For those not familiar with the parts im talking about here are a few pics. The number stamped on the end of the spool refers to how the ramp is ground. There are diffent ramps for different fuels or for different percentages of nitro. I dont want to loose followers if they dont understand this stuff and what we are doing.
Racer-x, thank you for sharing your build of this fantastic car. Unsurpassed quality! A lot of us are not drag racers and it is very interesting to learn some of the finer points of your 'dual fuel' system. Really appreciate you taking the time with detailed explanations.
You don't have to worry 'bout me. I've quietly been subscribed to this thread for months. The details are fascinating!
thanks guys. im sure there is a broad level of skill sets on the hamb. based on feed back and questions I agree most on here are not nitro racers but do find this all interesting. im just trying to share what it takes to build a crazy car from the ground up. sometimes I wonder if im posting too many details. some may find it boring. for my first thread it seems to be going ok so far. I never thought it would go over 100,00 views. im shocked every time I see the counter go up.
It's one of the better threads...probably because the car is so neat! and you're doing a great job explaining what you're doing, and why you're doing it. The pics really help
Keep posting details. I'll never build a nitro drag / street coupe, but it's cool to see what goes in to building one.
Last september i was talking to squirrel on the last day of drag week about doing a thread on the rebuild. You are enjoying all of this because he showed me how to start the thread and post pics. Thanks jim
I forgot about that....yeah, I guess I did egg you on...the main thing I wanted you to know, is that folks love this kind of build thread. And you've shown us how to do it right!
Folks like me DO love this build and the info will be more then handy if I ever do this to my coupe. Brian is good enough to share the blue print of the wildest street strip coupe on the planet!
The pics say it all. The steering is very smooth. The column bushings were fit by hand. The mount for the air lines turned out great. We did the final fitting this morning.
Taking a break tonight. We are at the largest german fest in the country. Bringing a little culture to the kids. Having a good time. We will get back on the car tomorrow.
I enjoy the amount of info you share. I wish I was closer because I would love to get some hands on learning. But other the that; keep up the good work and it will be all good.
Like squirrel said we may never have a fuel car but we still enjoy reading the details. And your style of explaining what you are doing works very well.
I saw ya at the Meltdown drags, and was surprised that with everything going on you still took the time to answer my questions. Not only that you explained it so I understood it. I have learned that nitro doesn't need oxygen to burn, from this thread. I never even new it. Keep up the good work and thanks for posting. Hopefully we could get a video of the cockpit when going down the track when done. Tony Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've seen instances of the mag kill switch fusing the contacts over time, and not letting the motor start. It might be a good idea to change it out once in awhile, rather than having to trouble shoot it in the middle of a race! jerry
Brian Reread the whole build last night. I have a model a coupe body that's next in line rafter the 56. After rereading this last night it pretty clear there is only one direction to go with it. Keep up the good work.
Hi racerx.I do hope that steering shaft is going to be shortened up a bit.. Good luck.Have fun.Be safe. Leo
i do use a mag specific switch. they are heavy duty. i do change them at regular intervals. sounds like a good plan with the a.
Good deal on the switch. I've seen them fail in the past and not have a spare. Ruins a day at the track! Glad that you are looking ahead! jerry
i was able to get out of work a little early today. i started out plumbing the shifter air lines. i need to be able to remove the steering wheel to get in and out of the car. So until the body goes back on i cant trim the lines any shorter. The bars that support the fuel tank look simple. They are far from it. The tank and all its attatched tubing are removable. There are several complex angles there. Its hard enough to build one on the first try. Now do it twice and make them match thats hard to do. It takes some balls to put a drill to mag halibrands. But what can you do it needed to be done. Next up for them is the mill. A 5x5 pattern needs to be drilled into them. Jim was hard at work with a piece of box tubing. He said this is your brake pedal. Im still trying to picture it in the car. The torsion bars are due to arrive tomorrow. the arms were shortened by six inches to make everything fit. this messed up all of the calculations. the bars were too strong now. because the arms were shortened half their length the bars had their diameter reduced by nearly half. they can't be cut on a lathe. they had to be sent back to be center less ground. Lucky im off so i get the fun of putting it all back together. Parts are starting to get bolted in their final places. Time is running short.
i was told this air line can be run under real hot water so kit can be formed into nearly a 90 degree angle. do you have any experience doing this jim
I know it will get soft if it's attached to a compressor that overheats.... my guess is that it probably can be formed like that. There are also 90 degree quick disconnect fittings, that look just like those elbows that have a thread on one side, you can get them without the threaded fitting. called an Elbow Union In the robot stuff we do, there are strict rules about not modifying pneumatic parts, at all, so we don't try to form the hoses.
i can't fit 90 degree fittings on the casting. there is not enough room between the three fittings to rotate them. one is a air supply the other two go the trans pods to engage the clutch packs. it would look cleaner if i could get the lines to be at a 90 degree angle running closer to the column.
Looking good man. Do you think you are gonna make hamb drags ? Also they make those airline fittings in a 90 degree that are a swivel fitting and also make 90 degree push connect fittings that push in a straight fitting like you have and the line pushes into the 90 fitting we use them all the time in the trucking industry I don't know what kind of pressure you are running but the air brake stuff on these trucks are regulated at 120 psi. What pipe thread and air line are you using Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
We are doing all we can to get it there. Its high on the priority list. Jim got the wheels drilled. The torsion bars showed up as planned. They are in the car now. The bars were adjusted for ride height and firmness. I took a few pics to show what makes it up. Im out getting all the hardware to finish it off. The lenco reverser handle was moved back 5/8 of a inch. This caused domino effect that took more than a hour to straighten out. John is making the water pump mount. Now that jim is back from lunch he is working on getting the master cylinder in. Im sure im missing something but these are the highlights from this morning. Jim the hot water worked.
Brian I was a machinist for nearly 30 years, haven't worked for about 12 years, still love seeing these kind of construction photos. Question: Are you using the Halibrands for street use and the American "Bear Paws" for strip use? Car is looking great.
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