rebuilding after the crash

Lots of questions so here's some answers. Stage 15 keith black dry sleeve water block.
Fast xfi-2 computer
Four 210 pound injectors in the hat.
A high low 20 injector nitro system with a 24 gallon pump.
I would rethink the 4-8 injector deal. It will be a nightmare to setup with the computer. Run all eight all the time. Just use a long arm on the injector linkage to slow the tip in. The slower action will make it easier to drive on the street.
The double nozzle setup is for wide open applications. Your not doing that on the street. Get with a efi expert. Andy Starr is a good guy to get ahold of. Your making this way too complicated for a street car. My simple four nozzle efi system made over 1000 hp at the tire detuned.

 

Time to get busy the 23 season is upon us. First things first. The sleeves went in this morning. They sat outside in the below zero air last night. It was perfect timing for some cold. The blocks registers were cleaned one more time. The big torch was used to bring the temp of the block up. When it's the right temp the sleeves will slide right in. Extra care has to be taken to get them lined up right. There are reliefs cut in for the head studs. There are reliefs cut into the bottom for rod clearance. I use the sleeve driver to fully seat them as the last step. The block will get decked a few thousands so everything is flat. New receiver grooves will then be cut into the sleeves. The sleeves will then get honed to size. They are so hard a diamond cutter is used. A regular stone hone will wear out fast. It would take several stones to do them all.

 

Looks Great Gary

 

I don't think I have talked much about the blower I run. I just got it back from Littlefield today after a full service. It's been a few years since it was done last. The black strips were shot. The rear bearings were worn out along with the bearings in the snout. The front bearing plate had some scoring issues. To fix the scoring it's machined flat then re hard anodized. The bearings are replaced along with the seals.
Notice the bottom of the case. It has a pie shaped exhaust. This is not a old refurbished gm bus case. This is referred to as a retro case. It provides more support for the rotors. It also increases the boost pressure with its smaller opening.
When a blower spins the air is trapped between the rotor and case. It's going to the outside not down the middle. The black strips seal to the case. This is the usual street set up.
A race blower has additional teflon strips that seal rotor to rotor. This really tightens a blower up and jacks up the boost. The draw back is extra heat and it uses more horse power to run. Its a pay to play deal. It will make more hp with a cost. The white Teflon strips can wear out in a weekend. They are not recommended for the street. I however chose to have my rotors cut to add these strips. The strips will wear some after a few miles of street driving. They will provide some benefit yet won't provide the ultimate performance. Littlefield feels that I can slow the blower down 7-10 percent and make the same boost. The slower speed will reduce heat and wasted horse power yet still be were I was before the whites were added.
The white strips are held in place with screws. When the white strips need changing the rotors go in a lathe to hold them. Its a easy way to do it.The strips are pulled out with a vice grip. New strips are pulled in using alot of wd-40. It's a dove tailed groove. They are cut off with a inch extra on each end. They are left to sit for a while. It's a good time to go to lunch. Before the final cut with a razor blade the Teflon is tapped with a hammer. It stretches as its pulled in. The idea is to let it return to its original size so there are no gaps with the end plates.
Of course the tune up needs to be richened after a restripping. As it wears it needs to be leaned out. I need to add 18 oz of 50 wt oil and it's ready for service.

 

I should add after the rebuild it can't be turned over by hand it's that tight. When I sent it in I could spin it by hand with very little effort and it would spin for a few seconds.
A big show fuel car has its blower restripped after each pass. One crew member is dedicated to this job. That way the tune up is the same and the maximum output is achieved each pass. The hp to run a big show 14-71 is estimated at over 500. The double key ways on the crank have been shearing off so they spline the cranks. Now the crank pulley bolts shear so arp has special bolts at 35.00 each that are good for 6 runs. Multiply that times six. Of course a Kevlar belt is used. A rubber belt wouldn't last the hit.

 

WOW that is so COOL! Thanks Gary

 

Very Cool

 

The last two pieces that were sent out for servicing have arrived. The oil pump was fine and only minor work was done to it. The high and low pressure reliefs were reset and o rings replaced.
The crank was crack free and straight. It was under sized on the rods and mains by .002. Rather than cut it .010 I chose to chrome it back up to standard. It's so much easier to buy std bearings in sleeves of 28. The Rockwell hardness on the crank is 65. That's a very hard surface. Next weekend I will finish the block work. It's almost time to put the hemi back together. Today I will service the lenco. I will change first gear back to a 1.81 ratio from its current 1.65 ratio. I didn't like the 60 foot I was getting.

 

May I have more please!
Brian, I understand what most of this entails but I know some of the guys can (and do) learn a lot from your tech and photo posts.
Do you have your event schedule planned this season?

 

When I put the engine together I plan on doing alot of pics and video. It will get very detailed. I'm getting everything ready for assembly.
I have no idea how many guys out there follow this build and like the detailed explanations. So let's hear from you and what you want to see or have me focus on.

 

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE! Thanks Gary

 

I plan on doing the following events.
Torque fest Iowa
Jefferson swap spring and fall
Autorama WI dells
Nitro chaos Iowa
Out of Site drags union Grove
Lannon car show WI
Nostalgia nights summit drags
I'm working on a few more.

 

I've always been interested in Nitro tech. This is one of the most informative threads here and I'm eating it all up. It gives so much insight into what it takes to run fuel. The amount of resources it takes in terms of time & money to run this stuff is truly eye opening.

When you think about the big show folks running $35.00 x 6 ea. ARP crank pulley bolts that last only 6 passes it really sinks in. That's some serious shit and detailed stuff that most people don't realize.

 

Rockwell 65,,,,,,,that’s up there in bearing race material range !
Man,,,,,that’s hard as a rock !
But,,,,with the applied force it sees,,,,,,,it probably wouldn’t last otherwise .
And besides,,,,,it’s supposed to last,,,,,,,and let the bearings be the sacrificial item .

Brian,,,,if you ever plan on coming to Bowling Green Ky,,,,please let us know .
It’s a little over an hour away for me .

Tommy

 

I find this fascinating, the details that are involved. As in any speed endeavor, always watching for the next weak link... with the trick being you finding it before it finds you!

 

Are you going to the Fuel Altered thing in Eddyville Iowa?

 

I would like to see as much as you see fit to show.

 

I will never use the knowledge you're sharing with us but I sure love reading everything you post on here! This is absolutely one of the best threads on the HAMB at this time IMHO!

 

X's 2 on this!!! The thing's you do with that car amaze me!

 

The little kid in me would love to run nitro one day. The older (though perhaps no wiser) kid in me knows it is unlikely to happen. It fascinates me though understanding the "why" of how fuel engines come together.

There are very few people down under running nitro, and fewer still who are not in the professional classes. The chances to learn from them is limited, especially on race-day when they are all hands to the pump. Learning from the material you post here is awesome - thankyou for taking the time to post what you do.

Cheers,
Harv

 

I’ve said it before, I love the technical aspect of all of this, I’ve built a lot of engines but nothing close to this level, it’s fascinating to me.

 

Keep the details and the technical info coming. Fascinating stuff!

 

Your worldwide fanbase requires keeping on with the detailed posts. My hat is off for the time and money you put on this hobby. The perfect run is yet to come and we will be there cheering.

 

This is still the thread to read in order to witness uber hot rodding, bar none.

 

Hey, Brian;
I'm still following this thread. & learning. While I can't use 99% of the info, I still have the interest to learn. Thanks for continuing to post. I like detail. & tech w/pics. Still one of the very best threads on here.
As far as Nitro, the only way I'll get close to it again, is if I'm around you again someday. Running it has been limited to my past childhood in the nitro-powered("gas")engined U-Control flying model planes. Kinda wish that burned nitro smell could be canned, or gotten like Essential Oils... Eau de Nitro .
Marcus...

 

At this time I dont know about the fuel altered Nats. Its the same weekend as the Summit Midwest Drags. I want to do one drag and drive event this year. After all it is a street car. I want to use the event to test out some new ideas. It will probably come down to the weather on which event I show up at. I would have fun at either one.

 

I hear you Brian, that is my plan as well. Drive and Drag is where it's at. I have been following SICK WEEK all week, Fantastic!

 

I thought that we were getting a pre-entry for Sick Week, until they changed their mind on who got those. My Brother won 11.00 at RMRW last year. We are going back this year. If my Brother gets his upgrades finished, we will be doing the 10.00 class. If not, Stick Shift or 14.00 in his "girly car".

 

Mike there are alot of things to get ready. If you can't find the part you need at a auto parts store if you break down it better be on your trailer. You should test drive with a loaded trailer to see if it's balanced right. Lots of flashlights are a good idea. A pop up tent serves as shelter from the sun and rain. Labeled totes keep things dry and organized. A air compressor run by a cigarette lighter comes in handy. Myself; Squirrel; hemi joel; Tony mcmopar all can give you advice.

 

The first hit I made with the 1.61 first gear in the lenco I knew it wasn't going to work. The 60 foot showed proof. It dropped a full tenth.
Today I changed back to the 1.81 ratio. I also checked the clutch packs and spags. Those checked out OK. I did find the drive gear was showing wear. The teeth were kind of ground down. I happened to have a new spare so that fixed that. The entire reverser has to come apart. It's hard to believe this little gear sends all the power to the tires.
The shift lever moves the sliding gear forward to go forward. The sliding gear has teeth on the inside to engage the small gear. It also has teeth on the outside to engage reverse. My sliding gear has half of the teeth ground off for a neutral. This comes in very handy for many reasons. Check another thing off the list.