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Reference for a '32 Ford 5 Window.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JeffreyJames, Aug 24, 2009.

  1. Minewithnoshine
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 938

    Minewithnoshine
    Member

    No one knows when they'll be released. The dashboards are the next thing to come out, I'd say it'll be a few months at least. The bodies they're saying early next year. The subrails are complete with rockers, much better solution than Brookville.
     
  2. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Ok I am officially starting my 5w this weekend Saturday so I have some more questions!!!

    Let talk rear halves. I am using Roadster quarters (all of them and not just the belt line down). So what parts should I be looking for in terms of fitting everything to my 5w? The panels above and below the deck-lid are the ones really in question.

    So Roadster quarters....
    [​IMG]

    I seen from another HAMB member that the roadster panel that goes above the deck lid needs to be sectioned so that the actual deck lid moves up towards the roof.
    [​IMG]

    So just saying that makes me think that a 5w panel below the deck lid would be taller. Is this correct? Would it be crazy to run a roadster panel if the price was right? Or should I seek out the correct one?


    Rear Quarter Braces? Will the roadster ones work and tie in just fine?

    My first step this weekend is going to be bracing the body with the doors on and then start scrubbing some of that Fe2O3.nH2O (rust..shhhh) off and getting the body ready for the Tig torch. I am going to be asking a shit ton of questions so get your cameras ready and your thinking caps on!
     
  3. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Ok here's a question foe minwithnoshine. How much is Uapac charging for that panel below the decklid? All the bracing is in place?
     
  4. So you finished the 35?
     
  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,279

    F&J
    Member

    Are you talking the 4 braces that attach to the drip tray that runs around the deck lid opening?

    If so, I'd just make them out of rect tubing. Mine were cut off at the bottom during the channeling, so I am adding 4 short pieces, now that it is unchanneled.

    advice not asked for: Don't get too buried in small details on a big job. No one will notice or care about those braces on a hot rod. IMO
     
  6. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Yeah I'm Driving it as we speak.....Vrooom Vroom!
     
  7. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY


    Thanks man, that is good advice. I was just asking in case i found them at the swap next weekend. But yeah I plan on making a ton of stuff for the car instead of getting worried about things that I'll never see.

    I'm going to make what ever doesn't make sense to spend a lot of money on. That's the goal at least.
     
  8. DICK SPADARO
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,887

    DICK SPADARO
    Member Emeritus

    This is a pretty big project for a coupe conversion, rather than cut up the roadster panels sell them to someone that can use them and purchase the correct 32 5w units. I may have a sample for Autofair.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. deuceman32
    Joined: Oct 23, 2007
    Posts: 527

    deuceman32
    Member

    So-Cal Sacramento shows that panel at $299 on feebay. Check item 250736614928 for pics and info.
     
  10. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Dick are you talking about the quarters as well or just the above and below?
     
  11. Minewithnoshine
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 938

    Minewithnoshine
    Member

    Yep, $300 for that panel below the decklid, all bracing is included as well.
     
  12. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Cool. I'll have to scoop one up when I sell my Edelbrock Super Dual.
     
  13. DICK SPADARO
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,887

    DICK SPADARO
    Member Emeritus

    That lower 5w deck panel is not new its been US made for years, Comes as individual pieces, lower deck skin and upper stiffener, vertical support, tail pan extension. Around $280 for everything.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  14. wingman9
    Joined: Dec 30, 2009
    Posts: 804

    wingman9
    Member
    from left coast

    JJ and others doing the same thing. I'm amazed and filled with admiration at your dedication when I see what you started with. I'm currently redoing a '32 Chevy 5-window and I've run into some wood issues but any rust on this car was only surface rust. The frame still had the original paint and zinc primer on about 3/4s of it. It's tough enough trying to bring something like this back to life without all the obstacles you guys are facing. Keep on doin' what you're doin'.
     
  15. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Thanks Wingman9!!! Funny because I actually got rid of one of the nicest '31 Chevy coupe with perfect wood and zero rust to build this car....go figure! I definitely need to keep my sanity on this one and I'll keep all of you posted as I normally do.

    Thanks Dick, I'll stop by at the Auto Fair and see what goodies you have.
     
  16. Brookville offers the below deck lid panel for a 5W coupe,,HRP

    <table width="100%" border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr valign="top"><td width="33%">B-363
    </td> <td width="33%">5-Window Coupe Below Deck Lid Panel
    </td> <td width="33%">$55.00 ea
    </td></tr></tbody></table>
     
  17. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,279

    F&J
    Member


    Now that's better. 55 bucks to get a piece that will help align things.

    I have not seen the repro pieces like were mentioned, but the tailpan extension could be eliminated by making your own floors, if that's what you want. The vertical support could be made as well. The horizontal upper maybe could be fabbed with moderate skills.

    I'd grab the outer skin and then try to get a decklid to get started, before spending your lifes savings at the very start.


    Can you salvage any of the drip rail parts that go around the decklid? Or, maybe your metal guy can fab that stuff too.
     
  18. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY


    Now that's the type of mindset I need to be in! I'm going to bring my crushed quarters to the shop and see if anything can be salvaged. I think I could definitely buy that $55.00 tail pan and fab the rest. The talk that me and Daemon had (metal wizard) was that we would buy anything that that wasn't going to break the bank and would also be more time consuming to make then just buy. So obviously that back tail pan would take more then $55 worth of work to make so that's a no brainer. But the braces and such could definitely be made in a day at our shop.

    I wish I could get some really clear and large pics of the above and below the deck panels. What would be really helpful is if someone had a 5w here in Charlotte that we could take measurements and stare at.

    Calling Brookville tomorrow!
     
  19. Minewithnoshine
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 938

    Minewithnoshine
    Member

    Here's some shots of the UAPAC one just for fun.

    Call me lazy, but starting with this one helps a LOT more for aligning everything up correctly, plus after seeing one of Brookvilles, I'm glad I went with this one.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  20. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Why thank you my good man. You are a gentleman and a scholar!!! Make sure you hit me up when you get to the party. We have lots to talk about!!!!
     
  21. Minewithnoshine
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 938

    Minewithnoshine
    Member

  22. Mr64
    Joined: Jun 28, 2007
    Posts: 98

    Mr64
    Member

    Is the below the decklid panel welded on or did it come from the factory bolted on? In other words, was it originally made to be easily removeable/replaceable? Looks like it has holes for bolts on the sides but the floor extention part is making me think that part got welded.
     
  23. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,279

    F&J
    Member


    The whole assembled rear panel is welded together with the parts listed earlier in this thread. But then the whole thing bolts to the quarters, as well as bolts to the back edge of the long rear floorpan.

    So yes it is easily removed from a car without cutting or drilling.
     
  24. The brookville lower boot panel is not the greatest, the little up-sweep features in the corners are not the same...........and it shits me. I will have to fix them.
    I can post a pic if you want to see it......the panel that is :)
    The panel above the boot is a pricey panel, you would be better off making that section.
     
  25. Minewithnoshine
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 938

    Minewithnoshine
    Member

    Exactly, the Brookville one is not correct for a 5W even though the sell it as stating that it is.
     
  26. Don't tease me like that jerk!

    when will that be....;)
     
  27. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Once it get's back from the polisher of course.
     
  28. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

  29. slepe67
    Joined: Jan 22, 2008
    Posts: 1,146

    slepe67
    Member

  30. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,279

    F&J
    Member

    JJ, your crew probably is up on decklid fit problems, but I just thought to say where I had big problems before I found out what was wrong:

    On a channeled car with braces cut out under the deck areas; my upper panel in front of the lid was sagged down a bit. That made the lid curve wrong for the body, and on mine, the sides of the quarters were bulged out between the door and rear wheel. Like it was squished down on the back of the roof.

    To make it worse, the upper rear deck panel was shifted a bit to one side. That made the side gaps angled, not even, along the lid. If that upper panel and rear back edge of the roof is not perfectly centered before rebuild, then you can't fix the decklid side gaps without shifting the rear tail of the body over...and that really looks bad.
     

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