say what do you guys recommend for engine oil for break in .. My fresh 241 hemi is almost completed and I like to know what brand oils with zinc added are good for break in . I believe VR1 has zinc in it . or just add the zinc additive to some good brand of oil . . Thanks ! john
Tons of opinions on this sublect. I used Comp Cams break in oil in my 327 because it was recommended by the cam manufacturer. There are several on the market, Joe Gibbs for sure. Do a search, there are many threads on the subject.
We use Edelbrock break in oil or Joe Gibbs Racing break in oil, and we add a bottle of zinc to it. Make sure that the zinc actually contains zinc as some don't. Don't use a high detergent oil as the detergent and the zinc are both polar molecules and are attracted to the cam vying for the same space. You want the high pressure qualities of the zinc to build a protective layer not the detergent. Jim (55willys)
I like the Brad Penn oil myself, both my drag cars have large flat tappet cams, and broke in fine a couple of years ago, using the Brad Penn.
I also use Brad Penn oil for all my flat tappet engines But Brad Penn also sells an oil specifically designed as engine break in oil, and it's a straight 30 wt. I use that when I'm breaking in a new engine. Brad Penn oil has zinc in it, plus 10% synthetic mix. It's about $6 a qt. locally, and considering other oils, plus buying ZDDP aadditive to a 5 qt. crankcase, it's a way cheaper and better alternative.
does the zinc additive have anything to do with break in, or is it prevent cam wear over the life of the engine?
From what I have read both. It prevents scuffing on first start up and during break in. Supposedly break in oil has more zinc than needed for the rest of the time.
Zinc is a vital additive needed through out the engines life, especially on start up and break in....Check out the website bobstheoilguy.com You can read and research all the things about oils and lubricant. Its hosted by oil engineers that dispel the myths of oil and what manufacturers don't really tell you since its a billion dollar business $$$$ They removed zinc about 1985 since the auto manufacturers were mandated by Government to increase the emission components life span, especially the cat converter by removing zinc. That left us finding other sources for oil that doesn't allow premature cam and engine wear on our flat tappet motors www.bobistheoilguy.com
You can buy ZDDP additive pretty reasonable on eBay and add it to you quality motor oil you choose to run. The above mentioned oil brands are formulated for racing applications. Racing oils have high detergents for extreme use and are spendy if your like me and don't need this type oil. I found ZDDP on eBay, 5 bottles for 35-40 dollars with free shipping. One bottle per oil change is all you need for a 5qts of oil and you good to go ellispreformancedistribution is the supplier I use
What he said... My first real post here. Looks like a nice site. Make sure your additive has ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) and not some other form of zinc in it. This additive is most important in motors running flat tappet cams. If you have a roller motor you can run any good old high quality motor oil of your choosing. I like Mobil 1 after a thorough break-in with (just my opinion), but for non-synthetics I have run Valvoline my whole life. If you don't like having to add additives, you can run Shell Rotella. It has ZDDP levels up near what oils had prior to the catalyst life issues. My company has "blown up" approximately 50 late-model GM engines (2010-2012) that were converted to run on natural gas. All the failures were identical. Cam bearing/cam journal failure. After working with the GM engineers they finally recommended running Shell Rotella as a fix. I'm responsible for around 40 engine-driven compressors ranging from 140 hp to 2600 hp and we have 9 gas turbines. These units run 24/7 unless they are down for service or breakdowns. We run Mobil oils in everything except one test unit running Brad Penn (soon switching to Mobil). No lube oil related failures to report. We do have a scheduled oil sampling program to keep an eye on things. You will love this. We have about six 1200-1400 hp units that only get their oil changed during overhauls, or if the oil gets contaminated with coolant. So we routinely go 12,000 hours or more (some way more) with no oil change. That's over 500,000 miles equivalent. Roadway used to not change the oil on their over-the-road trucks. Don't know if they are still doing this or not, this was 15 years ago.
I would rather rely on the oil manufacturers to formulate the correct amount of Zinc and phosphorous in there products then use an oil with Zinc and then add more Zinc to it. Too much Zinc is as harmful as not enough
On a flat tappet motor we have used Rotella T with a bottle of Lucas Break in additive thrown in for good measure. Then on every oil change for the rest of the motor's life we add half a bottle of the Lucas to the new oil. So far so good and when we pulled the last cam out it looked brand new after lots of miles. Don
Thanks guys ! lots of choices there.. my new reground cam is just a hydralic cam . what brand oils are available at your local auto parts store ? like oriely, advance auto etc? I know brad penn you can buy at a speed shop . the additive I can purchase at my local speed shop .
I get Lucas at aw shucks, Oriellys. Sometimes royal purple too. Otherwise, it's off to the speed shop for the others. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
VR1 is a good oil you can get local, most auto parts stores can order Comp cams oil or additive. Be sure to have the rpm high 1800 + to spray the cam with what ever oil you choose. Have everything close by so once started you can complete the total 18 to 20 minute break-in. Keep a garden hose close to cool the radiator if needed, DO NOT LET IT GET HOT. A good quality filter is as important as the oil choice, so choose wisely. Stick with a 10w30 or straight 30 weight oil, thick oils do not "splash" as well as thinner oils plus the extra drag on the oil drive systems is just wasted horse power. Here is a pretty story on engines and oils, http://www.hotrodandrestoration.com...20612&utm_source=Email&utm_medium=Enewsletter joe
I think one of the most important steps is to prelube the engine with an electric drill. That way the lifters are full and every part has oil dripping off of it. When you hit the key and it starts there is no dryness on any of the parts and you also know you will have oil pressure because you saw it when you spun the drill. Some people leave the break in oil in there for some miles but I like to drain it immediately after the half hour break in period and change the filter too. Lots of stuff gets washed loose from the machining process. I am thinking of buying an oil filter cutter so I can inspect the contents of the filter too, they look pretty helpful. Don
I don't know how relevant this would be today, but 'back in the day', circa late-60's-early-70's, an old, local racer and race engine builder I used to know had a special and very specific oil combination that he used to use for all of his own and his customers race engine builds for break in that he swore by and was almost religious about As I remember it, for a typical small block Chevy race engine build, he would (assuming the use of a stock 4 qt. capacity Chevy oil pan and standard 1 qt capacity oil filter) he'd over-fill the crankcase by 1 quart, using a mixture 5 quarts of straight 30 weight Shell Rotella, which was specificity formulated for use in two-stroke Detroit Diesel engines, which were common at the time (he was fanatical about specifically using only straight 30 weight and only and specifically, the two-stroke Detroit Diesel formulated 30 weight Rotella) - and then add half a quart of GM Dexron ATF and half a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. (['m not sure what the supposed purpose of the additional half qt. of ATF and half qt. of MMO was, but he swore by that as part of his break in regimen. With the oil in, he'd then pre-lube the engine using an electric drill and a dummy distributor with the teeth ground off of the drive gear, until there was oil pressure and oil was squirting out of the pushrods. He'd then button everything up, drop the real distributor in and fire the engine up. He';d run it a steady 2000 rpm for about half an hour to break in the cam. After that, he'd change the filter, but not the oil - merely adding additional oil as required. Then he'd run the engine again - for about 4 or 5 hours at varying and ever increasing speeds, to complete the break in. Then he'd change the oil and filter and fill the crankcase with 5 qts. of 20W50 Castrol GTX (his oil of choice for everything except initial break in) and either pop the engine into his own Mod/Prod 55 Chevy race car, or send it out the door to one if his customers. I don't know how much his specific break in regimen contributed to the success and the longevity of his engines, but he built good stuff and he was the local "go to" engine guy for all the local hot shot racers. Mart3406 =================
my engine machine shop guys tell me all I need is Brad penn break-in oil for the start up......... no other additives are needed with a hyd cam and all. of course I will prime the engine prior to firing it up.
Even Lake Speed Jr. who is Joe Gibbs main oil tech says to break in your engine with crap dinosaur oil and a zinc additive. After break in change oil and filter, run more crap oil, after 100 miles change oil and filter then run what you oil you want. Even if you are planning to run full synthetic it is pointless to waist the money on synthetic or other fancy oil and the seals wont have time to get acclimated to it with in 100 miles.
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