looking good , seeing the SFI book on the table reminded me I have to get my updated one .. I like the use of the dutch fastening , those are pretty strong , its the way we locate the Balancer/pulley on ls motors since its only held on with a bolt and has no key , on several industrial sheive set ups we use this method too . if it can handle the torque of a 6' dia scavanger fan ( squirrel cage ) I am sure it will handle the brakes , I am suprised he didn't put 5 in there for the 1.5 rule ( old safety rule, IE if 3 will do multiply by 1.5 and make it so )
I stopped by the chassis shop after work. Jim was on the mill working on the adaptor plate. All the mounting and dowel holes are done. The starter holes have been tapped. He is seen here cutting the starter hole. A crank hole is next. There will by more material removed later to get it mounted into the frame. there will be notches were it will sit on the main frame rails I picked up the doors and trunk while i was there. I get to make lexan windows this weekend. Doesnt that sound like fun.
Wow, great thread !! keep it coming ! Yes I agree Cassandra is just a sweetheart, she is so nice.. and darn cute too !! She talks to ya, like you've been friends forever. She is the berries !!
Since nobody else got nothing, that is a hot little number, and that goes for the girl too! Did she bring here own vintage-looking Hurst shifter dress, or does all true fans have one hidden in the closet for such an event?
I got lucky with the front and rear windows today. Both were broken in the crash. The front window is pressed into the frame with a sticky rubber seal. To get it out i first taped the glass to help hold it together. A rubber mallet was used to tap the frame off. It worked great. i wore leather welding gloves just in case it broke. I was able to use it as a pattern for the lexan. The rear has a channel pressed on it. This channel is a part of the window regulator. my car was a rumble seat car. they came with a roll down rear window so the passengers in the back could talk to those in the front. I'm keeping the roll down window for air flow reasons during street driving. the dual cowl vents; roll down window and the swing out windshield work great on a hot day. the rear window was taped also and i was able to get it off in one piece. I cut out the new lexan on the band saw. then filed the edges smooth. There is a green protective film on the front and white on the rear. I will leave this on so they dont get scratched. I will pull it off after the car is painted. if anyone has a extra melt down sticker i would like to purchase it.
I plan on putting the windshield on my offerings to the gods of speed wall i have in the shop. I will remove all of the tape first. I picked up a pair of drag week stickers this past year. I plan on putting these badges of honor on the new windshield. I just need to change the year.
Ditto ??? on the dress... is that a custom item or can they be purchased? I know a few models that would look fantastic in one! Oh, and nice job on the car, too! Gary
go to quickchickdesigns.com i dont know if she sells them. she does make her own outfits. she said that she brought six of them that weekend. i have seen several of them and they all look great. a very talented girl.
She is a great girl whenever we see her she always takes time to hang out with us and take a pic with my boy. there are some pics in my album section of my profile page...
Sure sounds like she is carrying some of Linda Vaughns' style into the future. Was not on-scene back in the day, but saw her (Linda) at a few CHRR's, and at the Bako Doubletree, just as has been said; treats ya like you been part of her circle all along. Great to hear that respect is still alive and well.
They got the body on to check the fit. The rear will go up a inch the front down a inch. The front hoop at the fire wall will be moved forward a inch. The bars were welded a little more to help hold it all together.
I checked out the midplate. It fit the block as planned. Once its in the frame it will be trimmed down.
I was playing with the speed calulator. Im going with 3.73 gears. It will help achieve the mph i want. Im running 31.5 tall tires.
I like coming home and finding parts on the door step. The convertor showed up today. Frank lupo at dynamic convertor made this for me. I ran his products in the 65 dodge. He used it as a product developement car. Bruno/ lencos were fairly new then. Let alone one on nitro. Several design changes took place to make a unit that could withstand the kind of punishment we were giving out. Now days several companies can make a convertor for this kind of application. Im a loyal customer so it was a easy call dialling up frank. You can see a few things in these pics. The anti balloon plates really stand out front and rear. The unit has a billet front cover, diodes, chromoly hub and a few other extreme duty parts. all packed into a nine inch package. Being a street car primarily extra care was taken to build this for maximium efficience. They may all look similiar from the outside but you get what you pay for on the inside.
Things are on a roll today. Just received these pics from mike the polisher. The front wheels are done I'm picking them up before work tomorro. The guy is amazing. My friend don francis offered to part with these knowing they would go to a good home. They were once on the hawiian mini charger.
I had to drop off a cylinder head today so i snapped a few photos. Most of what you see is welded. The chassis will be flipped over to do the rest. Jim explained all the angles of the tubing as to why its done the way it is. The front hoop has the body mounts welded in. The halo bar was bent upward then welded. The funny car cage will match the upward bends. Its up as high as possible for helmet clearance. The a- pillar bars are bent in a way to provide maximum strength. If they were straight up to match the a-pillar they would be weak. The midplate had a lot of material removed. It will soon be fitted in the chassis. The body goes back on tomorro for some tube fitting around the front of the a-pillar. The rear of the car is next week. I will be able to take the body to the body shop as soon as the rest of the body mounts are on. While jim has been doing his thing i have been doing mine. The trunks inner skin has been removed. I have been ordering alot of parts so things dont stall out due to not having what i need. The front tires were mounted last friday. The rings showed up from hot heads so i can start to fit them. Its been three months and one day since the crash. I lost one month while i got back on my feet. I think everything is on track for the short time i have into this.
Nice job on the chassis. Was it like that before? Gary Never mind... I just started re-reading your thread and got my answer. Duh.
It wont be too bad getting in the car. Im keeping the suicide doors that should help. We are also going to use a mark williams steering shaft thats removable with the wheel attatched. More on that in the future. There is alot more cage to put in. Im willing to climb over it all if it helps me walk away from a crash. We are going all out on this. Thanks to everyone for all the supportive comments. This project takes alot of energy to go at this pace. It helps keep me going.
I was there with my son and saw it happen. I was very surprised more cars did not have the same fate as you that day. It was a huge bummer it happened but you are ok and the cars always come back bigger and better!!!!
I bought a mag timing cover for the car thinking it would work with my marine block. I knew the water passage holes were different between pass car and marine blocks. Im running the water out from the rear of the head so i thought it wouldnt matter. i was going to block them off anyway. I was wrong. The bolt holes and dowel pins are located differently . I could have redrilled everything but it would have been a pain. also modifying a rare mag cover was not something i wanted to do. The marine blocks never had the aftermarket parts that the passenger car engines had. I called bob at hot heads to see if there were any issues to be concerned about if i chose to redrill the block and cover. Bob informed me it was my lucky day. Some years ago a racer needed the same cover. the racer was willing to have one made. One was made along with a spare. Guess who now has the only other cover made. This solves a huge problem i had. For those not needing the fuel pump drive built into the cover hot heads has both the passenger car and marine style covers in stock. They also come with a stainless steel adjustable timing pointer. Hot heads has the largest selection of hemi parts by far. i have been able to get the industrial /marine blocks cheaper than the pass car blocks at swap meets. its not common knowledge that hot heads makes the parts needed to make these blocks work. look for the timing cover bolt at the twelve o'clock position. the mag cover will go on the shelf. if i end up with a passenger car block in the car someday i will have what i need. These parts are hard to come by and may not be immediately available in a emergency. The pics show the difference in the bolt patterns.
neat! Would you mind posting a picture of your intake, I'd like to see what the O ring groove looks like. Mostly how the corners are radiused (or not)
Where you get the o ring material they should have the specs on for wide and how deep the groove should be. Off hand without checking i want to say the material is .125 and the groove is around .135
thanks! 1/8" O ring is a -2xx size, the groove is probably .188 wide and .111 deep. like we use on the underwater robots. But I do those grooves with a lathe...no corners, since they are on a plug that fits into a tube.
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