I have a 1939 Ford Coupe - original steering box and column. Car has a 327 Chevy installed in the mid 1960's and I want to keep the car period correct. Currently have 15x6 F-100 steel rims with 75 series radial tires. Original chassis - except Muncie 4 speed and Chevy 327 - so weight on front end should be about the same as stock. Front end on jack stands - easy to operate. when you drive it - much harder to steer vs my other 1939 Ford Coupe with a 351-W and vega box on a straight axle. Really think the box needs rebuilt - where is best source of parts and any helpful tips would be appreciated. I want to keep the original box and banjo wheel and adapt the stock light switch and horn to 12 v. versus a vega box and a GM type aftermarket column.
Get the Vern Tardel book on rebuilding early Ford steering boxes. lots of good info for rebuilding the box. yu should be able to get all the parts to rebuild from the Early Ford Store or Dennis Carpenter. You can get Verns book from The Rodders Journal website. Thats where i got mine. Ill be rebuilding mine this summer, also a 39 but with a 283 and the stock 3 speed.
ZIP over to www.fordbarn.com and post your inquiry ONLY about rebuilding the steering box. Lots of helpful info. there. Don't mention all that's already been changed.
When I rebuilt mine I think I got my parts from Mac's. Never had the book but they are pretty simple to figure out. I did have an old Motor's manual that said how to adjust it afterwards. Biggest issue with mine was the rolling gear on the sector shaft had seized onto the pin, once I got that freed up it made a ton of difference when I was thru. Felt like I had added power steering it was so easy to steer.
I rebuilt 2 early boxes, biggest lesson I learned was this. Do not pack with grease until you have the correct number of paper shims installed and have back lash set. Man what a greasy mess I made! Mine turned out great. I bought my parts From Mac's. Have fun!
The last one I rebuilt it seemed I needed extra shim gaskets on the end place to get tolerances correct. Then at a later date someone informed me that some repro worms ar .060 approx too long and need shortening . Has any one found this ?
If the worm is too long how would you shorten it?? You can not grind the end down since the taper sitting in it's bearing and races determine the installed overall length. Make sure the race is installed all the way into the housing. and you are using the correct bearing and race combination.
I am only using someone else's theory. I assembled and my box as is with what seemed like more than normal amount of shims. But it performs perfect.
Easy steering with the weight off of it? I would check the ball bearings on the king pins. They could be rusty, dry, or flat spotted from sitting.
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