Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

@REBEL 43. Label needed above.


Phil

 

Wow, You got a sticker for your fuse box!...
I got this, even hard to figure out when you staring at it...upside down.

I used "hot rod wires" ... no sticker, no wiring diagram...
I'll try Rebel Next time!

 

Thanks to Jeremy at Rebel Wire in the last few weeks, I rescued an old cannibalized 9+3 fuse box I bought at the Syracuse Nats years ago. By the time I had a lot of wire run, I was too much into it to just get a new box. Nevertheless Jeremy helped me get my hot rod wired. Great fellow. Only a few things left, and he already helped me with those.

 

I used their motor too (and agree that the motor is a good one at a good price), with the Ron Francis switchhttps://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WS%2D5 , but couldn't figure out how to get it to Park. Did you get yours to park?

 

What sort of a relay do I need for my electric fan? And wire it into one of the 2 wires of the +3 that is not the constant hot right?

 

@REBEL43, fan relay help needed above. Thanks.

Phil

 

I know I need this lil guy on the left, but what about the one on the right that hooks to the ignition?
80s Bronco steering column

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That is the ignition switch.

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How does that work on the wiring kit?

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If I was working on this, first I would score a Ford ignition switch plug off a junk harness. Find the fattest wire going in and assume that that is the hot lead from the battery. With a multimeter hook one lead to this wire and probe the other ones with the switch in the IGN position and see which ones light up and label them. Then with the switch in the ACC position, see which ones light up. The ones that don't come on in the ACC position should go to the ignition circuit - the coil and gauges and whatever you deem not worthy of power when you are at the submarine races. The one that lights up in the START position obviously goes to the starter. Wire accordingly.

 

I did my own wiring for the first time....

 

Found it

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In this case, I would guess that the yellow leads are the hot battery source since they are fat and there are two of them. I could be wrong but keep testing until you figure it out. Set the meter on the ohm setting since you are testing for continuity. It really isn't that hard to do. Have fun.

 

The typical Ford colors around that year are: both yellows need to be hot (power into the switch), the black/green comes out as a keyed hot (acc) to feed a row of fuses, and the gray/yellow is a keyed hot (ign) to feed fuses. Red/blue is normally the start wire (just hot in start), the red/green is normally the coil wire (hot in run and start). Definitely bench test it to be sure, but maybe that will help out.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

I got him! Frank knows he can call me whenever he needs something

 

I guessed right on the yellow!

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I am using a Rebel kit and am having an issue. I didn't want to call on a Friday night so thought I would ask here to see if anyone had any ideas before I try and call Jeremy next week.

I am having an issue with blowing fuses on my signal light circuit. I am using a generic 7 wire switch. When I turn on the signal lights the left turn signal works fine but as soon as I switch to the right turn signal it flashes once and blows a fuse. I have unplugged both the front and rear lights and it still blows the fuse as soon as I turn to the switch to the right signal light. I thought it might be the switch as it was an old one so I bought a new switch and am still having the same problem. Any ideas what might be wrong or what I should check next? Everything else seems to be working fine.

 

Power runs to the switch. When the right side switch is turned on, fuse blows. Sounds like a short between switch and right side bulb.
I would start at the right turn light connections and work back toward the switch.

Phil

 

Without turning on the turn signal, try stepping on the brakes. Does it blow a fuse? If it does, the problem is in the right rear wire. If not, it is in the right front wire.

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Thanks guys. I pulled the dash, looked at all the wires, took all the connectors apart and checked all my grounds. I didn't see anything that was an obvious sign of a short or a bad ground. Once I got it all back together it is now working. I hope it was just a loose connector and I didn't just jostle a bad wire or connection somewhere that is going to cause me to have to go through all this again.

 

Love this thread. I am going to be rewiring my 60 Olds wagon soon and lots of great tips in here. I already bought a harness, but the fuse block is too big to mount in the stock location. Giving serious consideration to the Rebel 9+3 instead. Will that horn relay be heavy duty enough for those factory hi-low horns, or do I need to wire in the big old stock relay?

 

It handles the big old horns in my '51 Ford just fine.

 

@REBEL43. Who is a current Rebel rep for alliance members on the H.A.M.B?


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Call and ask for Jeremy.

 

Called Jeremy and he answered immediately. Discussed the need for my project and made a purchase. Thanks to all.


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It's a 30/40 amp relay, should be good. 30 amp continuous/40 intermittent

 

Good talking to you earlier. I get behind on the forums sometimes (all times, haha) I'm always building kits and doing tech. Answering questions on facebook right now. If you guys need something and I don't answer here, just call me at 423-263-5399 or email at rebel43jb@comcast.net
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

Thanks man, I appreciate you guys that answer some of this stuff from your experience. I'll take all the help I can get, haha

 

I wired my 34 with a Rebel kit , was my first time wiring a car from scratch and I found it quite straight forward. Only problem I have is with my ignition light, the charging system is working ok but my light doesn’t go out. I was using a led and was told that I should use a normal bulb so I changed it and now it won,t light ??? I,m using one of those small Denso alternators.