rebuilding after the crash

Thanks Justin. Can you flip it?

 

I don't think you can.

 

Guys have done it in the past I just don't know how to do it.

 

Wow!

 

Very cool.

Video went sideways, and the thing took off vertically like the Space Shuttle. Elon Musk would be jealous

Cheers,
Harv

 

Ran into Jerry Newman today in Lannon. Said it was fat the second half, also said you could tell it was over 190 by how tight the belts got when you popped the chutes. He was wearing your one of your hats !

 

How do I edit a video to turn it 90 degrees?


To rotate your videos horizontal or vertical, select your video and hover your mouse next to any corner until the Rotate icon appears. Click and drag it left or right to rotate your video until you've achieved your desired angle.

 

I didn't post the video so I can't change it.

 

To lean out the engine I added another return. It's sometimes called a pump sizer. When the pump is bigger than the engine needs you can trick the fuel system into thinking it has a smaller pump. To do that a pop off valve is added to the pressure side. I had a plugged fitting above the pump that wasn't being used. I ran a line with a jet can to the pre existing return. I put a T fitting in the return and connected them. The jet can will hold a pill size of my choosing to control the return. A .050 pill will return one half gallon. I will start there. The jet can will open at 100 psi. This way it won't go lean at the hit lifting the blower or popping the burst panel. It needs to be rich at the hit. At around 300 feet this valve will open. The lean out will begin. This will really wake it up. The mph should go over 200. Plug readings and leak downs will be monitored. Larger size pills will be added as needed.
The other thing this valve does is let's say the car is making good power during the day. Now night time comes around. There is dew on the track. Richening up this valve will kill some power preventing tire spin. It's a very versatile thing to have. Next outing I will be match racing Kenny Thatchers blown fuel altered coupe at the Out of Site drags. It's the last weekend in June. Union Grove Wisconsin. Be there.

 

Hey Brian;
Thanks for posting all the little bits of info, tuning ,et-al. I'll never use it, but I like reading & learning. You write well enough, it seems like you're talking to me live, & w/the pics, like you're pointing something out to me while I'm there. .
Marcus...

 

Thanks for the lesson Brian, I do know a little and that the return set up is a big deal with what you are doing. Good luck at the Grove my friend.

 

Learning more as I go - thanks Brian.

My FED has a similar pump sizer line. It's at the other end of the mechanical fuel injection spectrum - nostalgia 6 cylinder, blown alky, 50's vintage 155ci engine. I'm aiming for 220hp at the crank.

I figure for a safe methanol tune I'll need 2lb/hr/hp. At 220hp this gives me 7.33lb.min, which is 1.11 gpm of methanol. That would be all fed to the engine, so needs some more added for return to the tank. Assuming 30% of the fuel is returning (and 70% being fed to the engine) gives me a minimum pump size around 1.6 gpm.

I flowed a number of HAMB-era McGee pumps, but could not get any better than 1.14gpm from them. That would be only 3% return to the tank at WOT... a tuning nightmare and recipe for a high speed lean out (picture little aluminum fireflies coming out the zoomies near the end of the track...). So no go on the McGee pumps. Shame, as it is a McGee injector.

Turned my focus to the Hilborn pumps. A PG150 "00" pump should flow 1.7gpm, which would be ideal for what I am doing. I can't lay my hands on a "00" pump though for love nor money. I do have a PG150 "0" pump though. This flowed 3.4gpm. If I ran this pump, it would give 70% return to the tank at WOT (and a lot more return at less than WOT). This is workable, but it means that I would need to run a very large pill diameter in the primary bypass. Large pill diameters are harder to tune - flow changes proportional to the square of the diameter (forgive the maths), so the change from a 120 pill to a 121 pill is a lot more than the change from a 30 pill to a 31 pill. This would make tuning harder.

To make tuning easier, I run a pump sizer, which is two pills in parallel. One pill will be a large bore, and will not be changed. This tames down the pump flow. The second pill is a much more reasonable diameter, and will be changed to tune the car.






Cheers,
Harv

 

I still enjoy the hunt for rare parts at swap meets. I hit a local one today and found a magnesium idler blower pulley I have been looking for for a long time. When found they are very expensive. They made a narrow and wide version. The wide one for a three inch belt is what i needed. I found it in the grass for 20.00. I almost fell over. It's on the car now. I couldn't wait to get it on. The weight savings is minimal. Its more about the cool factor.

 

Sounds like a lottery win Brian!
Right place right time, but ya gotta keep beating the bushes for stuff.

 

I had a extra pass to get in. I called a friend I knew was coming out. I told him to give me a call when he arrived. He called and said he is at gate 5. I didn't know the lay out of the gates and ended up at gate 7. Now having to walk to the correct gate I had to walk by this guy selling far off the main area. No one was going over to look at his parts. If it wasn't for the offer to give away a pass I would have never been in that area. I had to walk by him to get to the correct gate. I guess it was payback for helping a guy out.

 

Sounds like Karma! Good for you.

 

I always felt idler pulley should be on outside of belt against flat side of belt. Bothers me running teeth of belt over flat pulley. Hope that makes sense. Comments?

 

Gotta get there somehow!

 

The deal with the belt on the inside is from decades ago. The belief was doing it that way wrapped the belt around the pullies for more tooth engagement. The old belts were much more narrow. They were also rubber. The pitch was 8mm. They just weren't that strong.
I run a 3 inch wide Kevlar belt with a 11mm pitch. It's far far superior to the old parts. I have run the same belt 19 percent over driven for 7 years now. It doesn't know if I'm missing 1 or 2 teeth of engagement.
To set up the belt correctly makes more of a impact. In a perfect world the pullet barely moves the belt out. The same percentage of overdrive can be achieved with different tooth counts. Pullies with larger or smaller tooth counts take a longer or shorter belt. The idea is to get the percentage you want with the least amount of offset on the idler side.
This leads to proper belt setup. The belt doesn't need to be guitar string tight. It can't be flopping around either. It's best checked with a hot engine. Blocks and heads grow alot especially aluminum.
The engine is rotated backward putting all the play on the idler side. The belt is adjusted so there is little to no deflection. Lock it down. Now rotate the engine clock wise and check the amount of movement. There will be more play in the belt now. The belt needs to move. I saw a guy have a belt so tight when the engine got hot and grew it ripped the snout off the blower.
If running the tooth side of the belt on the idler was bad this belt wouldn't have survived thousands of miles of street driving. It's a proven thing. The modern parts dismiss the theories behind the way it used to be done. Not saying you can't do it that way. Most times if the belt isnt the correct size to start with the idler pulley gets in the way of the pump extention.

 

Some belts can not be run back bent.

 

That might be for some style of belts. I have not seen a issue with a belt designed for a blower application. The Kevlar belts have ribs molded in to the outside of the belt. Either way is riding on a surface that isn't smooth.
The idler pullies are not flat. They have a high spot in the center that tapers front and back.

 

Doing some maintenance tonight. Valve spring shimming. I ran throught the springs with a on head tester. New springs will drop about 40 lbs installed after a few runs. It's perfectly normal. Adding a .060 shim brings the pressure back up. Some math is needed to make sure there is room to do this without coil bind.
The spring is compressed in the vice to coil bind and measured. The cam card gives the lift. A measurement of the installed height is needed. Whip out the calculator and it's easy to see if it will fit. After this is done the springs will maintain their pressure for a long time.
This is a huge deal for many reasons. The piston is chasing the exhaust valve all the time. They run very close to each other. Weak springs equal bent valves. In a hemi the valves point at each other. The intake can clip the exhaust. The intakes are big and heavy. Add to that pressure from the blower on the back side. The intakes have to close. If not when the plug fires it lights the fuel in the manifold causing a big explosion. Good spring pressure will be noticed when the engine is running. They sound very crisp. I can change them out with the head on. Doing a few that way is OK. Doing 16 it's easier to pull the head.

 

Loaded and ready for the out if site drags. Trying for some 6 second 200mph passes. I feel it's ready to pull it off. Stop out at union Grove wi for a incredible nostalgia race/show/swap. Friday and saturday.

 

Was going to go on Friday, but the weather looks like it has other ideas.

 

Be fast. Be safe.

 

You can do it.

 

The forecast is getting better by the hour. It looked like a wash out. Now it's only 24 percent chance. I just checked.

 

Good Luck
Be Safe
Go Fast

 

Good old mother nature...

 

Rain messed up the track. Only one hit then I was done. Put the car on three wheels. Left side lost traction resulting in a hard left turn toward the wall. I did my job and brought it back in one piece. Doing fuel altered driving. Video will be posted at some point. It is on my face book if someone knows how to get it off there. Two passes today.