im not sure how I'm going to go about solving the safety pin issue. i do have a master cut out switch at the back of the car. some safety pins are electric some manual from the inside. mine can go either way but are set up for manual operation. i think i will start a thread just for this issue. maybe someone has a answer that does not visit this tread. it is a big concern of mine. its risky running without them and with them.
Tim sent this pic tonight. Its his drawing on how things should lay out so it all goes together the first time. We only get one chance to nail this. These wheels are rare and expensive
If you are going to have lexan door windows, can you mount the actuating lever in the window opening then cut a slot in the window so you can have an inside handle and one that can be used from outside as well? Then paint a big arrow on the window so it is obvious how to open the latch. You could do the same thing on the body as well I guess but it would be less destructive with the slot in the window.
i set up a separate thread regarding the suicide door issues for two reasons. the first is not everyone goes to this thread. i may reach a larger group of hambers. secondly i don't want to focus on just this one problem here. i think it effects more guys than just me.
I sent tim some material with the wheels. He is starting to make the hats. These will press on the wheels first then be secured using bolts at the parting line.
sounds like tim is going to pull a all nighter. he wants to get them done tonight. he has some important things coming up and they need to get done. i can't wait to see it all come together.
simon i have thought about something like that. dick they can be worked both manually and powered. we need to come up with something to work them from the outside.
Glad you're OK and I appreciate your overview about Drag Week. I've been thinking I need to do that at least once. I'll be following the rebuild.
good question. for several reasons. the new reissued wheels are only offered in aluminum. the real deal wheels were magnesium. nothing shines like polished magnesium. they are also much lighter. The cost is almost the same. repros cost about 900 each through summit. The new ones have a differant shape to the spoke. look were the spokes meet in the center. its built up between the spokes. the nostalgic funny car running the repros pictured has to run a sfi wheel. sharp eyes will catch the carbon fiber brake rotor. Some times its worth taking the harder road. Cool comes with a price and the real ones are plain bad ass. if i wanted cheap and easy i would drive a prius. repo on the top. real on the bottom.
I spent some time today on the lenco. The output shaft was set up for a funny car. They use a coupler instead of a slip yoke. They can do this because they dont have a rear suspension. I ordered the correct longer output shaft and put it in. The pics show the differance. Im going to keep the reverser cover thats set up for the collar. It will save me a hundred dollars. Normally they just have a aluminium flat cover without the cone shape.
Here you can see the big helicopter sprag. They come from a huey. You can also see the shift fork. When the lever is pulled for the next gear the fork is pushed down. This engages the clutch pack inside the drum. there is a piece that covers the fork thats not shown here. the pressure on the clutch pack is adjustable with shims.
The planetary gears rotate around a gear thats inside of them. This assemble drops into a drum with teeth. The three gears work together inside the case. The sprag lets it spin in only a clock wise direction. Based on the amount of teeth on each gear gives you the percentage of gear reduction. If you want more gears all you need to do is bolt on more cases filled with the three gears. The lightened planetary set is cool. removing the big snap ring allows you to get at the clutches and plates.
I got the extra handle off the shifter that i didnt need. Then i started to get the shifter mocked up. I need some longer bolts to mount it to the rear case. I also need to pick up a new reverse lever at a friends shop. When i rotated the case to put the lever on the right side the levers groove gets caught in the spring loaded detent. I just need to modify the reverse gear slider so i can have a neutral.
Racer-X Thanks so much for posting the Tech involved with a High Horsepower Track Capable Race Car. Very interesting to see the inner workings on some of your components and what is required to run at a high level.
I cannot be the only one who is enjoying this Tech Education, I come here to enjoy the subjects discussed, but really like to learn something as well. This is a great learning thread for anyone that checks in. Again, thanks for posting for us.
Hey, RacerX; I also enjoy reading the tech in this thread. Thanks for posting in the detail you do. Helps w/the understanding as to *why* things should be done the way they are. Esp the wheels. If you could PM me, I'd appreciate knowing the (very rough) ballpark figure to have the mag wheels modified, as Tim is doing for you. Same w/the price of the brake 'kit'. Probably can't afford it, but something for me to consider for a future lightweight hotrod. The Al wheels would be better (practical), but sometimes I get weightless-greedy... , as in dreaming of literal feather-weight stuff. Which seems to = serious $$$, that I don't have... ;( . Still..., . Marcus...
No you are not. Racer-X, keep posting about the re-build. Some of us really enjoy seeing things from the inside-out.
Marcus the brake kit costs about 650.00 from the chassis shop. They are in michigan. They have a web site with all their products listed. They are one of my favorite plaes to buy from. Tim is charging me 500 for everything. I supplied the aluminium for the hats. this was the friends price. he said with all the work thats involved that the price is a steal. he most likely won't be doing the job that cheap again. More tech coming up as i get after the reverser today.
The bear paws are almost done. Here is a early pic. The magnesium wheels look cool in a natural finish or with a polished outer rim area. Then there is the full polished wheel spokes and all. Im going with the full wheel
Thanks for the in-depth tech info on your build. Most people have no idea the dedication and expertise needed to accomplish what you are doing. Anybody can write a check, some bigger than others.
If you live in southeast wisconsin here is the man. This is mike worwey. He works at irving polishing in kenosha. He is the best polisher i have ever met. He takes great pride in the work he does and it shows. I dont want to loose any detail like the edge of the rim buffed off or have wavey spokes on the wheels. His prices are very resonable. He doesnt normally do wheels but im a good customer. It helps that he thinks the wheels are cool. He said i have never seen wheels like this and they must be rare. I replied you probable wont see some like this ever again.
This is the build to watch, if you are into a well built drag car that also will have a outstanding look!
RacerX; Thanks for the info. $$$ wasn't quite as bad as I feared, still, quite a chunk of change for me - including the wheels. At least I know. Also glad to see recos mentioned for shops & guys doing quality work for fair prices. Appreciate the thread & it's info. Thank you for that. This is a fairly rare thread in that respect. Marcus...
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