My 58 Fairlane has a 332 FE interceptor that I think just imploded. Sounds like someone threw a bag of rocks in it when I went to start it. So now the question is should I rebuild the motor or just buy an engine/ ****** combo and drop it in? I found a 390/C4 combo from a 70's pickup for $675. I am guessing I would be looking at around 1200 for a quality rebuild. Just need some input because I really want to get it back on the road ASAP!! The longer it sits the better chance it has of being a stereotypical cl***ified ad. Any insight would be greatly appreciated
Depends on your finances and what you want. Do you see yourself staying with the car? If so, do it right or you will regret it. If not, throw any v8 in it and move on...
Well my finances are on par with most everyone else i reckon. Money will always be tight for me. But I will keep the car for the foreseeable future. I just cant stand seeing it sit. If I find a quality rebuild kit and buy it myself what would I be looking at for labor cost for the actual rebuild. Maybe I can break the cost up that way.
$1200 to rebuild a 332? Good luck. Maybe an overhaul. The 390 idea isn't a bad one but a '70s pickup engine may disapoint you. If it was up to me I would take the 332 apart and see just what it needs before you jump to conclusions. If the crank is beyond repair it will be a hard one to replace, not many out there.
if that original motor is of no great history than step up to that 390/c4 that would drive out so much better
I have never taken heads off of a motor, never really worked on a motor at all to be honest. But its not 110 here today and I have time so I might go see what I can get done. When I was driving it home from work one afternoon it started making a tapping sound. The next day when I went to start it it sounded like something had sheered off and was loose in the motor. I havnt messed with it since. Been trying to sell off other **** I have to fund the rebuild.
How much more would I be looking at. It will sit for a while if it costs more than $1500. That is a ****load of money to me!
Ouch. I really was way off. Well maybe I was jumping to conclusions and it doesnt need a rebuild. Maybe it just needs a nice, free hug. Dammit. I am definitely getting into it today then.
We were ALL there at some point. If it's as bad as you make it sound you can't break it. Tear it apart, keep the parts seperate, label, etc. Maybe you will learn something. Hope it's not real ugly, no one likes to spend $$ when they don't have it.
Im not to worried about pulling it apart. I have a motors manual and am pretty mechanically inclined so I have no problem jumping right it. I will definitely learn a lot doing it also. I just live in a really small apartment and my wife isnt to thrilled when I get my "workbench" setup on the kitchen counter. Plus I get the evil eye from all my hipster neighbors while I work on my 58 next to there prius or kia or whatever. I will post pics when I get it apart so you guys might be able to give me a little more insight to what I'm looking at. Thanks for all the replies
Personally, if it were me, I would put the 390 in it. Its a much better engine. If its a good running engine you would be on the road faster and cheaper. You could keep the ole 332 and rebuild it little by little as the money comes along. A 332 will have some parts that will be hard to find.It might be a mechanical cam engine if its real early and could have some good hot rod parts on it like machined combustion chambers and adjustable rocker arms.
I am actually leaning towards a 390 also because of the availability of parts and performance options. If I were to put in a 390 would the motor mounts need to be changed or fabbed? With a different trans would I need the driveshaft lengthened/shortened also? mctim64 - Why would a 70's pickup motor disappoint me?
70s pick up or car engines are low compression smoggers that are generally underpowered compared to their 60s equivalent. A 390 out of say a 68/69 will have much more power than a 74. The biggest difference being compression and cam specs.
The 390 should pretty much be a drop in. I think that at this time your living situation dictates swapping engines and being done with it. That should be a weekend project if you work it right and you can be driving it the next week. What ever you do keep the car looking like you are actually driving it. Keep it washed and clean so it doesn't look like it is sitting without being driven. Maybe even swap parking spaces by pushing it if the apartment doesn't have ***igned parking.
The early FE like your 332 had 2 bolt motor mounts and the later 390 had 3 bolt. If you get the 390 motor mounts with it I think you can use them but not positive.Maybe meangene427 could tell you for sure. Or go to;http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/ and find out for sure there. I would keep the original trans and it should be a bolt in if you get the motor mount worked out.
You just have to keep your eyes open and and ask around. I got this after it did not sell on EBAY. 1100 dollars as shown. An engine factory rebuild. Everything was new. I sold the intake, carb and distributor for about 600 bucks. It's a 66 truck 352. Not a real desirable engine like a 390 but it will still push my 56 Ford 2dr down the road at 70 MPH or more if necessary. It looks a little different now but it's still a 500 dollar factory rebuilt engine to me. The original builder p***ed away. This engine came in a 52K mile Monte Carlo that was T boned. The lady was very meticulous about it's care. I paid 400 for the wreck and sold the rally wheels for 200. and the front clip for 200. There are several ways to skin a cat besides spending big bucks. In the early 60s it was more common to buy a donor car to get a good engine for our hotrods than to spend big bucks to rebuild one.
It could also be an FMX. Check to make sure that it isn't just something in the valve train or the starter drive making the noise. If the 332 is bad, the 390 would get you back on the road fastest. Any 390 should have equal or more power than the 332. Won't a 390 be the same block as the 332? The motor mounts from the 332 should bolt on and the transmission should also bolt up so no drive train changes should be needed. Look at the exhaust. If the 332 exhaust manifolds fit there should be no problem. If you change transmissions, you could run into drive shaft differences from splines in the tail shaft, universal joints or length so check that first.
Ditto ... Go with finding a donor car/truck for cheap. There should be a lot of old Ford trucks out there with FE's in them.
I'm a big believer in fixing something the first time. I'd rebuild rather then buying used. At least it's piece of mind. Buying used, you don't know what you're getting. Fix it once and it's over.
Find a good used engine...keep the 352 and tear it apart ti find the problem. If you want to you can always rebuild it and re-install it when you have the funds available...
I don't want to start an argument but as said before if it was me I would go through the 332. That being said, with your living situation the swap may be best. An early '70s 390 will bolt in, there is a 2 bolt motor mount on the early motors (332) and a 4 bolt mount on the later ones. (390 from the 70s) you can put the 390 in place of the 332 but not the other way around. If you do the swap use your trans., flex plate and starter. The '70s 390, if stock used a different pin hight on the pistons than did the earlier ones. This not only gave a lower comp. ratio but not a very good quench area. The FE of the '70s was a bit under powered. The 332 of 1958 although less CI was a high torque 300 hp engine and would rev. very well with only a 3.3" stroke. The 3.3" stroke makes for a tough crank to replace so if you were to rebuild it would be cheeper to make it a 352, ***uming your crank needs to be replaced, plenty of cranks for those and the pistons is the only other change. When it's all said and done it's your choice. Cheers!
332 had 3.3 inch stroke. 1958 2V rated 240 hp, 4V rated 265 hp, 360 lbs-ft torque 1958 352 rated at 300 hp, 395 lbs-ft torque '70-'71 truck 390 (2V) rated 255 hp, 376 lbs-ft torque '72- '75 truck 390 (2V) rated 201 hp, 376 lbs-ft torque Source: Ultimate American V-8 Engine Data Book
I will absolutely hang on to the 332 and go through it myself as time and money allow but it looks like a swap is my short term answer. I have found a few 390's on CL for good prices so I can make it happen pretty quick. Thanks for all the replies. I will still post pics of the 332 when I get the heads off just to see whats up
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