rebuilding after the crash

Don't forget to read the directions.

 

Now the pins go through a pin checker. My friend made me this as a Christmas present. The pins believe it or not and I have done it can bend. These are made out of tool steel. They are the bigger nitro diameter and thicker than a stock hemi pin. They are junk if they are out .001

 

Interesting that the small end isn't bushed.

 

These engines don't use C clips or spiro locks. They use these buttons. The oil ring holds them in place. It's so much easier to work with. Not only going together but also taking a piston off. With all of the violence going on the other locks would get out of their grooves causing a big disaster.

 

Saltflats no need. To machine bushings then press them in and then hone to fit is alot of work. The small end is drilled for oil. We also are not trying to get 100,000 miles out of the rods. For a street engine with steel rods I could see it. I have never seen a aluminum rod that was bushed.

 

The tapered ring compressors are bore specific and the way to go. Just push the piston down it's so easy. You will never use the adjustable sheet metal one again.
If you read the instruction then you saw the bolt stretch requirements. A bolt stretch gauge is used. The bolt is measured with no torque on it. The bolt is then torqued to the recommended spec. Another measurement is taken. The 90# recommended was right on.

 

It's all done. I was doing all of this real time. It will go in the car on Saturday. The hard work is over.

 

Fun to follow the live updates!

 

Guess that make's since.

 

It's time to get some things done. The big hemi is going back in the chassis.

 

In February, good deal.

 

The deed is done. It's bolted in. Standing back looking at it I think it looks good. It sure has a different look to it but not so much it looks like a different car. I still need to get the Bruno and lenco in after they are checked out. The dragster style zoomies are going to look great. More to come soon.

 

Mike I hope to have it running by the end of the month. I want to take it south to a track for testing. The nitro chaos event on memorial day is coming up fast. I want to be ready. This car is going to be crazy with big nitro.

 

I look the new look, very serious machine. It sure does have a presence.

 

Very 554 Coupe looking, but meaner. Love it!!!

 

The new look totaly reminds me of this car.

 

And many others from the glory days. This is all I got on short notice. LOL

 

No disrespect to the other guys before,,,,,,but , Brian’s machine is head and shoulders above the rest .
A Mopar coupe with a blown Hemi,,,,on Nitro,,,,with those zoomies and the injector hat !
No comparison to the others .

Unless you start mentioning the old AA /Altereds ,,,,,then they are close.
Sorry,,,,I’m prejudice,,,,,that beautiful green Mopar is tops !

Tommy

 

The 554 and 15oz both had blown Nitro Hemis, and ran in Top Fuel in the 1960's. Brian's coupe is a modern retro with a properly branded body, in my opinion, of course.

 

Thanks guys for the compliments. Some very cool historic cars were mentioned and shown. To be included into the conversations with these cars makes me feel good.
Today's fun involved making all new fuel lines. Nothing could be saved from the old setup. Lucky for me I had several fittings from past projects I could use. I had to run across the state line to pick up what I didn't have. I need to go back tomorrow for a few 45 degree hose ends. I'm pretty fussy when it comes to fuel lines. They can't be a mess or too long or have funny angles. Sometimes using a 45 degree fitting compared to a 90 degree can make the routing look so much cleaner. I spend alot of time trying different combinations. Now that the barrel valve is on the hat it brings up serious safety concerns. The blower belts when they break whip the belt with a crazy amount of force. It's always on the drivers side. These Kevlar belts can cut fuel lines with ease. They can cut through a funny car body with ease. The oil lines and pump on a 426 hemi are on the drivers side. The oil lines can be cut to. A yet to be installed belt guard will go on. The lines are routed away from from the top pulley for starter clearance and to get them away from the belt. I use a stainless hose going from the tank to the pump because it's stronger in the event of a crash. There's alot going on here most of the time goes un noticed. Safety first

 

Hey, Brian;
Asking 'cause I really don't know... Since it appears to me, that the feed & return fuel lines hang out in the thin air, mounted only at each end, & broken belts destroy stuff on the dr-side, why can you not run the lines to the pass side, w/a 90* behind the blower-bracket & then another 90* into the barrel valve fittings. Looks like only a few more inches of fuel lines(which could be supported behind that bracket) & maybe 2 - 90* fittings instead of 1 - 45* fitting ??? If it's a safety thing ??? Are the kevlar belts strong enough to cut the frame also? Or was that not a problem in the past? IDK.
I do like the new look. .
TIA.
Marcus...

 

A proper belt guard and proper routing are all you need. To run the line around the back of the blower would look stupid and add about five feet of fuel line.

 

Lookin Good ! Bud

 

Hey, Brian;
I didn't mean all around the back of the blower, just crossing behind the pulley on the pass side. But I suppose then they'd be in the way of the starter.
Marcus...

 

Running it behind the pulley puts the return hoses in a even more hazardous situation. A back fire out of the injector or even worse a burst panel fire could melt the fuel hoses instantly. Then I would be testing out my fire system and fire suit. Bad idea there. But thanks for trying to come up with ideas.

 

thanks for taking the time to explain all the ins and outs of what's going on and why. this is one of my favorite threads to read. have been lucky enough to see the car in person and meet you once.

 

Why do you have a bypass pipe round the pump?

 

Its a way to Not route fuel back to tank from shout off valve, back to inlet side of pump, its a optional routing/ return.
There are several different ways to plum these mechanical pumps when running a big rubber band on the front, it's up to whoever's laying out the fuel system.
what they want or if spend the xtra $
fittings and hoses.
I always run the lines & protect with Chromoly or titanium.
When it comes to the Kevlar belt it depends on your set up you get 1-10 runs on a $400 belt

 

Yeah,,,,,it’s an easier way to not deadhead the pump .

Tommy

 

I assume your talking about the chrome line going from the shut off valve to the inlet side of the pump. Previous comments are correct. Here's alittle more in depth answer. When the fuel shut off is activated or when lifting from full throttle the fuel pressure spikes. The pump is still rotating. The fuel has to go somewhere. A poppet valve set at 150 pounds will open up sending the fuel back to the tank or to the inlet side of the pump when lifting. A pump loop line works when shutting off the fuel. The fuel loops back to the inlet side of the pump eliminating the spike. Without it the fuel pressure can damage a cast pump. It will cause it to swell and throw it out of spec requiring it to be sent in for service. Without servicing the output will be down. It will throw off the tune up. Worse yet cause a possible severe lean condition causing major engine damage. I use a steel pump while a pound or two heavier it won't swell if something messes up. They stay in spec. Soon everyone will be running nitro with all of their new found nitro knowledge.