Howdy. It looks like I'm in for a rebuild for my Dodge Matador 361. I was on a highway, when I saw the temp gauge getting high, then started seeing smoke. Pulled into a gas station within 30 seconds, shut her down, coasted into a parking spot, and then proceeded to put out the fire that started on the right side of the engine. The engine had dumped all of the coolant due to a freeze plug somehow falling out. Yeah, don't ask. So, my shop replaced that, the burnt plugs and wires, exhaust manifold gaskets, etc., and luckily it fired back up and ran fine. The next time I drove it, I heard a bit of lifter tick from that right bank. It was fairly faint, so I drove it a couple more times locally while we waited for the new lifter. I drive it like an old man - it’s a stock cruiser. After maybe the 4th time driving it with the lifter tick, I heard the sound you never want to hear - a rod knock. I shut the engine off immediately and towed it home. So, I’m assuming the rod/bearing failed from the heat it endured during the overheating/engine fire. The engine was fully rebuilt (2nd overbore) by a quality engine shop (E&R) in the Chicago burbs back in the 90's. It probably had only about 10k miles since. So, I doubt it had to do with normal wear or age. It was full of recently changed oil when this happened, and I verified good level after the fire. So, that being said, another full rebuild or something close to it is in my future. Anybody have any recent experience with parts availability for the old 361 wedge? Rebuild cost range? I’m in the San Francisco bay area. Rates are around $150/hr. I may have a very experienced old timer mechanic that I could get for $100/hr and do at least the R&R in my garage. Seeing that my local machine shops are expensive, too, maybe it would pay to crate and ship it to a good Mopar shop somewhere? Any input or referrals, local or otherwise greatly appreciated. I could even have the car towed to Sacramento, San Jose, etc. Whatever makes sense.
When I read that you had a thrown rod, I thought the engine had made it's own large, irregularly shaped freeze plug, like this: Some people have repaired that kind of failure, but it is a dying art. Sounds like you have "wiped a bearing" rather than thrown a rod. A lot easier repair, though still feel your pain. Cheers, Harv
I know of three shops in your area-sort of. 1) San Leandro-AL HUBBARD'S machine shop on Meekland Ave. (Races Model T's and is an old school machine shop) 2) JOE'S ENGINE SHOP in Concord, Ca (had some Packard engines being worked on when I went in to have work done on my Y block manifolds) 3) Tim McMaster who has a shop-if I remember right he is near Fresno or Bakersfield. Generally works on Y blocks but works on all engines and races Y blocks. Can't help with $ or availability but they at least know the engine you are working on Mike.
Unless you have an emotional attachment to the 361 you might consider a later B engine simply for availability. It seems that there are still plenty of 400 B floating around, I even have a truck take-out on the pallet rack and a runner in an old truck out back. Get some rebuild costs then start shopping places like craigslist.
Yank it out Tear it down. Have a shop check the crank and the offending rod. Put it back together. Had a low mile rebuilt ford puke a rod out the bottom. crank, rod and piston replaced. Put it back together and drove the snot out of it.
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