Rear panhard bar ?

Heres the setup 32 frame, 36 split bones, flattened 40 crossmember,40 spring, flathead powered 29sedan, do I need a rear panhard bar...Thanks Pat.

 

Yes and no. Ford didn't run one until the mid 40's.

We built the modified without one but the driveshaft fits tightly in the driveshaft tunnel. When we would throw the thing into the corners it would jus barely hit. It would move less than an inch. We put a panhard bar on and it doesn't hit anymore.

I would say it's all in how you plan to use your car and how much clearance you have.
Clark

 

I think I'm gonna make one for the beater.

 

Clark it's hard to say at this point still gathering parts and in the planning stage. Btw were you one of the guys driving around the trucks with the tops cut off at the 97 goodguys in penn. the panel truck I built for my dad won that show.

 

Whats up Pete the rear end moving around on your T. Pat.

 

Could have been me. There's not that many trucks with the roof cut off. I've had the 48 since 89 and cut the top off as soon as I got it.
Clark

 

Big burnouts, broken leaf and 31" tall bias plies....yeah, it moves around a bit.

 

Those trucks are badass along with the 32 and the rest of your stuff.

 

Pete is that flatty stock, What ya got done to it. Pat.

 

What kind of front suspension do you have?

You can get by without a panhard, but the car will handle better with one.

If you're running a transverse spring up front, you'll need a sway bar in the back.
Otherwise there will be some serious leaning going on in the corners.
Rear sway bars are sufficient for similarly sprung roadsters and your car - I'm guessing it's a highboy - isn't too much heavier and a sway bar in the rear only should do it.

 

9c The front end consists of ce axle, hot rods and horsepower flat crossmember, mono front spring, split drilled and filled 32 bones, adjustable spring perches and a panhard bar. pat

 

Offy 425 heads, Fenton 2x2 intake, adj valvetrain and an unknown cam that lumps around pretty good. With the 5 speed and 4.11 gears, it rocks and gets better mileage than both my dailey drivers!

 

BTTT for more review.

 

to a cerain extent this depends on how well your rear arms triangulate. Unsplit bones and severely triangulated ladders will obviously help the rear center more than parallel 4 bars or split bones...

 

Agreed....the more you can triangulate the split bones, the less of an issue you'll have.

 

Sorry, I have to disagree with that.
I might help with the side to side movement itself, but the effect on the straight line stabillity will be worse.

A set of Split Bones or a equal length 4 Bars (parralel or close to it), will keep the wheels parralel to the centre line of the Frame, even if the Rear deflects a bit from side to side.
A uncut 'Bone or bars that have their pivot points close to the Centre line will make the Rear end rotate around that point when it deflects side to side, which gives Rear Steer.

 

Just when we thought we had it figured out, a monkey wrench gets thrown into the rearend....Damn