I am using a set of '36 rear radius rods on my T with a 9" rear end. A lot has been said about the lack of strength without the torque tube of the original rear. I really like the look of the radius rods alone, but am thinking of strengthing them. Below is a section of a picture I lifted from the HAMB. How much strength does this add? Could it be strong enough on a T with wide fives on the rear and a 289 w/ aod trans? I will try and use a torque rod if I can, but I don't think I will have the room, as I know it must pivot at the same location as the radius rods. Strengthing the radius rod takes away from the look, but I want the car to be safe. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
same thing, used them on my model a coupe and have actually bend them , been thinking of welding a plate full lenght on the insdie where you wouldn't see it
install a torque arm similar to this with the front mounted to a movable "shackle" to allow some for-aft movement and it won't need to be the same length as the radius rods. http://www.wolferacecraft.com/install/fbod/fbodtqarm.aspx
True, the weakest link in the chain thing. Of course the idea is to not exceed that weakest points breaking point. So in this case I want to add another "chain" to the works.
The Rolling Bones have a pretty elegant solution to this, at least it's nice enough for me to steal. Look on their websight, or check out the recent story in Street Rodder. sorry, don't know how to post links yet...
I thought of something like that also. Mine will be outside the frame and body so I was hoping to go with something less noticable. Wow you wouldn't believe what comes up when you type "the rolling bones" in a search engine. I****ume you mean Rolling Bones Hot Rod Shop? Couldn't find anything on there, but I didn't sign up to be member either. I usually just click on the link in the web browser to highlight it then copy it to the clip board, then just paste it to the text here. Like this: http://www.rollingboneshotrodshop.com/
Why not consider a torque arm? Hot Rod Works has one that is easy to install. http://hotrodworks.com/shopexd.asp@id=6.html
As I stated in my original post I will try to use one. (I used "torque rod" instead of torque arm). I believe that if I use the rod/arm the body will interfere. I have not verified that yet however. I just wanted some other options, which you and others are giving me. The torque arm will be my first choice. However if I have to strengthen the rods I want it to look as good as possible.
I used 36 radius rods and reinforced them by adding an upper link similar to Pete & Jakes ladder bars, which I am replacing in my roadster. I got the idea from an earlier post on here (can't remember who). This set-up will not require any torque arm as it is stronger than a P&J set-up. One other thing you can do to strengthen the stock bones - what I had to do to mine because they were badly rusted out - is to split them lengthwise and replace the lower part with a piece of DOM tubing 1.25" OD, .120WT. And weld everything up again. I used a solid 2"long piece inside the tube where it joins the forged piece to allow me to build the weld up without burning through. Was a LOT of work...
This is how I tackled the issue. It won't work everywhere but in my application it works good. You are trying to limit/stop the natural twist from torque created by the rear motion and traction. So if you figure this out then you can be successful no matter how you do it. Under the front point is is reinforced with flat bar to create a fish plate. You can't see it here. This is an under construction shot, for the sticklers out there I cleaned it up and gusseted the frame and boxed everything before driving it. SWISSMIKES is one clean deal for sure, when I do my Roadster rear I will do something more like his. Good Luck, Tim
Very nice!! That will be very similar to how I will do it if I have to go that route. I am hoping to get away from the ladder bar type look however. Mine appear to be pretty solid, but opening them up and adding the dom may be a good idea anyway. Thanks, That gives me some ideas. Mine however are spread and attach below the frame rails.
Here is my last set I made from scratch to replace my stockers before I hurt myself.....They have gone 10.89 down the strip so far....Littleman
Kiwi Kev, I thank you. That looks great and won't detract from the looks of the bones at all. I'm not planning on any strip action so I don't think I need to make new ones, but I like the idea. I may still use a torque arm for added piece of mind. I believe that with the light weight of the T and with the narrow tires I plan on using and with what Kiwi showed, I would be fine however. Could do some controlled attempt to break them and see how they do.