just got my 235 back from the speed shop. they broke it down completely and beefed it up and cleaned it. now the block is built, pistons, crank, cam, gears, and head is back on with lifters and rockers in position. i need to ***emble the rest. does anyone know a good engine stand that will hold a 235 straight six? iv been checking harbor freight but there descriptions dont say if it will bolt to a inliner. my buddy has a v8 engine stand but i dont know if it will be compatible. or is there another company that sells an engine stand for this motor? FYI, i do not have a whole lot of time to go and build my own.
get one that has moveable arms that bolt the the back of the block, not a solid plate that is predrilled. You will need a few washers/shims because the mounting surface on the back of the block is different than a SBC. I always keep a 2x4 to prop between the block and top of the stand
Make sure it's a heavy duty stand, with 4 wheels. Those engines are heavy and long, and will make a HF engine stand squeal in pain. I have a Mac that cost some $$$ 20+ years ago, it has no problem holding up a 235
I prop mine up as well, never had a 6-banger on mine, but plenty of BBCs. Don't skimp on the bolts either, most stands come with grade zilch hardware. Bob
I used a HF engine stand on my 235 over the summer. When I was lowering the hoist the whole stand started to fold on itself.....kept the engine hoist on it for insurance. it was the heavy duty one from hf too. problem is the engine is so heavy and long. you need to buy a quality one unless you plan on having a major problem on your hands.
I tried to mount my 235 on a typical engine stand and there was no way I was leaving it. It made the stand sag and put the valve cover height at about 4 and 1/2 feet off the ground.
If you have a '52 or later 235 with side mount bosses, it would be pretty quick and easy to make an angle iron 'yoke' that bolted to the side of the block and rested on the lower frame of the engine stand. Or, if no side bosses, then you surely have a 'drilled for mounts front plate' that would also make for secure attachment. I commonly put a support of some kind under the front of almost any engine I put on a stand. Cheap insurance. Ray
good to know about HF engine stands guys. i do know this iron pig is heavy and awkward, even when using the hoist. might look into another supplier instead of HF. any suggestions besides MAC?
I would look for side bosses on the block, make a nice head from 3/8" plate that covers a base of holes at least 8" square. Weld a thick wall (Shelby) tube on and plug it into your standard stand. The connecting head turns the block in a 'somersaulting' direction, rather than a 'rollover'. This is the method used for BMW, Mercedes Benz, and other German inlines. Should be 'good enough' for a Chevrolet...
Check Jegs or summit racing. The stand you are looking for has 4 wheels and at least a 1,000 LB rating. They both offer that stand in thier own brand, but make sure its the good one, looks like it should be about 80 bucks. Here is the one i like, but if your not using it often it might be overkill http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-918010/ Scot
Excellent suggestion. I took this approach with my straight 8 Buick. Made a long bracket that bolted on the pan rail and a 3/8" plate bolted to the side mount bosses, tied together with square tube and a right angle round tube about mid engine that just plugs into the top of the enghine stand like the original. Forgot all about that when I wrote the above post....and I walk past that thing almost everyday Ray
i was just looking at this one today when i got home. i got another chevy short block in the garage i want to finish building so this stand would serve multi purposes.
unearthly57<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_7402679", true); </SCRIPT> , can you tell me cost of Machine work and parts on 235 ?
I have 2 HF motor stands and one has had a 216 on it for at least 10 years and no bending on either one, maybe the newer ones were made with thinner metal. Anyway this is how I mounted mine.
HF sells a variety of engine stands rated at 750, 1000 and 2000 lbs. I have a 2000 lb. one that is beefy enough for any car engine. It is the one with two legs that flare out toward the front of the engine. I rebuilt a straight eight Buick with it a few years ago with no problem at all and that is a long, heavy engine! I bought another 1000 ob HF stand last week. It was on sale for $60 and may still be. I have a 6 cylinder Hupp flathead bolted to it and it is plenty strong and stable for that engine. I wouldn't recommend the lighter 750 lb stand to anyone. It's short on strength and stability.
I'd bolt the bell housing on the block and use a couple of cinder blocks - one under the bell, the other under the front plate to keep the pan off the floor. If the plate is drilled, secure it to a 2x4 15-18" long with a couple of lag bolts.Even a c-clamp will work. The block will be low enough to set the head on solo with a couple of guide studs. Anything less than a 4-legged stand for a complete 235 is just too unstable - if it tips, the best you can do is jump out of the way!!! Good Luck with your build! - Tim
well to start off, i checked around for prices. out of the four shops in maine, two were out of my driving range (4 hr +). one was pricey and i would have to drive to them and drop it off. the last guy i got a hold of was close in price to the third guy but he offered to pick up and deliver and paint the motor. i gave him the motor as a whole (no belhousing, no wires, intake, exhaust, etc) just a block, head, lifters, valve cover and oil pan. i had the motor bored 30 over, resurfaced crank, hardened valves, hardened exhaust, reconditioned rods, resurface head, and he was able to get me a rebuild kit for about 300, he also scored me a slightly better/bigger cam to help give the motor a little more kick. they tore the motor down, cleaned everything painted the block and head and put the block, head and inards back together. all i have to do is ***emble the rest. final price came out to roughly 2100. the parts and upgrades were about 1100, the rest was for labor, cleaning, and PU and delivery. i do not have the spec sheet yet, as of right now that shop is backed up and they only got 3 guys working it.
Sidemounting inliners is the way to go, did many a big 6 diesel this way. I have a killer NAPA engine stand with a gear drive rotary head, it's ***S!
I don't remember where I bought (or borrowed) it from, but here's my 261 on a standard engine stand, with adjustable arms. No problems and it had no more flex than a big block.
Awww, come on........you not showin' us the engine stand...you just want to show off that BLOWER!!! Nice!, can't say I blame you.............. Ray
The real bad ones I have seen are the three wheeled cheapies, might be the 750 lb ones, but a friend had a SBF on one and we almost tipped it over trying to get that one front wheel over an expansion joint in his garage floor. It also had a ton of flex in it with just that small block on it! Scot
I've got an old three wheel stand that I rebuilt into a four wheel stand and put a gusset between the post and leg a number of years ago. It's been holding my 292 for two years. As inexpensive as the three wheel stands are I'd think about taking two of them and making a four wheel stand that caught the block on both ends. It would take a bit of fabbing but a guy should have one that would hold up the engine and be safe to use then.
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