable baseball caps because even on the last snap they're too tight for my fat head!
NealinCA, yeah, I know and I do have an early 9" and domed wheels to fit.. then I might as well yank the little Stude motor, cause the frame and rearend would be way overkill, I think they could handle a big block..hmmmm nah, I'll give it a little more rake, and some headers or some fancy exhaust like up along the bed sides to help the look.. Paul
[ QUOTE ] ...if you draw a straight line from the contact patch of the rear tire up through the pivot ball it looks to me that it damn near passes through the cars center of gravity, this would be the optimum location for my instant center. ... [/ QUOTE ] How about (photoshopping) some side pipes or straight pipes that end just before they get in the way of the wishbones to hide the bones and fill in some of the "air space" under the frame?
I know it's pricey but what about a QC center section? The pinion is moved down then and might help out without losing the over-all feel of the project. You could send the center section off to Wilson Welding and have him convert it for a reasonable ammount. I'm just thinking here...
Looking good paul! You are an inspiration to us all, man. Are you planning on lowering the rear spring cross member? It looks like your shackels are horizontal while the set up blocks are still in there. I know you already know this... but maybe an esplanation to the masses as to what yer going to do would be good. Sam.
I've beeb following alnog this entire post and I'm still lost on all this angle talk. You best believe I'm gonna be posting about this stuff when I get to it....
thanks Sam, and all, [ QUOTE ] I know you already know this... but maybe an esplanation to the masses as to what yer going to do would be good. [/ QUOTE ] I will drop the middle of the rear cross-member, I just picked up a new front spring that should bring the front end up and I'll have to make some new motor mounts to raise the front of the motor, the transmission mount hasn't been made yet so I don't have to redo that...yet. haha. But if I do all that, the drive-line angles all start looking real good. The sad, sad truth is I just got a call from work, they want me back starting Monday.. I was hoping for two more weeks.. Today marks the end of three weeks on this thing, with prolly a total of about eighty or ninety hours.. The posts will continue but not as often, with my limited time now I need to get back on the Coupe.. Paul