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Technical rear main oil seal installation... where on HAMB is info.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by windsurfer, Jun 4, 2023.

  1. windsurfer
    Joined: Apr 20, 2019
    Posts: 6

    windsurfer

    For a 48 Plymouth 218 engine rope type upper rear main oil seal installation is Sneaky Pete tool the best
     
  2. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,251

    Budget36
    Member

    I’ve never done one with the crank still in, but later will take a pic out of a Motors for what it should look like when done.
    I recall using a razor blade to trim the ends leaving “some distance” exposed, ie not flush.
     
  3. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,603

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

  4. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,251

    Budget36
    Member

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg I must have been thinking of the pan side.
    Here’s what Motors says.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  5. windsurfer
    Joined: Apr 20, 2019
    Posts: 6

    windsurfer



    • Members
    • Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio 45387
    • My Project Cars:1948 Special Deluxe 99% restored after 45 years.

    Posted just now
    For engine 1120804-3 does Felpro B53141 73004 list as the correct rope type rear main upper oil seal for my P-15

    Beside******ing about how hard this is to do please offer any constructive ideas. I have frayed the end of the rope trying to install by pushing.. No parts store has or even heard of a sneaky pete puller. Reviews say they break easily. Wire mesh cable puller appears to be too large for opening. I have loosened the 1st, 2nd and 3rd bearing caps, lubricated the rope with silicone grease and used picks to push in the rope but only goes 1/2 way. Never goes far enough to see anything coming out. Manual useless saying remove flywheel (requiring, transmission , drive shaft removal) to access seal retainer plate .OK to think outside the box


    Thank you. Same as manual info. Crank installed exacerbates install difficulty. 2 friends say from experience it's a******.
     
  6. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,251

    Budget36
    Member

    Who’s******ing?

    As I mentioned, never done one in a vehicle, my understanding is to loosen the main caps and things drop down a scooch in the rear, enough to use the type of tool you were using, but again, no experience
     
  7. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,843

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    I honestly have not done a rope seal since the 70s,
    Just thinking out side of Box & a ideal thought!
    Could you take "1" strain of copper wire out of a
    20 -16 gal wire , spiral wrap around your rope & feed the copper threw crank & main , lubing rope pull in place ?
     
  8. hemihotrod66
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 968

    hemihotrod66
    Member

    I have done rope type seals without removing the crank.... I use to use fine copper wire and tie it to the rope seal and pull it thru while turning the crank... It was a slow process but was always able to get it done.... Then I would leave the ends a little long and use a brass punch to push the rope flush with the block.....There were other tools we called chinese finger locks to pull them in place....
     
    427 sleeper and Budget36 like this.
  9. windsurfer
    Joined: Apr 20, 2019
    Posts: 6

    windsurfer

    no one here is******in' just my homees. I tried weaving a wire into rope end to pull through. Wire still came loose 1/2 way which frayed end. Good ideas and I have tried them.I was cautioned against crank caps removal. Fells like a hang up 1/2 way. which no one else encountered." I'll get 'er done." Larry.
    Persistent I am, Frank
     
  10. When I replaced my rear main on my Olds 371 I was able to replace the rope with a modern two-piece seal. Is that an option for you?

    The one thing I will say is I found that the crank sealing surface was marred by others that replaced the rope seal in the past. When they trimmed the rope with a razor blade they cut into the crank surface (on both sides of the crank) leaving burrs which tore up the rope seal that was in there. I carefully polished the damage using a fine toolmakers stone, removed the burrs and problem solved.

    My point is make sure you check the crank surface (rotate the crank for visual inspection) for this type of damage before you install that new rope. Good luck.
     
    Wanderlust likes this.
  11. chicken
    Joined: Aug 15, 2004
    Posts: 677

    chicken
    Member
    from Kansas

    Yes, they are tough. First "feel" around the upper groove with a narrow feeler gauge, wire, etc to make sure nothing is stuck in there to stop the new seal from coming around. I use small tough wire and tie it to the seal about 1/2" from the end, folding it back so any "tail" doesn't catch. Then I try to shoehorn the seal with a screwdriver while pulling the wire...and turning the crank as I go. If you don't have any help to turn the crank you have to go in small steps. Grease on the seal helps but isn't a cure-all. If the FelPro seal just plain won't go, consider checking to see if "Best" gasket co. offers a seal. They are really a good rope seal and install easier. Edit-they do offer the graphtite seal:

    https://bestgasket.com/rear-main-seals/#chrysler

    Terry
     

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