Ok, so there is an engine builder that has told me that he will sell me a rebuilt Chevy 350 long block with centerbolt valve cover heads for $900.00 plus tax, no core needed. Is that a good price? I have to assume for that price, the rebuild will include only what is necessary. Gaskets and Rings and Bearings, but if it does not need to be bored then??? What do you think? Can I do it myself for that price? I usually build Fords so I am not sure what I'd have in a SBC. timmer
Not a bad price but probably rebuilt using Chinese parts. Whether or not you can do it yourself depends on if you have a good core or not and what it will need. If it needs boring, new pistons, complete valve job including new guides, a few valves, new springs, etc and you ad in a new cam & lifters, oil pump, reground crank, etc. you're gonna be well over the $900 number unless you use Chinese parts. It's a no win situation when you try to do an engine on a low budget. Look into a GM reman and see how much more it is. Northern Auto Parts used to also make a very reasonably complete overhaul kit that was all US parts but again, it depends on whether or not you have a good core to build up.
Ask him what you will get for $900. bucks. I suggest you talk to friends and find out who they trust.. Most of the time you get what you pay for.....
Seems pretty reasonable, I bought them for more than that ten years ago. If there is any kind of warranty, it's a steal. On second thought, I've seen guys at filthy salvage yards throwing rings and bearings in engines. May not have measured anything, just throw new bearings in it just to turn a buck.
sometimes cheap is ...well...not so cheap. i pay more than that for my parts and only do it once. it's hard to pull an engine the second time around, knowing you just shit 900 bucks.
I've always enjoyed rebuilding my own engines, and when you're the one doing it, you know exactly what went into them. Seeing that it's a small block Chevy, the world's cheapest engine to rebuild, I'd do it myself and put the $900 into the best internals that the budget would allow.
rings and bearings is an overhaul. rebuilt includes machine work. I paid $1500.00 for a rebuilt 350 a few years back. bored, crank turned, heads done, cam, chain, oil pump, and assembly. no cheapo parts, all good stuff.
Watco in Houston probably does them for that or a bit less. I know their short block is under $500, but does not include lifters. They do bore every block and turn every crank and use new cams, oil pumps, timing sets, and they come with the rest of the gasket set. We've used many of them, great deal! I'm sure the shop you talked to is similar, but I can only guess on their reputation. Have you had any previous experience with them?
Summit racing has a GM Goodwrench 350/260HP Long block for $1589.95 $900 is a good price, but you don't know what they are building it with. I would find someone that you can trust and buy the parts yourself that you want in it.JMO
I build all my own engines. I have them machined locally and buy a lot of parts off ebay to save money. I built an aluminum headed stroker 385 for $2600(balanced and all new). I can still build a warmed over small block chevy 350 with $1500.oo.
I know guys, my gut has been telling me "run like hell" and my wallet is saying, "talk to him some more. Find out what he does to the engine." I guess a phone call is cheap. But, I'd rather rebuild the engine myself. The problem is finding a decent core in my area due in part to the "CASH FOR CLUNKERS" program. Damn, it has sure taken a bite out of the hobby!!! All those perfectly good truck and SUV engines that were destroyed. timmer
$900 would be a good price if built good, seems i usually spend around $1000 for machine work and parts to rebuild a longblock myself, and that's with not using anything special basic mid-grade part
If you build fords, slide to the dark side and see why you've been missing. If it seems too easy have a coupla boiler makers and give er a whirl. $1200 should do a quality job with machining.
Can't have much performance there for that price! Every car I have ever owned has had an SBC. I have had millions of SBC engines used to buy them for cheap and rebuild 'em in high school because I didn't have a shop class. I know 'em quit well. But I have never build any SBC for $900.00 that seems way to low. A decent set of cylinder heads alone would cost more than that. I would tell your wallet to shut up but thats just me. It may be a good running motor but is probably shy in the power/torque department.
it's too low a price to me. depends on what you want. me i don't trust no one. there are many things to consider. clean/bore/cam & main bearings / re size rods/arp bolts/new pistons/rings/oil pump. crank turned/ or just polished. cam lifters / timing chain/ re build gasket set. assembled correct. 900 seems short a few ben's. valve job or heads/ push rods still more. i prefer to rebuild them myself. crate motors, some one using cheaper parts and not knowing what to look for just taking them out of box, let alone assembling them out of specs anyway. consider doing it your self, from what you have said your could consider doing it. it's all a crap shoot anyway. good luck!
FYI I just purchase this engine , runs awesome in my old pickup.. http://www.hiperformer.com/featured_engines/chv_350lb_4.html Desert
A stock rebuild kit from enginetech costs my rebuilder $150 roughly before shipping. That includes pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, cam, lifters, timing set, oil pum, and expansion plugs. If the guy has a 350 non roller, 2 piece main seal, 2 bolt core cheap (my engine builder buys them for $100-250), hes making at least $500 for the machine work and assembly. There is a volume engine builder here in toronto that sells this exact motor for $1050 with no core. Sometimes they are on sale for $950. I won't say theses are great motors, but they are fine if you want something just to throw into a vehicle to get it running.
not true... GM Fast Burns $670 a pair complete, best bang for the buck out there. Just trying to keep the misinformation to a minimum.
I agree, you don't have to have "forged this, ARP that, titanium this", for a driver...it'll still run 150K miles. That said, it most likely NOT the choice to start with for a performance engine.
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