Yeah I thought everyone calls it “THE Fuel Coupe” Basically meaning all others need not apply. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
After 10 hrs of grinding the crank spins with the rods attached. The rod reliefs were ground first. The crank counter weight at bdc then hit the small end of the rod. This is common in big stroke engines with big rods. The pins are larger 1.30 and that adds to the mess. The rods were put in the mill for clearancing on the counter weight side only. the crank already had a large champfer cut into the counter weight so i chose to go after the rods. it won't weaken them. When i could get the crank to go 360 with a pair of rods all the possible places were things could hit were checked. I use feeler gauges and wire to check for at least .050 clearance. The crank and rods came out too many times to count as some extra massaging took place. the rod to rod clearance came in at a perfect .050 The hard nasty work is done. I will go over everything with some sanding rolls to smooth things out. The final step is a half round file to break any edges at the bottom of the bore. That was a work out today.
The seam on the rod caps looks like they were broken after machining, not just machined flat, I have seen this in diesel engines at work. Do you know how this actually done? and is there an advantage to this over standard seams?
Since Brian probably doesn’t want to take his apart for a pic I will hi jack for this one. This is a pic of my BBC Aluminum rod. I was under the impression it was to keep the cap from shifting when torqued down. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think but dont know for sure that cracked rods are for iron castings. My aluminum rods are machined from plates. There are many opinions on what is the better rod material between forgings or plate. I have good luck with grp plate rods. The caps on grps are cut in a circular pattern. This keeps the caps from walking. The circular pattern is the newer design over a cross cut pattern. In the pic previously posted the bolts are only finger tight. When torqued down you cant see a parting line. Today is the move out day for the cars that get stored over winter. As soon as they are gone the short block goes together.
Having that mill working saved you a bunch of time on them rods I bet. Looks like it coming together finally. Good luck on everything else.
yes it did. thanks go out to tony aka ncmopar and mark for getting the mill wired up two weeks ago. having it here and working saves a lot of time not having to run to friends houses to borrow one.
Does the clearance grinding affect the balance enough to have to re-do that now too? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The relieved areas were gone over with a sanding role. That smoothed out things nicely. The engine was then cleaned inside and out. I got the crank back in then checked piston to head clearance. That checked out perfect. Because i had a head on i put on the other one to check the manicold fit.
I started the day putting on the gear drive cover. Then i put on the front hub with two chromoly keys. With the cover on i can set tdc on the balancer. The tdc mark gets filed into the balancer. I use a piston stop for best results. I also had the degree wheel on so i could degree the cam. After the cam was set at 112 degrees i double check it by setting the cam at split over lap. The lifters should both be up almost level with the intake about .020 higher. I then put in a rod and piston to see if it still turned over. It didnt. The cams exhaust lobe was hitting the rod around the big end. This is normal with a non raised cam; big rods and big cam. I ordered the rods cam cut but they are still too big. Grps generally run big. So in the mill they went. Dont get all freaked out thinking im ruining the rod. This is normal big stroker motor stuff. The material removed is at the top of the bolt hole were the threads stop. So only the material on each side of the hole gets removed. Its not much. Each rod was checked with a mirror and flash light for clearance inside the engine. The final step will be checking the clearance with some soft solder wire. Holding the solder while turning over the engine by hand smashes the solder between the rod and cam lobe. Its then measured with a caliper. Im looking for .025 minimum. When thats done all the rods and pistons will be washed then installed. I went ahead and set up the front drive and pickup while i had the front cover on. Alot needed to be changed over from the 354. There was some time spent on the lathe today getting it all to fit It took most of the day and evening to get this far. More big nitro motor tech coming soon.
View attachment 3851575 View attachment 3851568 View attachment 3851569 View attachment 3851570 View attachment 3851571 Its hard to capture a pic holding a flash light and phone but here goes. The first pic shows were im looking through. Its the distributor hole up front. Looking into the engine on pic two the cam lobes can be seen. The dark one is the exhaust. Its right on top of the relief cut into the rod. The other pics are looking through number two lifter bores. The rod bolt hole can be seen there just below the cam lobe. I hope the pics provide a better explanation of what im doing compared to just a description.
The first pair of rods are in for good. We use a stretch gauge on the rod bolts. Grp says 90 foot pounds on the torque wrench will stretch the bolt .007-.0075 and they are correct. This torque spec is with their supplied bolt lube. The trick here is to set the adjustable pin to create the most spring pressure. This helps provide the most stable and accurate reading. .
Another hurdle was completed monday in regards to being compliant with home land security laws for possessing nitro. I got the on site inspection and application process completed. It took over nine hours. I cant get into details but i can say the process was extremely involved and complete. As much of a pain in the ass this all is its good to know there are goverment agents looking out for our nations safety.
They are not too concerned with how i use it. Im legit. Their big concern is if a bad guy gets ahold of my fuel and how they will use it. Nothing good will come of that. Timmothy mcveigh used nitro bought at a track in dallas to build his bomb in oklahoma city. I can say if anyone breaks into my shop it will be treated as a terrorist threat until proven other wise. If the alarm or cameras gets tripped its a full on responce from all local law enforcement agencies. It wont end well for them. Every agency in se wisconsin is aware of whats in the shop. It will automattically come up on the dispatchers screen alerting them to a possible terrorist threat. Nobody is taking this lightly.
I guess I will call before I stop over for a visit... between the dog(s), camera’s, alarm, guns, and the Police dept. just down the road your place is well protected. If I hear Helicopters and see search lights North of me I will know something isn’t right at your place! “Frightened” Jim
Jim you have nothing to worry about. Stop over any time. dont forget the drones. Home land security had some very interesting photos of my property. When i asked about them and how they dont look like google maps i was told we use our own sattelites. Things that make you go hhhmmmm. Its too bad a few bad actors make these things necessary.
Thanks! Do I need to apply for security clearance documents? I may have it consider installing camouflage netting over my place so the drones have a challenge seeing what’s going on over here! Jim
its funny you should mention that. my family and crew need to have back round checks. they are required by anyone that has access to the fuel. its already hard to see what you are doing your cars are small..
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