Rear suspension picture thread

Studhud,



Slick bar mount...

 

I'm not bashing here....but you need to take another look at your panhard and fix it prior to hitting a big bump and shearing those hiems off...for that application you'll be putting the heims in a bind when they hit their limits and snapping the yolk off the ball with a quickness...I'm sure it's just in mock up mode by judging by the square tube just tacked in place....easy to change at this point. Look at a speedway cataloge I believe they have a photo of one installed onna bare frame...

 

Never noticed that, but I think he's right, the heim joint orientation should be vertical to the ground, not horizontal like that.

 

my 34 coupe

 

Here's a few we have recently done. IRS, 2 link & 3 link.

Rick Erickson of Extreme Kustoms


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Not my Z on this frame:



Again, not my Z, three link with Dana 44:







International Harvester Panel truck with 9", torque arm and coil overs:



47-53 Chevy truck build for the Dynacorn Corp, Dana 60 and coil overs:





1955 Chevy with narrow Dana 60, 33" tall tires, Watts link, torque arm and coil overs:





1957 Corvette kit car with narrowed late C4 gear:





Check out the whole album!

http://s206.photobucket.com/home/ELpolacko/allalbums

 

Damn polacko have you been busy or what??? Tell me more guys than just yourself did all that work.

Nice stuff man
Dave Hitch

 

really nice stuff as usual Steve.
keep up the good work!

 

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this setup with the dead perch on the rear works ok to eliminate side movement and eliminates requiring a panhard?nice work too.really like the watts link on the 55 chev build.

 

This care has been driven a ton in the last few years. The dead perch works seamlessly. If you never saw that picture and went for a ride in that car you would never guess.

These are taken over a few years. I do have employees, but I did do quite a bit on these.

 

Well, here's mine, finally more or less done. On the rear of my 26 RPU. for more pics see my build thread.

 

Great thread, back to the top

Keep the pics coming

L

 

I'm more of a banjo transverse spring guy, but here is a chassis i did for a customer. 4 link with panhard bar and coil overs.

 

I see every one is running leafspring or coil over. I'm trying to build in sixties style, and don't whant to use leafspring. Did they use coil over back then? when were they introduced? Is there anyone running spiral spring with the damper on the side in their hot rod?

 

I'll play along.... Not anything to out of the box, Tri-angulated 4 bar with TCI All American coil-overs and a Dart 8 3/4 rear end with 3:91 gears. Rides and drives great.

 

Here's the rear suspension in my '32 Chevy. Sway bar to follow and some day I'll be able to afford some Bilstein coilovers.

 

Studhud,Where did you get those spring cups/holders and brackets?

 

My '35 phaeton, local GM (Holden F/E, similar to Corvair?) and 420 Jag IRS.

 

One of these days I''ll put some paint on.

 

Here is my 55 Caddy project finally able to roll on its own

And for those wondering, yes the Dead Trunk Monkey is still untouched? unmolested from its place from when I bought my car 2 years ago

 

Mocking up a narrowed Jag in a '59 Hillman Husky.

 

An idea for a modified DeDion axle:

The Jag/Salisbury/Dana centre isn't shown here. The connections at the tops of the small A-arm-like links are steering ball-joints. In bump motion the axle rotates about an axis that runs through the ball-joints (this requires the inboard brakes lest the moment arm become too short). The arms define a roll centre a short distance above the road. The set-up allows cornering and launch geometries to be determined independently without one compromising the other. The axle can be constructed out of the ends of a pair of semi-trailing arms and a length of suitable tubing.

 

48 tudor, 58" 9" out of a bronco. air bags and ladder bars

 

what is the advantage of a torque arm, over a ladder bar, or four link setup?

 

Here's my ladder bar setup on my 60 Pontiac, not an easy thing to do on an X frame car but it worked out.


Sorry for crappy pics

 

Nice work. I understand the square tubes are temporary. On the upper shock tube mount, I would weld in a tube to span across the tube width so when the shock mount bolt is tightened, it doesn't collapse the tube, thus negating it strength.

 

I didn't read all the pages but I will say I don't like triangulated links, as in post #7...
If the upper links are close together at the axle, and further apart at the front, and let's say they are horizontal....
Then when the axle goes up or down the bars will try to pull the axle forward... or stress the bar mounting points... I don't think that's a good thing.
I'd rather see traditional longitudinal front to back ladder bars, and a panhard bar.

Feel free to correct me if you disagree.

 

A torque arm accomplishes the same thing as ladder bars in preventing rear end rotation. It also takes up less space in an already cramped space. It does need to be installed with the two pivot point link at the front like Elpolacko installs.

 

There's a bunch of different possible front-end attachments for a torque arm, but the key here is:

1) the lower links provide fore-aft location of the axle and, in combination with the panhard or Watts, define the roll behavior

2) the torque arm restrains axle rotation so the front mount must restrain vertical motion of the arm

3) the front of the arm needs to have some freedom laterally and fore-aft.

OE GM torque-arm applications (Monza/Vega/third-gen-and-later Camaros) use a rubber, well, male-female-sort of arrangement that lets the arm move in and out and rotate and a little bit of lateral motion but not up and down.