Some one who has experience with this? I,ve read about it in Street Rod Builder Magazine, ant it's made by a company called CH Topping & Co located in Long Beach, CA. I'm very interested in princip drawings or pictures of a similar system.
I'm not familiar with the one you mentioned but unless it's something other than a vacuum booster, I can't see it being much different from the one used in 120 series Volvos. Aren't they available locally?
I plan to use one on my 35. I kept the remote booster from the 66 Jag S type I took my rear suspension from. That was a single circuit system however. Plumbing is very easy on that one. Just one pipe from the master cyl, to the slave syl on the booster. And then of cource vacuum from engine to booster. Maybe newer jags used remote booster also?
I HAD one on my 37 Chevy truck, was on when I bought it. It gives a very vague feel to the pedal, I did not like it. Took it off when I redid all the brakes. Now I just use the master cyl direct without power and it's fine.
[ QUOTE ] I HAD one on my 37 Chevy truck, was on when I bought it. It gives a very vague feel to the pedal, I did not like it. Took it off when I redid all the brakes. Now I just use the master cyl direct without power and it's fine. [/ QUOTE ] Question; are you running "disk / drum" or "drum / drum"?? I have a vac booster on the shelf and I haven't been able to decide if my "A" Hiboy (flathead powered) with disks on the front and drums on the rear will really will need the booster. (dual MC) Because the flatty will have a SCoT blower on it; I would probably would need a elctric motor driven vac pump.
They're not that uncommon. I know quite a few late model BMWs have the booster up behind the headlight. My '56 caddy had it way up in the front of the engine compartment too.
All the old International single axle dump trucks usta use them. They mounted right under the driver, under the chassis. A pain in the ass to access when changing rusty brake lines on salt trucks. They had their own bleeder screw and if not properly bled, caused a spongy, low pedal, just like a master cylinder with air in it. Made for brake fluid running down your arms and into your armpits while reaching up from your creeper to work on the pesky thing...
A remote operated booster (no matter if it's a power booster or not, that's not the issue)is operated via a slave sylinder connected to the braking pedal, right? That means you don't have any connection with your brakingsystem if the juice in that slavesylinder leeks out, rigth? To avoid this problem in the rest of the braking system it's actually two sets of juicesnakes, right? (Please excuse my bad english here). Since any syastem isn't stronger than the weakest part, isn't a remote operated brakingsystem like this old fashion and more dangerous than a common double system? Just wondering.... Of course it's possible to actually have two sets of salve sylinders and snakes too. Comment? My car is a steel 34 Roadster with original crossmember. How big booster does this combination accept under floor installed anyway?
I have seen those on Jags, Mini Cooper S' ( the Real ones ), and Alfas. They seemed to work OK, but I have heard that some Racers bypassed the plumbing on them on the Cooper S cars. I dont remember why that was. It could have been that the boosters did not preform well, but maybe it was because of those tiny little disc brakes that were on the front of those cars or it might have been a balance issue... Some alfas had double braking systems with a remote booster on both sides ( one for the front, one for he rear ) That took up a lot of space under the hood.
this one looks like it's got way more boost than anyone would need, but yeah, I think you basically run brake lines from your regular pedal-operated MC to the remote booster, then the brake lines to the brakes themselves come from the remote booster. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, that's just a guess. But since it's still a dual-circuit thing, if one of the brake lines going from your master cylinder to the booster were to leak, you'd still have the other one to fall back on.
Dave, I have disc/drum on my 37 (MustII front susp). Firewall mounted dual master cyl. I upgraded to the larger 11 inch rotors when I took off the remote booster. The design of mine was that it only boosted the fronts, it was like an in-line booster. Out of master cyl to booster in, then out of booster to tee and then to calipers. It had a vacuum line that provided the boost with a diaphragm, like a small power booster on a car. I find that the pedal effort is not that much different with the larger rotors. The main difference is at stop in drive the pedal is a little harder to push than with the booster, but stopping from cruising speed i really don't have any different in force. It does have a better feel for the progressive aspects now with the remote booster gone. My remote booster was mounted outside the framerail below the master cyl, hid by the back of the fender. I would not run a booster on your car. I think it is light enough that you don't need it.
I've got a Midland in my 40 convertible, works great. They were stock on 70's Chrysler motor homes I believe.
Good article in Classic Trucks this month "Small Space Big Reward", not a traditional setup but sounds good.. Its an electric hydraulic kit made by ABS. Claims to be smallest system with highest output pressure on the market. Alleviates problem of not having enough room for adequate sized booster. Sounds like a good system. Good read, probably high dollar.
[ QUOTE ] Dave... I would not run a booster on your car. I think it is light enough that you don't need it. [/ QUOTE ] Thanks for the opinion 38. I would have a problem hidding it anyway.
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