I am rebuilding a few stromberg 97's for the first time and am wondering if there is any tips or things I should do or not do. I've rebuilt alot of 94's but never ran into any good deals on 97's so I never had a chance to rebuild any until I found these big face 97's for dirt cheap. should I just treat it the same way I do when I rebuild 94's? Any tools i need to get?
1. Soak 'em for a long time (few days at least) before you start removing jets and fittings.....otherwise you might get some stripping 2. When you get to the center jet/valve, you will need to cut a slot into the blade of a large long-handled flat blade screwdriver to get it out (you'll see what I mean). Good Luck! Ben
Hello..take the air horn off and fill with good penetrating oil. Leave all the plugs in..Remember, penetrating oil needs to wick into the threads..I would let them set for days, if in no hurry a week or two.. Buy a complete kit with new jets and power valve and air fuel mixture screws...Replace ALL springs..You will have a new power valve, no need to cut notch in screwdriver, you'll need a full blade..When you start to remove parts make sure carb is secure in vise, parts come loose easier when the carb can't move..Start at the top (air horn) and the base will be last..Check throttle shaft for good fit... Good luck.. ps..Get a complete kit, not just gaskets..and exterior spring kit.. Duane
Make sure you remove the emulsion tubes for cleaning. This can be quite tricky and they can be damages quite easily if not done properly. Check out the flathead 32 to 53 message board for further info.
Buy a Stromberg jet wrench.....essential for removing the jets..... Also use a sheet of 360 or 400 wet and dry sandpaper on a pane of gl***.........smooth the casting surfaces on this before ***embly to insure that you have absolutely flat gasket surfaces....... Make sure that you get some kind of nylon jet plug gaskets, or other material that can compress a little when you reinstall them.......I used the red fiber ones in the common rebuild kits and every carb leaked at first......replaced them with nylon from Charlie Price at Vintage Speed and they've not leaked since...... http://www.vintagespeed.com/ That's the only ***** I have about Strombergs....a poor design to have those jet plugs on the bottom of the float chamber.....other than that, a simple and great carburetor! Brucie
Clean emulsion tubes and chambers are critical for proper fuel atomization! You can make yourself an emulsion tube puller. Go to the hardware store and buy a 6/32" tap, a 6/32"x1-1/2" screw, a 6/32" nut and a #10 flat-washer. Tap the lower ends of the tubes 3 or 4 turns, put the nut and washer on the screw and insert it into your newly tapped holes, then tighten the nut against the washer. Presto; out they come. . . Non-destructive removal of throttleshaft bushings in the base can be done the same way using a 5/16"x24 tap and collar too. . . If you're heavy-handed, an inch/pound torque screwdriver is a good idea for final ***embly.
I agree, money well spent. I do my own, but not with out the expence of a few "Oh ****s" during the learning process. The "new" stromberg stuff is very nice, but a have also been dealing with charlie price at www.vintage-speed.com for some time also. very good product. Drew
where do you get good stromberg rebuild kits from? Is there anyone in Ohio that rebuilds them or be willing to teach me? Im kind of a hands on learner, I'm thinkin someones going to have to show me before I go takin one of these apart. Thats the only thing about strombergs, If you screw one up you have to pay alot for another one if you can even find it. Ill stick them in a bucket of PB blaster or somethin and let them soak for a while. Thanks for all the info. Also what is your best way of putting aftermarket extended throttle shafts in 97s and 94's for progressive linkage kits??? Ive done it but they leak around the shaft.
If you're not going to stagger them like you would on a 4x2 or 6x2, there's really no need for extended throttleshafts, as long as you do-away with handthrottle provision; that'll leave plenty of room for linkage arms. New standard size (.275") throttleshafts and stainless bushings are available. You need to ream the bushings to .278"; that's .001" tighter than Ford spec and works well using PTFE as a lube for them to glide on. No need to drill the bases, after all, it's not the iron that wears out, but usually the shafts themselves and one or both bushings, especially when the i.d. of the bushing is rusty. My wife's husband has parts and kits. . .
Hello..The other time you'll need extensions is on a 3x2 SBC intake, just short ones..Uncle Max, is right..The only part I reuse are the emulsion tubes and if they are drilled out due alky use then they have to be replaced..you can do it..If you take it apart, you should be able to put is back together..Remember the kits come with diagram and instructions.. JUST DO IT ..Then, think of the feeling you have when completed and you can brag also........... I just finished this one for a friend, he wanted it to look almost stock and it's going on a 4 banger.. Enjoy. Duane
sounds like you might need a marriage counselor with that situation... so I need some new bushings to help my leaky shaft??....throttle shaft that is....
Steve, if you have trouble with your shafts leaking fuel, it may not be a bad installation but rather to much fuel pressure. The Strombergs don't like more than 1.5-2 PSI. and if the pressure is to high that's most generally where they start to leak.
Use the Grose jets sold by the guys making the new Stromberg carbs. Big improvement over the original needle and seat, with the added advantage of being able to run slightly more fuel pressure.
I agree, I send my carbs to a guy who has strictly been rebuilding carbs for the last 30+ years, one is an ex drag racer and has worked on Bonneville car to vintage aircraft , you can't buy good experience. Experience means knowing what jets to put in and where to set everything for the motor you are going to run. I get the new kits from Stromberg England to get them rebuilt right and that's after I clean them out myself. Just getting the corners tapped down right and filed flat to fit so you don't have leaks is an art itself.
Hello..A rubber mallet and gentle strikes to the air horns will get them flat.. I don't like using a file or sandpaper.. I personally don't like the new S jet ( Gose)???fuel inlet..I found that the ball wants to stick???? Float needs to hit the ball centered or ball might bind.. I'm not sure about using more fuel pressure..The 97 is designed for 2 to 2.5 psi..Like ****ster27 said..push fuel out the shafts.. Duane...
I'm using four of them on my Chrysler Hemi...none of them stick. I'm not talking a lot more pressure...just 3 to 3.5 psi total. The only place I really have any problems with leaks is a bit of a slow weep out of the jet plugs....guess I need to give those new nylon gaskets a try.
So 2-2.5 fuel pressure for a 97 but what about too much fuel pressure on a 94, could that cause leaking around throttle shafts too?
Hello..I forgot one of the best tools to have is gun cleaning brushes..All sizes and br***..Really good to have.. Wal-Mart.. $1.50 each.. Duane
oh, they aren't that big of a deal.......do them yourself....seriously....i don't know why everyone is so quick to "send them off" i don't have any gl*** bead for my cabinet but i have all the other tools to repair them.......you're welcome to make a trek down here and we can do it...2.5 hours away i have some extra parts, too, if we lose a spring or break something....... take everything apart, that you have tools for.......get them LIGHTLY bead blasted.....bring them down with some good kits.......either uncle max (heck of a nice guy!) or the 97 fella (haven't directly delt with him but hey, he's a HAMBR and always seems willing to help)......i have some of the nylon washers that uncle max sent to me (as a matter of fact, i owe him STILL!)......and come down..... i have extra jets just in case your has been drilled, extra emulsion tubes, shoot, i've got a lot of parts......lemme know...
ok well, since I last posted on this thread, ive acquired 4 more large logo stromberg 97s....I got a question about three of them that are still on a offy manifold with linkage air cleaners and extended throttle shafts, they are very clean carbs, been inside for years, not dirty or anything. they move perfect and the base arent rusty or anything, my question is, would there be a problem of just doing a clean up and throwing just a gasket kit in them and new accelerater pumps without taking all the jets and all the other stuff out???????
Now's the time to check them out, not after you go to all the trouble of installing them, only to find out there are problems. The very least you should do is strip them and remove the emulsion tubes; if they're blocked, and most of the time they are, since the chambers surrounding them are a catch-all for calcification and other nasty stuff, they'll never atomize the fuel properly. Go to the hardware store and buy a 6/32" tap, a 1-1/2" x 6-32 screw, a 6-32 nut and a #10 flat washer. Tap the ends of the emulsion tubes 3 or 4 turns, place the nut and washer on the screw, put the screw in your newly tapped holes and tighten it, then turn the nut against the washer and presto, out they come. It takes longer to type this than it does to do it! I also make sure the discharge jets are discharging, simply by installing the checkvalve, filling the well with denatured alcohol and using an old accelerator pump to give it a couple of pumps. Bases and throttleshafts along with new bushings are often overlooked, if they're not tight, you'll have idle and other performance issues. Get yourself some decent kits and then you can go onto final ***embly using some of the pointers the other guys have mentioned. 2 cents.
The emulsion tubes are right behind the main jets, accessed behind the the two outer bowl-plugs. They go through on a 45 degree angle, you can see the slashed ends protruding into the minor venturis. . . The discharge jets are those two little candy-cane br*** tubes, sometimes a ***** to remove and replace, but can be done with the right tools.
i took a bunch of pics of how to remove the emulsion tubes, yesterday.......i'll put it in a tech as soon as ryan says "go" on tech week...... i'm gonna try and make a homemade fuel level gauge too, so you can set the float properly ....all with bruce lancaster's brains... bruce and i started some in-depth techs about a year or so ago....but we basically completed the data about them, not how to rebuild them yet..... look back at my posts from about a year and a half ago....
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