I plan to use a F-100 dual master cylinder in my '37 Buick, mounted under the floor. In order to do this I will have to set the master cylinder back about 8-10. I don't want to cut an access hole in the floor so I'd like to go with a remote fill reservoir. I did a search of the HAMB and found a lot of posts about remote fills. It seams like this would be an easy modification. I just have a few questions. Most posts mentioned complete kits but I would like to use the F-100 master cylinder. Can I just mount a reservoirs, one for front and back, on the firewall and run lines to the top of the master cylinder? I'm thinking two fittings tapped or brazed into the top of the master cylinder cover, short pieces of brake fluid resistant hose with steel brake lines to the reservoir. One post I found suggested strapping two big hose clamps around the master cylinder to snug down the cap to prevent the cap from leaking. Anyone do a DIY set up like this? Pictures would be helpful.
The bail-secured sheet metal cap on the F-100 Bendix master (and most others) was not designed to seal with a volume of fluid acting on it from above. A true remote master setup has the separate fluid dual reservoir plumbed through hoses directly to the master cylinder compensating ports, and not into another reservoir. I would recommend using the correct master for a remote setup, or providing an access in the floor for your present master. I have a similar situation on my '51 Ford, where the new dual master is well behind the original and under the floor. I made sure I had enough room to get a pressure cap on it for bladder bleeding, and a mirror allows easy fluid level checking.
Has anyone used an Allstar Performance remote set up? Would this work on a car with stock manual drum brakes?
The kits you buy to put a remote on a master not made with one, have a pretty thick aluminum plate, with pipe thread holes tapped in it. They sometimes do not leak, but I've also had to machine the top of the master to get a good flat surface for the gasket to seal...and it is a thicker gasket than the stock one. The stock cap uaually has a hole for air in it as well. You can easily make your own, but watch for leaks, unless you machine tha master. Interesting idea, and you and also make the reservoir out of something cool, and disguise it. Maybe a finned coil cover? Or an old alum. regulator cover? ANd you dont have to have 2 remotes, if you sue the stock master. Even if one side leaks out, and drains the reservoir, the other one still has enough fluid in the master to work the other side. It can't leak out through the other side.
I didn't want a hole in the floor either, so I just blind-fill mine with the use of a squeeze bottle with 6" of tubing attached and a small mirror. This technique works fine on the rare occasions that I use it.
"bobj49f2 Has anyone used an Allstar Performance remote set up? Would this work on a car with stock manual drum brakes?" No reason it won't work, as long as the bore is sized properly with the brakes and pedal ratio. <TABLE cl***=tborder style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR ***le="Post 6160842" vAlign=top><TD cl***=alt2 align=middle width=125> </TD><TD cl***=alt1> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
My concern with using a stock dual reservoir MC from a newer vehicle is the MCs have the rubber gasket that not only is the gasket but also a vacuum seal bladder that prevents air and moisture get into the MC. If I would build a remote system myself wouldn't I need to incorporate the same kind of barrier in the remove reservoir? Also, I think it's important to have to separate chambers with individual hoses so there isn't a chance that if once side of system develops a leak it won't be able to siphon fluid from the other side. Am I correct to worry about this?
Yes, again. That's why you should use a true remote system as pictured above, instead of a cobble job. But I would first try to use your F-100 master, to keep the system simple, cheaper and less complicated than switching to a remote system.
OK, I've been doing some searching and have come up with a plan. My neighbor is giving me a Corvetter MC from his kid's Model A hot rod. He said the MC was only used a very short time before his kid bought an entire set up from Speeday. The Corvette MC seems to be the way to go from all the reading I've been doing. For the remote reservoir I going with a double canister set up using two metal bottles, the type plumbers paste comes in. I found a few places that sell them new. I wanted something that looks the same vintage as the car, the plastic reservoir just wouldn't look good on the car. My set up is going to be less stock car looking without the fancy hose connections.
Question, so if I use a corvette master with a flat top with 2 threaded ports how do you use a single plastic reservoir
If I'm not careful I can turn into the King of Cobble. I like to think I can make everything (but have often proven otherwise). But even I wouldn't touch this one. If you want a remote fill master cylinder then best buy a remote fil master cylinder. They are not that expensive. The last thing you want to see trailing after you is a stream of brake fluid just before the peddle goes to the floor.
that's some silly *** **** right there.........please don't go on the road with some homemade brakes made out of paste cans.
I put a remote fill with a Corvette master cylinder on my 41 sedan for the same reason you want to, and unfortunately it always had a leak around the top of the master. It might be fixed with a check valve in line that shuts off once the master is full of fluid. My lines are braided TFE so I just said screw it and put the stock lid back on and use a mirror to check it and would use a siphon tube to fill it, but haven't needed to fill it.
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