I broke off a couple studs while taking off the water pump on my 235. One I was able to get a stud remover on but the other one only has about a quarter inch left sticking out so I drilled it and tried using a stud extrator on it only to snap that off too. What are my next best options? Should I try and weld somthing on to the end of the stud and try and remove it that way? Thanks Zombilly
hammer a pointy punch into part of it near the edge, or use a couple picks to pick at it and rotate it, load it with a penitrating oil and try heat too
if you have a little bit sticking out you're golden, get a piece of s**** 1/8 bar stock, drill a hole in it the diameter of the broken fastener (guessing 5/16" or 3/8") put the broken fanstner through the hole and hit it with the welder. you could also weld an over sized nut over the outside of the broken fastener if clearance is an issue. I also suggest using some heat and some penetrating spray and do that cycle a few times before trying to remove it.
**** there are so many ways.......... I guess you could heat and normalize the extractor and if ya lucky the heat may help also some WD-40 and a few sharp hits with a hammer then try a center punch and hammer and try and wind the ****er out if that fails try a left hand drill bit and keep going till its just a shell and you can colapps it in on its self QQ
..slide a 3/8 nut over the nub, then weld (mig) up the hole, put socket on rotate out. Done a bunch of times on broken studs/bolts, has never failed me.
you learned a valuable lesson...never use an EZ out..never i call them "**** it up even worse-ers"..seriously , the guy who invented them should be strung up by his balls
I bought one set of the ****ing sets when I was around 18, broke almost every one of them and never replaced any of them. I've had them work, but if you do break one, the hardness is somewhere between superman's knee cap and woodpecker lips. For something snapped off, I file the left over bolt flush with the casting, punch the center with a center punch and use a small drill (1/8") and start a pilot hole. If you've used lots of penetrating oil and some heat to break the ring of crud and rust up, go with a larger left-handed screw machine drill bit and it will sometimes walk the stub right out. Otherwise,keep using larger drills and work up to the tap drill size. By then you can sometimes peel the remaining threads out with a scribe and needle nose pliers. Make up an aluminum block at least an inch thick with a hole (or series of holes) to use as a guide to keep the drill straight. Put some tape on the drill bit so you know when to stop. I always run a tap down the hole just to make sure all the old threads are gone. Use a tapping block (or the drill block mentioned above) to keep the tap square. Bob
I've had them work, but if you do break one, the hardness is somewhere between superman's knee cap and woodpecker lips. haha i love this one great ****ergy.
I once saw a guy drill a hole in the stud, hammer in the handle of one of these, and turn it with vice-grips! ~Jason
In a pinch, it might work, but its a one shot deal. The tang on a file is still pretty hard material, maybe easier to remove than a busted easy out. Bob
heres how i would do it, i would take a piece of 16ga about 1" wide and 4" long, drill a hole one size small then the bolt near one end of your strip, place the hole over the broken bolt and plug weld it on, now you can just keep wiggleing the strip of 16ga like a handle, the bolt was likely stuck pretty good or it would not of broken off and now it has been expanded by the "never get it out".
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