Bear paws for the strip. The halibrands are wider and so are the street tires. I didnt polish the halibrands all the way to save some time not having to polish as much.
Hey Brian here is a pic of the fittings I was talking about the silver fitting is a 1/4" swivel 90 fitting the middle one is the 90 push in adapter and the last one is just a example of the adapter in a straight fitting If you can't find them locally let me know I have a drawer full of this stuff Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
i have been buying all my fittings from lake county hose. its across the street from jims shop. i think the push in adaptors will work. they should have some in stock. its a big place. thanks for the tip. 200 lbs of air pressure.
So you guys want details heres a few from today. The front brake hats were rubbing on the steering arms. I noticed this when i saw shavings at the melt down. Due to the stresses on the right side two arms are stacked then welded together. The outside edge needed some material removed. Special 12 point arp bolts are used for extra strength. They also have a smaller head for the clearance i needed. The rotor register also needed some clearance. It took alot of time to get it right. I used alot of lay out dye. The pump mount uses a piece of tubing to support one end. A bracket is used for the other side. Its very tight in the trunk. To get the battery out without having to remove the radiator the battery tray was trimmed. This allows the battery to slide out. the bottom of the radiator covers part of the battery so it can't be lifted up and out. That worked until we mounted the pump. The pumps bracket is made with a spacer now so i can unbolt the pump and swing it out of the way without draining the radiator. Then remove the battery. If im on the side of the road due to a bad battery this pre planning will be priceless. The shifter was moved so i can reach it better when im belted in. due to the problem this caused with the changes to the angles the shifter arm needed a pie cut. it was laid back about 15 degrees then welded. it works great now. The brake parts are all made. Going in tomorrow. It was another busy day.
Im up early getting some things done. The panels came back from the powder coater. The rear one needs to be in before the body goes back on. The master cylinder is mostly in. It just needs to be finish welded. The rear driveshaft loop is in. I will be working on the brake lines and wiring over the next few days. Only a few more things need to be fabricated and welded. We are getting close.
it has to be unpainted due to the rules. if its painted or powder coated cracks in the frame cannot be seen. any surface rust is easily removed with oooo steel wool. we treat the frame with gibbs. the gibbs dries to the touch. right now a few areas are not treated due to more welding that needs to be done. I think it looks cool unpainted. there is some upkeep leaving it this way. I have a lift in the shop so it shouldn't be that hard to wipe it down again. I have gone over it once already. a plus side is that it has that real hard core racer look that I like.
After work i went to the shop to put the floor in. Jim had already ran a tap through the threaded holes along the back of the panel. If there is any powder coating inside the holes the bolts will lockup so tight they will snap off. Just how do you get all of those holes to line up? Easy if you have the right tool. A dzus fastener with a point allows you to mark the panel in just the right spot. Its placed in the spring bracket then the panel is tapped with a leather hammer leaving a dimple. As long as you can drill a straight hole your good. To make the job of fastening the springs easier a cleco clip is used to hold the spring in place. Not only does the clip provide a third hand it also centers the spring for the second rivet. Pop rivets are easy but dont last. Solid aluminum rivets are used here for long life. The rivets are set perfect every time with the right tool. Of course to get the floor to lay this flat the spring brackets need be placed correctly so the floor doesnt look like a wash board.
Some mock up work was done on the front shocks. A piece of tubing was slid into the frame. This tubing will not only hold the shocks it will also have the headlights mounted to it. The shocks look like vintage shocks with the bell shape on the bottom of the dust cover. They are the latest 16 position adjustable qa- 1 makes. The screw on the bottom changes the valving
The outlet on the radiator was moved about ten degrees and rewelded. Its now in almost a straight line with the pump. Sunday i wired the fans and pump. Everthing is fused and setup with relays. It sure takes longer to do it right but there is peace of mind knowing its done right. These three items are so critical to the car no chances can be taken.
there was a lot of progress today but not without its setbacks. i brought the halibrands to get the street tires mounted. we put them on without soapy water to prevent corrosion of the magnesium. its harder to get them on this way but we did get it done. after the second tire was on my tire guy noticed the the date of manufacture on my brand new tires. they are six years old already. thats not exeptable. i called mcormack racing in michigan were i got them from. they agreed with me. they get them from coker tire the mh distributor. they are checking availability i should have a answer tomorrow after they check the dates on their stock. i don't have extra time to have these problems. theres another two hours wasted.
i did get some 90 degree swivels for the air lines. they did fit and have a much better look. i looked at some of the pics i posted recently and was not happy with the red wiring going up the a-pillar. i rewired it in black now it doesn't stand out. much better. there are hundreds of little details that have been taken care of lately its been so crazy i can't remember them all. did i say mention the brake pedal was finish welded and the seat mounted to check the fit?
This morning i was able to make a hose for the radiator. I bent a piece of tubing to simulate a hose and took it to the parts store. I found one with the radius i could use if i cut in half then rotated it some. Jim ran a short piece of muffler tubing through the bead roller so the hose wont slip off. A few clamps and its done. The shocks turned into a bigger project than planned. A piece of tubing was bent then welded to the removable piece of frame. The headlights mount to this as well. The lights are positioned low so they dont stand out so much. From the side they cant be seen. The wiring will be set up with plug in connectors so the frame piece can come out when needed. These lights were converted to the good halogen bulbs. All the front end hardware is now chrome. I started on the efi wiring. I can already see what i will be doing for the next few days.
The big rats nest of wiring in my last post has been reduced to a mouse nest. I had the fast efi box mounted to the passenger kick panel in the old car. It new location is behind the passenger seat. There is less rf if its away from the msd. The move made the harness too short. Lucky for me i had a spare. I was able to splice into the harness extending it the required length. Doing it this way i was able to match the wire colors and have the right connectors. Running the harness under the seat required spacers under the seat mounts to raise the seat up. Something i always didnt like on the orange car was all of the electronics were bolted to the firewall. On the engine side there were nuts everywere. To get rid of that mess i made a panel that bolts to the frame. The firewall will be alot cleaner looking. View attachment 3298210 View attachment 3298211 The co2 bottle was mounted today. The air lines are now in their final places. I just need to connect the fuel pump then i can test all of my work. Both headlights are now on. They need to be moved up a little to get them at the right angle. The brake lines coming out of the master cylinder are made. It may not look like 12 hrs of work today but it sure was.
Nice work as always, X. What kind of sensor is that mounted to the left of the coil? MAP? BARO? And I really dig all the Deutsch connectors.......
map sensor it is. squirrel gets the prize. it measures manifold pressure and vacumn. when the blower makes boost the sensor sends a signal to the computer. the computer pulls timing so the engine doesn't detonate. a laptop is plugged into the computer to create a timing map. my timing under non boost conditions is set at 32 degrees. under full boost it drops to 24 degrees. turbo and nitrous cars use the same system. the hose has a t-fitting in it that can't be seen here. it runs to my boost gauge. without a boost gauge you really don't know how much boost the engine is making. you can figure out the ratio of the pulleys but that won't give the pressure.
the black box on the far right side is for my speedo. my trans has no way to hook up a speedo cable. the box uses gps to measure the speed sending a signal to the speedo. it works good.
I've been following this rebuild thread since the beginning. This is a real beast! Awesome work! [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The grille has been added to my offerings to the gods of speed. The center piece is the bent frame. Its a good conversation piece when friends stop over. The parts also have a serious side to them. They constantly remind me to be safe.
It was a year ago today the car was crashed. As i post this it is almost to the hour so im told by my son. Its seems only fitting that the car came home at almost the same time as i was hitting the wall. Im on emergency call for the hospital starting friday for the next week. I have to be able to get to work at any time in 30 mins. Jims shop is a hour away from work so i grabbed the car so i can work on it as long as im not called in. Its almost done. There have been lots of small things done on it in the last week. The trans mount turned out really cool. The body went back on late this afternoon. I hope i didnt forget anything that needed to be done while it was off.
The Jalopy Journal
