The banjo steering wheel in the 32 mor-door needs to be removed to replace the bearing in the original steering column,,,,and I don't want to screw-up the wheel trying to pry it off. There are no holes in the wheel to remove it like the late models. got any ideas? HRP
Which bearing are you replacing? That may change your approach. You have to remove the horn*****on and its surround. Unfortunately, they're attached to the inner shaft that runs right through the steering box. It ends at the actual electrical switch at the base of the steering box. Normal three-fingered steering wheel pullers, like the ones available for loan at Autozone, do NOT work. They'll seriously jack up the finish on your steering wheel. The best tool is a $155 reproduction Wilson steering wheel puller, available at places like Mac's. I don't have one, but maybe someone here can loan one to you. That pulls the steering wheel in a jiffy. Just be careful not to hurt the threads on the top of the steering shaft or the shaft itself. Here's a pic of the Wilson puller in case you want to create your own version. --Matt
I was busy typing when Unkl posted. His puller WILL work, but I have no idea what it is or where it came from.
If you right click on the pic I posted,you will find that it comes from JC Whitney. No idea on the price.
The puller that Unk pictured is also available at NAPA. We have a couple at work to pull bearings off of shafts where you can't get behind the bearing. I believe they are called Clam Shell Pullers.
i've always called those "gear splitters" you need some all-thread too.handy to have around when you gotta rebuild trannsmissions-george
Thanks guys,,the wilson tool must be the item I have heard about,but $155 bones I can't afford, ,,,,,I'll look around for someone with a clam shell type puller... HRP
I think I carved out a couple pieces of wood and bolted them together. I used my two jaw puller to remove the wheel.
You can get a nifty flange bearing at an impliment store that will replace that rubber thing with a ball bearing. Slips down into the jacket but the flange keeps it from going to far.
As mentioned previously, the trick might be getting the horn rod out! You may have to unbolt the column drop & unbolt the box at the frame to let the column pivot down so you can get the rod out. At least in a mordor, you've got room - in the pickup, no amount of swiveling will get the rod out. When you do get the wheel off, consider drilling & tapping two holes in the hub under the area hidden by the horn ring so next time you can use a normal puller. I did it on my '40 wheel & it worked a treat! Good Luck!
The horn rod is not a big problem,,,,i have that one covered,,,,on a banjo there is no place to drill and tap,,the center is nothing like the 4D wheel....I did think of that solution too! HRP
[ QUOTE ] As mentioned previously, the trick might be getting the horn rod out! You may have to unbolt the column drop & unbolt the box at the frame to let the column pivot down so you can get the rod out. At least in a mordor, you've got room - in the pickup, no amount of swiveling will get the rod out. [/ QUOTE ] Like I said, the first step is getting the horn and its surround off. I doubt that you'll have to ubolt the steering box from the frame, although you would have to in a pickup. You can't use any kind of puller if you don't pull the horn & horn ring. Unhook the spring retainer at the base of the real horn switch, at the bottom of the steering box. Then remove the switch****embly. The horn rod should come out after that.
And when pulling leave the nut on the steering shaft, turned up level to the top of the threads, until the wheel pops loose. I demonstrated this point to Deuce Rails a while back...ask him...
Maybe you could remove the horn rod like someone did in my 32 5-W. Just pull it out untill it hits the roof and cut it off!!!!Some****embly required.
We always called them split halves. Never worked in a machine shop that didn't have several sets in various sizes laying around. You can pic them up at any machinist supply, shouldn't be too pricey for the size needed to do a steering wheel. I've seen them at times at harbor freight or****mins real cheap (quality?). Ought to be stout enough to pull your wheel. So now you have three names for the same tool thanks to Voodoo, Yorgatron and the PknBner
[ QUOTE ] So you suggest I ask for one of these 3 named products.. Voodoo, Yorgatron and the PknBner. HRP [/ QUOTE ] I'd ask for the******* first. But you'd probably be better off with the voodoo or the yorgatron less miles.
[/ QUOTE ] I'd ask for the******* first. But you'd probably be better off with the voodoo or the yorgatron less miles. [/ QUOTE ] Hey, I'm old and getting older in a couple of weeks.
[ QUOTE ] And when pulling leave the nut on the steering shaft, turned up level to the top of the threads, until the wheel pops loose. I demonstrated this point to Deuce Rails a while back...ask him... [/ QUOTE ] Bruce is a great guy, and makes a great point. I'd get an extra nut for support, just for safety, so that you have two nuts thicknesses to press against. Those threads are 70 years old, and I'd protect them any way you can. Get that horn ring and trim off, and then report back!
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