I'm thinking about using the Cole Hersee latching solenoid for my battery disconect, so I can remote mount it. Part number 24200. Here is some product information: Link to latching solenoid information. Is anyone using this, and are you happy with it? Is this the same one Painless, MAD, and American Autowire use?
I found one supplier at near $50 for the latching solenoid. I thing Painless was near $150, but it does have a higher contact rating. Not sure it is latching, but may be contiuous duty.
Seems to be a good unit but my hotrod is not hi tech and this would just be more stuff to go wrong but it has merit for a lot of you. My preference would be a Manuel disconnect-Just old school here.
Motorhomes and RV's use them for chassis battery disconnects. They are about $35.00 - $50.00 and fused.
Not certain about a latching solenoid, but the most popular continuous-duty is the standard ignition #SS608, it is packeged under other brands (Federated, NAPA etcetc) but the part # stays the same. I believe it is 175 continuous, 750a momemtary. That is the one you'd find in electric golf carts, bucket trucks etcetc, never have known one of these to fail and i've been using them in the race cars for over 20 years and live thru tire shake (anything that stays together after that has my deepest respect).
I'm a manual guy too. Racecars use cables or rods. I think that Lokar just came out with a cable kit for remote mounted shut offs. Smokey http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/products/dragracing/disconnect-closeup-lever-fs.jpg
440RoadRunner, Look in almost all ProStock, TopSportsman, Comp & Advanced class cars, on the passenger floor near the ignition system is a solenoid. Most think that it is starter solenoid and they jump out the solenoid on the starter. In fact, it is the battery disconnect switch. The rearmost mounted battery disconnect switch activates this solenoid. It is thru this solenoid that the altenator output is terminated, otherwise the altenator output would have to run back to the line side of the disconnect switch or the positive post of the battery.
440 roadrunner: Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't even thought of that situation. And that situation is a definite possiblity. Will take your advice, go with the continuous duty type.
I got a key operated one from Watson's Street Works. Had it for around 5 yrs and works great. http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/battery.html
OJ, I found a cross to the SS608 on page 24 here:http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/SA-245_Interchange.pdf and the specs on page 5 for the crossed Cole Hersee 24059 here: http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/master_cat/e_solenoid.PDF It appears to be rated 85 amps continuous and the coil is rated continuous duty. I found another rated 200 amps on page 2 of the above listed link, part Cole Hersee number 24143. Is anyone using either of these part numbers in their disconnect setup? 41fastback, the Watson Streetworks setup sounds as though they are using the latch type that I originally inquired about. After 440roadrunners point, I may wish to go with a continuous operated solenoid rather than a latching, just to insure it will shut off.
I just looked up the standard ign specs on the SS608 and you're right Grobb, i've been using those solenoids for so many years that i got the specs mixed up in my head, the ampre rating that i recalled was probably for those big disconnect switches and not the solenoid. Thats' what i love about the HAMB, there is always somebody there. Thanks.
There is one other item to think about. If you forget and leave it latched it will drain the battery in a few days.
I plan to latch / unlatch my electric / remote battery disconnect using one of the functions on the keyless entry fob via a relay. Sort of an el-cheapo alarm to prevent theft. Several bypass circuits will be used around the latched solenoid to keep power to the computer, radio, etc. as needed. I think it should work well. There is no load / drain when set in either position, as far as I can tell. Gary