Regarding Oil Types in Old Engines

Realtor11 · Sep 23, 2009

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; ch****t=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Do***ent"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 12"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 12"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJeff%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><link rel="themeData" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJeff%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_themedata.thmx"><link rel="colorSchemeMapping" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJeff%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_colorschememapping.xml"><style>  </style> When visiting with my wife's family this weekend her uncle brought up to me a question:
Why don't you run full synthetic in your 49's oil and rear end. My only response was that I had run traditional oil weights and types since I rebuilt both in 1997. He swears by changing over even now, but I'm worried about switching things up on a Dodge Flat 6 (230 bored .30 over).
Do you guys have any thoughts on advantages, warnings or experiences?

...and thanks for your time!

jamesgs4 · Sep 23, 2009

yes and no.

Realtor11 · Sep 23, 2009

Yes and No was where I am at right now LOL - thanks

wvenfield · Sep 23, 2009

Good bad or otherwise I'm not going to get my moneys worth out of a synthetic.

I'm still changing it after 3000 miles and in the spring regardless so I see no need for synthetic.

I'm not as diligent with the rear BUT I've never had a rear go out on me.

Realtor11 · Sep 23, 2009

That was where I was on it too... if the oil is changed why go synthetic... but this guy has been doing rods and customs since the 50's ans swears by the magic in the synthetic... My new cars run on synthetic, but that's the way they came from the factory. I was wondering if there really was an advantage.

FrozenMerc · Sep 23, 2009

The only advantage I know of is that you can go 6 months between oil changes on a daily driver with synthetic. If you drive your '49 more than 10,000 miles a year, it might be worth it. But for those of use that live in the frozen north land and can only cram in a couple of thousand miles during the 2 weeks of summer, it isn't worth it.

Special Ed · Sep 23, 2009

Realtor11 said: ↑

That was where I was on it too... if the oil is changed why go synthetic... but this guy has been doing rods and customs since the 50's ans swears by the magic in the synthetic... My new cars run on synthetic, but that's the way they came from the factory. I was wondering if there really was an advantage.
Click to expand...

Of course there is an advantage. Why do you suppose that new cars require it, and that new engines now last for a couple of hundred thousand miles?

Billet · Sep 23, 2009

Wow, ok I'll stick my neck out and answer Hell No- What would be the advantage? Unforunately choosing to run our old engines with any of the modern oils are leaving "us" lacking some of the additives our older engines required to provide proper lubrication. I need to get up and buy ZDDP from one of the Alliance vendors. It seems that the new oils are not backward compatible. This situation may leave our engines orphaned without screwing around with treatments. The differential is another question- would using modern synthetic offer any advantages- I've continued to use conventional lubrication without any issues. But of course- I'm a idiot and you should suit yourself-
Good Luck

29nash · Sep 23, 2009

Hell no; It's the technology of the machine, not the oil. Modern motors also run at a much higher temperature, many with 230 degree thermostats, so synthetic oil is necessary. Did I say, Hell no? It's absolutely no advantage to put synthetic oil in an old design motor where coolant temperature averages less than 200 degreesF. Way back in the early thirties, SAE tests were conducted, including destructive tests, to develop motor oils that did the job. Modern man ain't any smarter than he was then. Yes, synthetic will do the job, at an (unnecessary) higher cost.

Special Ed · Sep 23, 2009

It ain't about the oil. It's the additives. Bob Lancaster, the founder of Torco Oil was a dear friend of mine. He literally wrote the book on oil. He gave me a copy of it. And your source is...?

zombiesarebad · Sep 23, 2009

I work in a lube shop (AOCA certified... believe it brother!) one or two days a week AND i'm taking college chemistry, so this may be a rare occasion that i can offer some insight that's actually worth something. According to what we're taught, petroleum based oils have an imperfect molecular structure... picture it as a bunch of ball bearings but with some marbles and gold balls mixed in. Synthetic oil- from what we're told- is man made to be just the ball bearings, which makes it a better lubricant. Its stability also makes it perform better under extreme temperatures. Also, what you hear about switching back and forth between synthetic and conventional being bad for your engine is pure myth. There's no reason at all that could do any damage. So overall yeah, it's better, but how much better? If you change your oil often, maybe not enough to make it worth the money.

on the other hand, i wouldn't use synthetic on a new rebuild since you want some friction during the break-in period. I've also heard (i wouldn't consider it fact though) that you don't want to use synthetic in anything with roller lifters since it supposedly lubricates so well that the rollers don't roll. Lastly, according to the "QuickLube Guide" most synthetic oils will chemically attack RTV sealant.

that's what i think i know about that.

Frankie47 · Sep 23, 2009

Billet said: ↑

Wow, ok I'll stick my neck out and answer Hell No- What would be the advantage? Unforunately choosing to run our old engines with any of the modern oils are leaving "us" lacking some of the additives our older engines required to provide proper lubrication. I need to get up and buy ZDDP from one of the Alliance vendors. It seems that the new oils are not backward compatible. This situation may leave our engines orphaned without screwing around with treatments. The differential is another question- would using modern synthetic offer any advantages- I've continued to use conventional lubrication without any issues. But of course- I'm a idiot and you should suit yourself-
Good Luck
Click to expand...

Our old 230s need zinc..tappets and camshaft. I was told it only applied to break in periods but...Rotella for me and if you can't get it there big rig oils are rich in zinc.

wvenfield · Sep 23, 2009

I don't know enough to say that there is no advantage to a synthetic.

I will say that engines lasting 250,000 miles today have much more than just synthentic oil to thank for that. Better metallugy. Closer tolerances. The applied knowledge of the last 100 years, all play a role.

plym49 · Sep 23, 2009

Frankie47 said: ↑

Our old 230s need zinc..tappets and camshaft. I was told it only applied to break in periods but...Rotella for me and if you can't get it there big rig oils are rich in zinc.
Click to expand...

The old MoPar flat sixes do not have enough valve spring pressure to get your knickers in a knot over the ZDDP issue.

My rule of thumb is this: if the engine is leaking oil, burning oil, or up there in terms of overall wear, I use conventional oils due to cost. Else, I use synthetic.

Similarly, unless your ****** or rear end is leaking, then you are better off sith synthetics. These lubricants are not changed that often (so cost is less of an issue) and the synthetic will give you a wear and mileage benefit.

Realtor11 · Sep 23, 2009

...I seriously doubt that any of us H.A.M.B.'ers own a car that might leak LOL!

and your point is very well taken!

"My rule of thumb is this: if the engine is leaking oil, burning oil, or up there in terms of overall wear, I use conventional oils due to cost. Else, I use synthetic.

Similarly, unless your ****** or rear end is leaking, then you are better off sith synthetics. These lubricants are not changed that often (so cost is less of an issue) and the synthetic will give you a wear and mileage benefit."

Mo$4Ford · Sep 23, 2009

Valvoline VR1 is designed for our engines with flat tappet cams, and race engines. Has ZDDP. Works in my 38 Flathead fine.
phscollectorcarworld.com mentions Union 76 HIgh Performance Motor Oil, Kendall GT-1 High Performance Motor Oil 20W50 and Phillips TropArtic Racing Motor Oil 20W50 are being reformulated more ZDDP back in March 1, 2009.

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Regarding Oil Types in Old Engines

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