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Rear mounted rariator

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ALLSTEEL30FORD, Dec 6, 2009.

  1. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,730

    flynbrian48
    Member

    I am, and even easier than looking me up, I'll chime right in!

    I have a rear mounted Dodge Neon rad. laying at about a 10 degree angle under the floor of my roadster. It's in the frame kickup over the rear axle. I added it as the Mustang copper radiator up front just wasn't enough to keep a Caddy 472 cool enough. I got the idea from a Street Rodder feature of an International pickup built with Internationals new medium duty diesel, which used a rear radiator mounted EXACTLY as you show.

    To address some of the concerns mentioned about this:

    Plumbing was done with 1 1/4" copper. Looks way cool, but it was rather expensive. I used tubing, elbows, street L's and couplers from Home Depot. It cost about 220 bucks for everything. The tricky part was indexing the parts and sweating together them on the bench. I wrapped a single turn of 12 ga. copper wire (solid) around the end and soldered that on for a hose retainer. No problems, no leaks.

    No problem filling and purging the air. Since the front and rear radiators are plumbed in series, I simply filled the rear one first by pouring 50/50 mix into the flex hose fitted to the rear radiators upper inlet. When coolant started running out of the lower hose, I hooked everything up, then filled the block thru the thermostat housing, then filled the front radiator. Let the it run untill the stat opened, and then topped the front radiator off with about another half gallon.

    Intially I didn't have enough air space between the floor and radiator for airflow, but I solved that by cutting out the floor panel (it's right behind the seats), made a spacer of 2x2's and a new plywood floor on that. Now, air moves thru the radiator up towards the floor, and can spill over the frame rails and out some holes cut in the wheel wells behind the )fenderless) rear tires. It never gets over 190 now. I'm going to add two small trap doors in the plywood which can be propped open for "heaters". The car is a little quieter with the wood floor too.

    I've got a 14" elec. fan on the rear rad., using the same relay/temp sensor as the front fan, and it works fine. Together the fans draw about 15 amps. There's more room between the center section and the radiator than the photo suggests, it's almost 3". I have bump stops an inch over the axle tubes, and it's never bottomed on them, so I have plenty of safety margin. Don't want a radiator to be the bump stop...

    Running a rear radiator isn't "stupid" as somebody suggested, you just have to think outside the box a little. Your truck project looks cool, nice job!

    Brian
     
  2. ShakeyPuddin55
    Joined: Dec 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,906

    ShakeyPuddin55
    Member

    You can use one of these for the fill point:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Thanks; I like the remote radiator fill from Moroso.
     

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