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Rear End Options under Fenderless "A"'s, what did you use?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by AHotRod, Apr 20, 2004.

  1. LUKESTER
    Joined: Aug 16, 2002
    Posts: 425

    LUKESTER
    Member

    I'D rather have the driveshaft straight, and the rearend look crooked..... LUKE
     

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  2. Pancho
    Joined: Apr 18, 2004
    Posts: 65

    Pancho
    Member

    Frank, When you center the 9" rears doesn't that offset the yoke really far to the right side? Is that not inportant from a drive line geometry standpoint? Will the u-joints allow for this offset? I'm really curious since I had planned to do the same thing as KLL but after looking at the photo I can see the drawback to it in a hiboy. I already have an original rearend but haven't come across any good way to convert to an open driveline.Can an original stand up to "spirited" driving behind a Buick V-8?
     
  3. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    Will the u-joints allow for this offset?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yeah, there should be no problem with that.
    Lots of trucks are built that way and it works fine on them.
    Besides, when the axle goes up and down, the driveshaft runs at an angle too...
     
  4. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    U-joints are made to work at an angle. A perfectly straight running u-joint will not last long. If it is not running at an offset the needle bearings will Burnell (a term meaning to imbed) themselves in the cross. You can see this when you take a u-joint apart and there are little serrations running lengthwise in the bearing surface of the cross. Usually this is the result of lack of lubrication but it can present itself if the joint is run at a 0 angle. In this case the needles have stayed stationary and imbedded themselves into the metal of the cross. When the u-joint runs at an angle the needle bearings roll back and forth and distribute the grease between the wearing surfaces minimizing wear.
    There is no production vehicle made that I'm aware of that has the driveshaft running perfectly true to the centerline of the vehicle. If you don't believe it watch the next time you have yours on a hoist. Look down the center of the car and you will notice a slight angle (some more than others) of the driveshaft. If the u-joint can work in an up and down motion (which it does constantly while the car is in motion) having the driveshaft at an angle (within limits) is no big deal.

    Frank
     
  5. Pancho
    Joined: Apr 18, 2004
    Posts: 65

    Pancho
    Member

    Fab32, What is an acceptable offset? How many inches? I think I'm going to have to center my motor in the frame just because of the size.So assuming we're measuring off the centerline how far can a guy go? Also what will this offset do to traction? I think I'll use a PeteandJakes four link with a Ford transverse spring. I've never had an A before but would assume that the short wheelbase coupled with light weight will make for some traction issues. Bob
     
  6. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Pancho, As far as there being a limit I don't think you would reach it unless it was a 18" driveshaft and it was offset 6". At that time it would be too much and would require some centering of the yoke. I had a Ford van rear once that had a 11" difference in the axle lengths. It came out of a special built vehicle for the power company, and I couldn't believe the driveshaft angle it had. It apparently worked because it had over 60 thousand miles on the odometer when we pulled it out. It wasn't scraped because it was worn out, the body was literally rotting in half from our lovely salted Michigan roads.

    Frank

     
  7. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

    286 MERC.
    Thanks for the TIP on the Volvo rear!
    Sounds interesting........
     
  8. telecaster_6
    Joined: Dec 8, 2001
    Posts: 643

    telecaster_6
    Member

    I used a 58' ford 9" under my A sedan.....ended up too narrow once i got it Z'd and channeled to death though....had to have crazy offset wheels made...
     
  9. KustomLincolnLady
    Joined: Oct 17, 2003
    Posts: 1,030

    KustomLincolnLady
    Member

    Fab, thanks for all the info. I am new to the world of the model a, so I am learning a lot! We've always had 50's custom cars. I never noticed that in the pic till you mentioned it. It's been bugging me all day. Rob just got home and I read your post and asked him about it.
    He said that they took all that into consideration and it didn't really bother him. The car is going to sit pretty low, it will be channeled and won't be able to see much of it. I love reading all these posts about model A's giving me a lot of lessons [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  10. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

  11. yeah - this is friggin awesome - I am going volvo hunting

    does anyone know if any modern rears have the 5 on 5.5 pattern?

     
  12. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,691

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    59 Ford 9" going in my Sedan A... the offset factor bothers be some but I figure I can live with it.. it has a 3:50 posi..... the volvo set up is a good to know thing

    what width are they (mount surface to mounting surface??
     
  13. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

  14. Revhead,
    My "A" roadster's been running a '57 Chev rearend for the last 35-40 years. I hear tell a previous owner managed to blow it up once, but I've had no problems with it.
     
  15. Mutt
    Joined: Feb 6, 2003
    Posts: 3,219

    Mutt
    Member

    Revhead - I ran a '56 housing from '65 till '95 when I peeled the fourbar bracket from the housing at Indy. (Wasn't double sheared). Now I'm running a '57 housing (Double sheared) on my T. Check the axle splines for twisting. If yours are twisted I have a couple of sets of axles. It should hold up fine under a light car.

    Mutt
     
  16. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

    Excellant info coming in.............
     
  17. Rude Dude
    Joined: Dec 14, 2003
    Posts: 356

    Rude Dude
    Member

    I used a nine inch rear out of a 67 mustang
     
  18. Sixcarb
    Joined: Mar 5, 2004
    Posts: 1,503

    Sixcarb
    Member
    from North NJ

    55 chevy's work nice.
     
  19. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

  20. Rusty
    Joined: Mar 4, 2004
    Posts: 9,485

    Rusty
    Member

    I used a 57 chevy rearend. Worked great and looks cool. Very traditional. Just have to use adapters to run the early ford big bolt rims.
     
  21. Kiwitinbeater
    Joined: Apr 22, 2004
    Posts: 19

    Kiwitinbeater

    I used 57 to 64 Ford Half ton pickup.A bit narrow for the Z`ed frame on the Sedan but with 50 Merc 15" wheels Reversed it`s fine.I also offset the Chevy 6 an inch and a half to the passengers side so it gave me more room to drive the thing,lined up a bit better to the offset pinion on the 9",plus by using the pickup rear you keep the early wheel pattern so it matches the 40 brakes I have on the front.Hope this helps....
     
  22. jerry
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,469

    jerry
    Member

    i'vealways been partial to the 60's olds/pontiac rears. nice smooth housing. lots of area for striping!


    jerry
     
  23. bustingear
    Joined: Oct 29, 2002
    Posts: 2,341

    bustingear
    Member

    S10
     

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  24. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Heheheh...but can you trust the rear axle recommendation of a guy who calls himself... BUSTINGEAR? [​IMG]
    I'd say S10 would be fine with a stock small block V8.

    I like the 9 inchers myself but they ARE overkill in most vehicles. I've heard they have additional drag due to the tooth contact layout that causes them to be a little harder on gas as well. I wonder does that carry over to the 8 inchers?

    I HAD a 9" bargained for...looks like the bugger is gonna give it to his brother instead! Blood is thicker than water they say...but I did ALL the guys welding for the last several years! free....! [​IMG]
    Oh well.
    I DO have an S10 rearend....!?!? Hmmmm....Maybe, maybe not.

    Bill
     
  25. bustingear
    Joined: Oct 29, 2002
    Posts: 2,341

    bustingear
    Member

    Really, the stock S10 gear ratio in this one is to high. Makes burn outs hard to do. This car is a top end car with a P-Glide and a 4800 rpm manifold. I get em in the end.

    The handle comes from when I raced stockers and had welded the spider gears on a poncho rear end and it let go when I was in a pole position. very hairy and was hit twice. This was on A 4/10's asphalt track in NC.
     
  26. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

    BustnGear.
    Nice "A"!
    What are you running for a trans and engine?
     
  27. bustingear
    Joined: Oct 29, 2002
    Posts: 2,341

    bustingear
    Member

    I hate to say it on the HAMB but......350 chevy. That is what the frame was welded for. Powerglide. Lumpy cam. Demon 625 Road model. Not the new JR Baby shit. They are hard to set up, but when you get it right, they really throw the juice down. $2.00 per gallon Ouch!
     
  28. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

    yea...my "A" has twin 500 CFM AFB's, butt I've got it tuned very well, and runs great on 87 octane.
     
  29. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Ahhhh....shattered spiders! Been there...even with a 9"er!
    Damn...YOU lost them in a scary spot didn't you! [​IMG]

    The only reason I shy away from the S10 I have is the 4.10 ratio it has. I have an excellent T350 tranny and plan some highway driving so it might get a little buzzie on the tach. I have word out for a 700R4 but I do love those little T350's...never had a 700R4 before!
    This S10 has a locker of some sort as well so...I MIGHT use it.
    It just looks so SMALL after the 9 inchers ya know!?!?
    I tend to worry too much...

    I had a welded Datsun 610 rear axle in a SBC Datsun sedan before and that ALMOST lasted thru a summer of street racing and daily driving!
    Eventually I shattered the welded spiders! Hahaha
    Just had to remember not to nail it coming outta water unto dry pavement. Oop's...I forgot! [​IMG]
    Didn't bust anything like an axle or C&P however...they were kinda SMALL too, believe me!

    If you use your head, just about anything will be reliable on the street!

    Bill
     
  30. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,290

    AHotRod
    Member

    The 7 1/2" GM rears scare me with HP.
    And the 8" Fords are getting tough to find around here.
    and the Mail-Order Rear-End Guys are .......well....there as an option.
     

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