So here is the deal, I removed a fresh 8" ford rear out of my 64 Fairlane to replace it with a 9". Now I am building my roadster, and want to use it cause hey its free! I want to weld on some attachments and run the factory A rear spring with slightly split radius rods and tube shocks. I would like to keep things as inboard as possible since I am running fenderless. What would be better a third link parallel to the drive shaft or a panhard bar perpendicular to the drive shaft? What year and model rear radius rods should I use? Where should I mount the rods and shocks? (inboard or outboard of the factory A spring) Should any of the components share a mount? (ie. spring and radius rods mount at same location, or all three at the same welded on mount) As always pictures would be great, if you have a similar set up.
Not sure it matters but here are the drive train specs: Low horse power 48 flathead connected to a s10 T5, running ford backing plates and Buick drums up front, plan to use the factory Fairlane drums out back.
I have the exact setup in my fauxdster. 67 fairylane rear, welded mounts to accommodate the A rear spring, split bones that mount to the welded mounts too. Also got tube shocks and a third link that runs from the top of the pumpkin to the same axis mount point as the split rods. Some guys were naysayers, but it works fine. I regularly check it all for any signs or cracking or stress, none found. Check my build thread in my signature.
Thanks for the help. In the fashion of true hot rodding (or I am just broke), trying to use what I have laying around.
Use something like the Pete & Jake ladder bars to locate the rear axle,the rear bones were designed to use a torque tube. HRP
I did just what '36-3window suggested in my '32 Highboy. It is not exactly "traditional" as gauged by hard-core HAMBers, but it is plenty reliable, will handle up to 400H.P. and has been used since who knows when. My rearend is held fast with SoCal ladder bars which taper toward the small crossmember with urethane bushings with about an 8" spread. All of this stuff is hidden when you finish, so as far as being "zero cool", who gives a shit other than the commenter ahead of me. Whatever spring you choose to use is personal choice. If you are considering a posi-trac pumpkin, don't use an 8" because there are no used ones to choose from, yet 9" posi units can be found rather cheaply. Sometimes these "traditionalists" get a bit separated from reality.
I understand the principle of the factory radius rods and torque tube, however I was looking for a way to use the radius rods and add a torque member to replace the torque tube when running open drive rear.
Thanks for the reply, I am unsure on the "zero cool", I do love the look of a banjo or a quick change but its hard to justify with the 8" in the corner of the garage. Posi shouldn't be an issue, I plan on building a low hp cruiser so I am fine with the open 300 gears that are currently in it.
Hey, HRP, you are the first HAMBer who has questioned using rear bones ('35-'36 Ford, I presume ?) without the torque tube. I remember a rodder who used them under his '32 Vicky with a fire-breathing small-block. During a burnout, the entire rearend came out from under the car, seriously damaging his beautiful ride. I have seen many cars so equipped, but I too think it is a recipe for disaster. That old torque tube had its place with banjos.
poboyross put the strength back into his 'bones which was lost when the torque tube was removed. Using the same axis point as his split 'bones, he literally created a 3-bar setup. Everything travels in the same plane, just like Pete and Jakes 4-bar. VERY creative.
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