Technical Remote Oil Filter Questions

Today I was messing around with what I wanted to do about the oil filtration setup for my hemi. When I was running it on the stand I was using a Hot Heads spin on adapter that angled the filter upwards next to the head. I want to run a remote filter because it's very tight around the frame and would be all over exhaust when I change the filter.

When I got the truck it had a Filcoolator unit on the firewall. Before I understood the difference between a byp*** filter and full flow I was planning on using the Filcoolator as my oil filter but thanks to some helpful advice from some other members on here I learned that if I wanted to use the Filcoolator it would have to be in conjunction with a full flow filter. I know that it's completely unnecessary but I've got new Baldwin byp*** filters for it and would prefer it to be functional if at all possible.

Here's some pictures of what I mocked up today to see what y'all think.
I made a mount that would put the filter on the outside of the frame. The remote unit is a dual inlet/outlet. I lined the outlet port directly in line with the block.
I've got plenty of clearance with the wheel cut all the way to the right.
I've never run a remote filter before and had in my mind to use 1/2" copper tubing but got to thinking today that that might not be a good idea. Doesn't copper become brittle with vibration? I don't think the kind of engine mounts I'm using will allow a lot of engine movement but I'm betting hard line is not the way to go.

I plan to plug the other inlet and run a 5/16" copper line up to the bottom of the Filcoolator unit after this valve to meter how much oil actually goes through it. I don't plan to actually move a whole lot of oil up to the byp*** filter.
Here's a picture of the Filcoolator with the spin on directly below.

I then plan to run a line that will drain it back into the lifter valley where I also have my PCV plumbed to. I drilled out the rim that stops the tube in the compression fitting so that the copper tube would go down below where the PCV fitting is in the wye fitting so that it would not be pulling oil there. There's about 5" of tube below where the 90 degree bend is.

I know this is way more complicated than it needs to be and has way more drawbacks than any kind of benefit, but I'm still drawn to want to run it this way just because I like for things to be functional and making things harder on myself! I thought I'd put it up here for the experts to take a look at this mess and see what all could go wrong. My main questions are will the way I have things run actually work and do I need to use hoses from the engine to the remote adapter. Any advice is much appreciated.

 

If I put a filter in the wheel house I sure would build a shield for it. Rocks, debris, a wrench (don't ask) thrown by the tire could ruin your day.

I am working on an OT dune buggy and someone remote mounted the filter in the back and it is just aching to get swatted off there by whatever or whoever I run over while off road. One of the tasks I have before dune season is to cage that filter.

Consider it.

 

^^^^^^^word. Kid that works out of my shop on his sand toys has 6 remote filters rigged up to his blown BBC sand rail. Has each pair is caged in expanded metal. I've seen a few dents and rips in the cages, but the filters were untouched.

 

That's a good point @Bandit Billy. Maybe I can make something out of sheet metal to cover it and tie in with the inner fender.

 

You're right, using both types of filters adds unnecessary complexity for absolutely no benefit. But if you insist put the full-flow filter on the inside of the frame rail, just behind the engine. Any oil lines run from the engine to the filter need to be flexible, and considering the amount of money needed to build a Hemi I'd protect that investment by making sure those lines were "aircraft quality".

 

That does seem a little more complicated than it needs to be but I’m guilty of doing the same kind of thing on a regular basis and I can appreciate we’re your mind is. I’m doing a similar project now with a Hemi and will be using a remote mount filter. I like the beehive look and have been trying to find a full flow filter with that style. I’ve seen them converted to accept a spin on full flow filter. Not sure if that would be possible with the unit you have. As far as the lines go I would definitely recommend hose and when deciding on it make sure to confirm the the hose is rated for the temperature of the oil. I’ve seen people overlook this and the hose eventually fails. There’s plenty of options out there. I primarily use Aeroquip but the high temp hose is blue and might not fit in to your color scheme.

 

Thank you for the advice @junkman8888 and @SEAAIRE354. I'll definitely be looking in to some aircraft quality hose. I think temperature and longevity was what made me think of copper tube in the first place but I didn't consider the vibration and engine movement until I mocked up everything yesterday and saw how short the line would be and thought yeah I don't think that's going to work. I think it will also help me with mounting the remote adapter because I made the mount yesterday perpendicular to the frame just to keep from having to bend the tube but with hose I'll have a little more give.

 

Could you mount the filter behind the engine, between the bellhousing and frame? looks like there's some room there. Then you could use solid lines, if you mount the filter bracket to the bellhousing bolts, instead of the frame.

AN lines would be great if you keep the filter where it is.

 

I'll look at that today and see @squirrel. When I'm looking at different mounting positions is there any difference between the spin on being mounted vertically or horizontally other that the extra mess horizontal would make?

 

As long as your filter has an anti-drainback valve, it can be mounted in horizontal without any trouble. I agree that you need flexible lines from engine to frame. I don;t like the filter mounted in the wheelwell, for all the reasons already mentioned. I understand to use the old byp*** filter, it looks cool and fits the theme. Byp*** filters are common on big truck diesel engines, they do help clean the oil even more than the regular filter.

 

There is no way I'd mount the filter outside the frame in the wheel well area, it's far to vulnerable there. Keep it in the engine compartment somehow, even if you have to do away with the Filcoolator and mount it there.

 

My 2 cents...
Do not use any 'right-angle' fittings; they restrict flow.
Use a minimum of 1/2" id on whatever hose/tube you select.
Aeroquip and Parker both have suitable hose in '-8' .
Keep the hose length under 40"

 

I have installed remote oil filters on 40 Fords with a small block. Gives more room for exhaust etc. Installed outside of frame behind gravel shield under front fender. Done several-up high and no issues with many road miles.

 

Thanks for all the information everybody. I went straight for the fender well because I figured the closer the block the better but now that I know I can run a longer hose I'm going to try to find a better place for it on the frame where it's not so close to the wheel.

 

Here's a couple of pictures of different placements I was looking at today. I was interested in what @squirrel said about if it was mounted to the drivetrain that I could use solid line.
There's a couple of holes in the back of the bellhousing next to the slave cylinder that could be used for a bracket if I ran it horizontally. I plan on wrapping the exhaust but it might still be a little close heat wise.

I also wondered about a bracket tied in with a couple of bolts at the tailshaft housing to run it vertically. This puts the filter about 20" back from the adapter plate on the block. To get away from any sharp bends like @73RR suggested I'll get some 45 degree adapters for the adapter plate on the block.

If y'all think I should just stay away from the copper tubing completely and run hose I have a few questions about that too. I was looking at some of the -8 AN Aeroquip hoses on Summit and it looks like they have a temperature rating of 300 degrees. Is this the kind y'all were suggesting? Also when you use this hose do you crimp on threaded AN fittings or do you run to barbed fittings with clamps? I've never made up my own hoses is the reason I ask.

 

This aint cheap but neither is that Hemi. An option to wrapping your pipes. I have one of these products (same company) wrapped around a starter on my flathead to protect it from the headers.

 

I appreciate you bringing this to my attention @Bandit Billy as the main reason I got exhaust wrap was because I had to run the pipe close to the starter on the driver's side. I didn't know they made something like that for the starter or oil filters. Are you using the velcro type starter shield on yours?

 

I use AN fittings on all my fuel systems and when I use flex hose I buy these fittings from summit. They unscrew, slide the top half (in the pic) down the neatly cut hose, stick the other end up the flex hose and screw them back together using a wrench and your vice as it takes some torque toward the end.

Add according fittings to the filter adapters, thread them together, snug and done. I don't like barbs and clamps on my stuff. If you do hard lines instead do SS. I am not a copper fan under a car.

 

I do not use AN fitting as they have a reduced ID. Aeroquip and Parker both sell 'socketless' fittings that require no special tools or skills to ***emble. They are 'push-on' and never get off kinda deals.
SOCKETLESS Fittings | Aeroquip (eatonpowersource.com)
You can search for Aeroquip AQP hose or for FC-332-08 It has max temp of 300 deg and max press of 250

 

Exactly that product. Looks nice, hides the modern starter and protects it from the ceramic headers that I didn't want to wrap.

 

you might be able to download the instructions for ***embling the fittings from the Summit web page.

The push on ones sound pretty easy, unless you get the length wrong, or something.

 

The sweeping 90 degree AN fittings don't have near the restriction that 90 degree pipe fittings have, also.

 

Thanks for all the advice everybody. It's much appreciated. I reckon I'm going to put in an order for two three foot pieces of this since it has the same heat and pressure specifications but is black (not that it really matter since you can't see it).
And four of these and I think that will do it.
I really like the look of the Hildebrandt unit @Jeff Norwell and that it's for a spin on. I think that's kind of what @SEAAIRE354 was talking about looking for earlier in this thread.

 

Stay the hell away from stuff like this

Use the longest radii you can. And if you can route the hose and not use angled fittings that would be better.

Apparently I don't type very fast......

 

@73RR I'll wait until I get my hoses and fittings in before I make my mount for the remote oil filter. I might be able to do what you said and get away with no angled fittings needed.

 

I see the need for the remote filter but as that "Byp*** filter" will be 99.9 decoration and not very functional why not just run a couple of pretend lines from it to the back of the engine and pretend that it works and be done with it. Or sell it to someone who can actually make real use of it.

As far as the remote filter location, Protected from foreign objects and the road it's self and fairly reasonably accessible are the main factors. I've worked on a few late model rigs that you spend more time removing the stuff in the way of being able to change the filter or drain the oil than you do doing the actual job.

 

Those br*** plumbers fittings are tradtional.