Technical Rebuilding F1 steering box, who’s kit did you use??

Morning all,
I’m getting ready to rebuild the steering box for my hot rod. It’s a ‘50 F1 box and it’s loose in the middle.

I’m looking at a couple choices. The kit from the early ford store https://www.earlyfordstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/85_165/products_id/5453
will require me to cut off and press on the gear to the steering shaft and everyone says it’s tight, heat, dry ice and a big press.

The other choice is from Mac’s, this one comes with an ***embled shaft and gear so no heat, ice and pressing. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_truck_late/ford-f-series-steering-box-rebuild-kit-1948-1960.html
Only a $30 difference.

So, who has used either of these? Input
On either? Comments or tips on removal of the worm gear from the steering shaft?

Thanks all,
Cliff Ramsdell

 

I rebuilt my F1 box last fall,and used Mac"s. The only beware....The online store takes orders for parts they don't have.Then you get the back order e mail.I waited 4 months for the steering shaft,and gear.When I got it I liked the quality,and the car is far from being ready so I wasn't out much.I also replaced the pitman worm gear so my box is like new.I found my bushings to still be tight so I left them.I don't see making work for myself.When I rebuilt the pitman to get the pin out its sweaged on the ends so it cant walk out.I dremeled the end on one side until it was smaller then tapped it out with a punch.Many guys when installing the gear,and shaft will weld the shaft to the pitman shaft to keep it from walking out.Likely fine,but heres what I did.I too a piece of round stock about a inch long,and center drilled it to the pin .od. I then cut sections about 3/8 inch long.They look like rings now.I pushed one on to the ends of the new shaft which is longer,and they fit like caps.I then MIG welded the open end of the cap to the pin.Done on each end that pin cant travel.Over all I liked the quality of the Macs parts,and the box is tight.

 

@irishsteve, do you have any pictures of the “rings” you installed?

Cliff Ramsdell

 

No I didn't,but it was straight forward.I had a piece of round stock about 1/2' od. I filed the ends flat on a 1 inch piece,and drilled a pilot from each end then drilled the hole the size of the pitman cross pin.I hack sawed two pieces off about 3/8'' tall.Drop one on your cross pin so it seats on the roller end ,and MIG,or TIG the ring to the end of the pin..Flip over,and repeat.I did it this way so if I ever had to rebuild it again I wouldn't have to grind the pitman shaft to free the pin.Simply grind the weld off the end of the ring,and the pin is free,and the shaft remains free from brutal grinding.Once you are ready drop the pitman in,and turn it to make sure the ends don't touch the box wall which it shouldn't,but if it did you can correct it with a file.Mine didn't need that as it all cleared in full turning range.You can also simply tack weld the cross pin as is commonly done.You just don't want the pin walking in the box.You might call Macs,and check stock on the steering shaft just to make sure they have it on hand.

 

If you go the route of getting a new worm without a shaft, it's fairly easy to remove and install them using a press. I've never used heat or ice and have done a few.
Some tips I can p*** on.....a quarter inch drive 7/16" deep socket works great for pressing the shaft out of the worm and a nut or thick washer welded somewhere close to the worm end of the shaft works great for supporting the shaft in the press when installing a new worm. If you don't want to do that, you can build up a stack of 2x4 blocks, spaced every few inches up to the worm for support. Drill a 3/4" hole in each block, except the bottom one, stack them and screw them together so they can't shift, slide the shaft down through that. Screw a nut onto the end of the shaft to protect the threads and let that sit on the bottom block, then press the worm on. Keep in mind the shaft will likely bend without good support. Good luck!

 

@Doublepumper , thanks, these are the tips I’m looking for. When you finished up did you cut the nut off later and blend it out?

I like that plan and have a press here in the shop so it gives me choices as I wasn’t happy with my last purchase from Mac’s (ecklers) so choices to don’t include a purchase from them helps me decide.

Thanks,
Cliff Ramsdell

 

The nut or washer can stay or be removed. It doesn't interfere with anything once everything has been ***embled.
Your only issue might be getting your press situated high enough to accommodate the length of the steering shaft. I simply modified mine with some spacer blocks to get it high enough from the floor to work on them. Low budget, but it works.