my coupe's battery is located under the body (off the frame rail) and there is an access panel to get to it through the floor (to replace it), but its not accessible for a simple jump start because of where the seat bolts in place. I need to be able to jump start it (while out and the off chance the battery dies). I know I have options, but not sure what makes the most sense. Does anyone have experience with remote terminals or other suggestions. I am sure I could reconfigure the trap door in my floor, but the setup works fine now, and I am thinking a simplier option (like remote terminals) maybe be the way to go. Let me know if HAMB'rs have any ideas. And yes, this is a rebirth of a previous post I started and never got anywhere.... hoping for some fresh eyes and fresh ideas.
My new car has battery in the trunk and under the hood is a remote terminal that just runs from the starter to the inner fender. It's a simple setup that wouldn't require you to do anything but run a short cable. You could put the terminal on the firewall, frame rail, or other nearly hidden spot. For emergency jumping you don't need a ground terminal, you just ground the jumper cable to the engine anyway. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Most modern cars have remote jump start points, because of smart charging systems and the places they mount the batteries these days you can't always jump start off the battery. I'm sure you could buy the terminals etc from an aftermarket supplier but I think the easiest thing would be to go to a wrecker and get the whole lot off a late model car.
on my truck i mounted the battery under the electric dump bed so i needed a way to jump it if it ever died. i mounted a "tow truck" style jumper cables to it. it is a set of cables that have a quick connect plug.
so with the remote terminals above..... how do I mount them to my battery? Giant gauge wire and connect it to the battery terminals? This is where I get confused.
^^^^^^^^^using quick disconnect terminals like shown above is one good way to do it. They are available from several sources in various amp capacities. I use them on my truck/trailer to power my winch rather than have a battery on the trailer. Ray
hey HOTRODPRIMER and HNSTRAY how did you wire those remote terminals..... what guage wire and how did you connect to the battery?
I bought the correct size lengths of wires from a battery and starter shop,it's the same gauge as your regular positive and negative battery cables. The shop I bought mine from added the terminal end that attaches to the remotes and the other ends attaches to the battery. HRP
HRPs connectors are the way I went on Beulah -- she had a outlet box on the front bumper, above the licence plate where I plugged in my 30ft 00 guage weldin cable jumpers -- started up semis several times - and anything else I come across needin a jump [ never had to raise my hood and didn't haveta manuver to git beside or in front of to DO it either ] the box on the left, w the red [ positive ] door in this pic is the "jumper" box -- also had a powerfull floodlite on 30ft cable of it's own that plugged in there to be able to work "over the side" TCs ] the littl red lite on top of the box would indicate "power ON" for collision safety -- the box to the right was plug in recepticals for battery chargin and engine heater
The short answer for the front of the truck is an approximately 24" pigtail of #1 welding cable with copper lug terminals for attachment to the battery posts, and the quick disconnect terminal on the other end. I have a longer jumper cable set with heavy duty clamps on one end and the quick disconnect on the other end. In my case, this setup is more for jumping another vehicle from the truck than for the truck itself, although it will work either way. For the winch on my trailer, I used a Warn winch cable kit. I have a continuous duty solenoid under the hood wired to the battery hot side and a dash mounted toggle to turn the solenoid on and off. The cable from the solenoid runs the length of the truck ch***is and into the bed and has about 4' of pigtail with another quick disconnect terminal. There is also an full length ground cable that runs along with the hot cable. The winch on the trailer has a short pigtail with a quick disconnect terminal. Sounds more complicated than it is. In your situation, I think a short section of cable(s) attached to the battery at one end and with a quick disconnect at the other, just like the photo in the post #7 above, is sufficient for your purposes. I would then carry a jumper cable set with clamps and quick disconnect. You could, of course, use terminals as shown in HRP's post #4 above and I think that would be the 'cleanest', easiest to incorporate and would be universal for common jumper cables. If all I wanted on my truck was to jump start it in case of a dead battery, that's the setup I think I would look toward. Ray
I have these^^^^^^^mounted under my running board on the right side. Regular battery cable used for both positive and ground. Works great. Stu
Those Anderson plugs are a good idea. I already have a set similar to HRP, Ron Francis I think?, that I planned to mount to ch***is rails as I've no idea yet where battery is going.
I made up a set of jumper leads like that but on the end added the posts and not the anderson plug that way I can double the length and places I can get to to jump start many different things. I have even Jump started vehicles with the battery in the boot backed up to a wall whilst I was parked in front of them. MGStumpy you can buy those posts in Australia.
I'm going to opt for the plug set / custom cable next time. My local Interstate shop is stocked full of charging plug sets made for electric golf carts. Those plugs are the same ones Moroso sells for race cars, but at 1/3 the price. I had the big br*** terminals on my 37 but I didn't mount them in a very smart location and was always worried that if I had to use them the jumper cable clamps might also accidentally hit the body or even each other. If I went that route again, I'd put the posts a little further apart from each other. Gary
When I mounted my jumpstart plugin box I considered the possibility of *this* happeneing and used a Ford starter solonoide w a blinkin red led and beeper on the dash when switched ON to "activate" the B+ cable as needed -- GOOD thing I did hey? otherwise Beulah would have been consumed by fire from the shorting out of the B+ cable on impact -- in hindsight IF I had only MADE the HD pushbars I'd envisioned for her years ago -- Beulah might still be alive
The Hot Rod Co. an Alliance vendor here on HAMB, sells the terminals like HRP shows, and a bracket. I reshaped it a bit and mounted on the firewall, as I build my cars where you can reach **** without some of the contortions required in many hot rods with "clean" firewalls. From the trunk mounted battery, I ran a ground cable from pos bat. post to a body bolt that screws 1/2" into steel body mount welded to the frame. For hot side from positive battery post, I ran OO welding cable, which is bigger than needed, but I already had it, along rt. frame rail to the starter solenoid terminal. I installed about 6 different ground wires to the engine, bell hsg.,and trans., and one O cable to the neg post on that bracket down to bell hsg. attachment bolt. bolt. Also several lighter gauge wires, frame to body. You can't have too many ground wires, IMO. For the hot side on aux. posts, I ran a double eyed O cable from the hot post on starter to the red post on the firewall bracket. I also picked up all 12v B+ for the rest of the car at the same terminal as the cable from hot starter post. So far it seems to work just fine, and all is easily accessible.
The Jalopy Journal
