The caps are pretty much bullet proof. I use some worn out gl*** beads to gl*** bead the caps inside and out. More of a dust than gl*** beads. it gets rid of the oxidation inside. After that, the color can be brought back with a dusting of clear. Even a filthy faded flea market cap can be cleaned up cosmetically. I have a couple of NOS caps that I have stashed. I've heard that the highrollers pay stupid money for NOS caps.
Hi, I had the same distributor with the Pertronix Kit,Ran it for 3+ Years With absolutely no issues whatsoever if I remember Correctly,the Pertronix # PERTRONIX ML-187A (First Generation kit) I believe I ran solid core wires with the (Important) recommended Ignition Coil and ran perfect! (call their tech line for advise) It is the Pertronix II that requires the special core wires but Either way,Pertronix makes a wire set (Universal in the 7mm) that works just fine with their kits. Either one of the 2 Kits will work fine. The pertronix II has a hotter spark and a protection feature against "Accidentally" leaving the ignition on the "on" position (over current protection) and offers 4 times better performance than the Original Ignitor. I had the Original Ignitor and never had any trouble vs. setting up points,finding the points and condensers etc. By the time you purchase points and condenser you are close to the 100 bucks or so the kit will cost you (Original Pertronix). The cool thing is that you can save the point sand condenser in the glove box and if ever in need,pop them back in to get you home , there is no modification of the distributor housing. JW
I just keep an eye out for distributors. of all the caps i have none really look like they got used... they have more corrosion from sitting in a damp cardboard box than any actual use.... little rub down with WD40 and my caps look new. GMC Bubba said the carbon wires would wear out not the caps. didn't know the 1st gen unit didn't require resistor wire. good to know. I already have everything to do the points and condenser route, or the MSD box. so no cost there....
I just ran standard parts store black wires with mine with NGK plugs. Works great. I heard of the Chrysler electronic conversion but haven't seen any details. If someone can point out a how "how to" that'd be great. As a Mopar guy I love the Chrysler electric dizzy, especially when using a GM HEI brain module: http://waywardgarage.com/3132/big-weekend-with-improvements-and-issues-for-my-valiant/ As far as a dizzy for putt-putt 283, I think a restored YC-310 would be fine without any whizzbang electronics. I used a stock single point dizzy in a 283 for years and had zero problems so a stock YC 310 would definitely be a step up. Posted using my dang ol' telephonamajig...
7MM Stock-Look Plug Wires Now you can get a "stock-look" spark plug wire, that performs! We've designed these wires with the same core that we use in our 8mm wire. The only real difference is the 7mm flat black silicone jacket that hides its performance potential from the naked eye. Get the best of both worlds with "state-of-the-art performance and a stock look." These wires will fit most original wire looms. Select a custom tailored set for a great out of the box fit or a universal kit to match your unique engine and wire loom configuration. Features Two current paths for reliability and redundancy. Primary path: Spiral wound stainless steel alloy. Secondary path: Carbon impregnated fibergl*** center core. 7mm Silicone jacket to resist high temperatures, moisture, oil and chemicals. EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Methylene) rubber inner insulation for superior heat resistance and prevention of arcing and voltage leaks. Fibergl*** reinforcing braid for added strength and flexibility. Lifetime Warranty. Flame-Thrower "Stock Look" 7mm Universal Wire Sets Universal 7mm Stock-Look spark plug wire kits featuring 90° or straight spark plug boots. Each universal set includes terminals to fit both male and female terminal distributor caps. If you are using the Pertronix kit , The 8mm and 7mm wires are identical as far as core, the only difference is the density of the Sleeve,for a street and strip car you will be ok .
Pretty straight forward, i've only taken one apart and that was for a flathead conversion, every other one i've had was fine, so i ran it One unless it uses the special rev-pol coil, dont forget there needs to be a wire to both sets of points too the rev-pol coiled units didnt have one Just a sec, i think i posted it on here I was going to set mine to a early vette full centrifical spec, but it was already within a degree or 2 according to my allen distributer machine Plug wire wise, i'm going packard 440, if i understand it right, it shouldnt have radio interference because i have resistor plugs(pretty common). I dont think msd boxes like them tho. I can also add i did have issues with carbon core wires breaking down on one and i didnt think about why, ofcourse i wrecked that car before it had too much ignition issues
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...llory-yc-dual-pts-found.929110/#post-10470115 Here is the standard part# for points, you should scribble both numbers on a note and stick them in your glove box just incase. Mallory points are also avalible, but when i had some overvoltage issues a few years back i found they lasted about 1/2 as long so i wont run them As for coil, gmcbubba would say bosch blue coil, i believe it is a vw bug part #
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