I want to install a chevelle rear end into a 54 Chevy Bel air, any pointers on removing the 4 link and reinstall the leaf springs a way thats simple and smart?
What's the width of the Chevelle rear end? It may be too wide. Nova, Camaro, S10 4x4 are all good candidates. What rear end is in there now? You know these cars didn't come with a 4 link from the factory, right?
I think he is referring to the Chevelle 4 link brackets, not his '54, but good advice 're width. If you have access to a oxy/acetylene torch or plasma cutter you can just cut off the outer brackets from the axle housing and grind the remnants smooth. Spring pads are readily available from many sources as are U bolts. One thing you need to know....due to the pivoting mount on your original '54 setup, the center bolt of the spring is 1 1/2" forward of the axle centerline. This commonly dealt with by drilling a hold in the spring pads 1 1/2" forward of center, thereby positioning the axle correctly in the wheel opening of the rear fender. Once you've done that, mount the axle to the springs, center it side to side, adjust the pinion angle and tack weld the spring pads to the axle housing. Dis***emble the spring/axle and weld the pads securely. Don't get carried away with that welding as too much will warp the housing. Ray
I did all of that. Thank you it worked out awesome, question tho, do I have 2 figure my ride height b4 tacking it if I'm planning to c-notch and bag it? Or is that's ******** and center it and do it any way?
What are you planning to do for axle location/control when you bag it? My recommendations were based on the original style leaf springs. Ray
Well, my guess is that the pinion yoke will pitch up a little as the axle moves upward (in relation to the frame), but maybe not. IF you plan to drive it on the streets/highways nearer to a "normal" ride height, and lower when on static display or low speed cruising around the fairgrounds, then I'd set the pinion angle based on normal ride height. Normally (not real high performance launches) a short weld (1/2") at each corner of the spring pad should be enough yet still be fairly easy to cut through if you decide or need to change it later. Also, as mentioned in my earlier post, too much welding on the axle can warp the axle tube. Short welds with tight U bolts will be sufficient. Ray
What about using these drive shafts that has shock or extension, I used One in my old 1963 Biscayne. And 64 impala because I had hydraulics. If do My other question would be were should I we'll the perches?
The differential ID number is usually on the top of the p***enger side axle tube near the gear housing. They are stamped in, not cast. So far the best I can tell is it's out of a 71, non-posi, with a 3.08 ratio made in the Buffalo plant on the night shift. GN = 3.08 10 bolt (L14/307) C = Buffalo 253 = Day of the year (Sept. 10th) 2 = Night shift Hope this helps you. themole
As said previously, a 10 bolt from a s 10 would be easier and probably cheaper. Brakes and such are still available and you won't have to cut the ears off.
That's back when people had jobs, and some worked 2nd shift 3pm to midnight, or the 3rd shift which is called the graveyard shift, midnight to 8 am.
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