Technical Removing aluminum head from cast Iron block

Thats the high performance engine option, quite popular in US.

 

It'll fit. All it takes is time and money.

 

That was going to be my suggestion, remove the studs, if possible, to help with the removing of the head. Aluminum will really grip steel over time. But I was going to recommend a stud removing tool, as to not damage the threads. Using this tool you may not get the studs out.... but maybe you will and still have your studs.






Bones

 

Here in the UK there was a special tool made by "Sykes Pickavant" I think or one of the quality automotive tool manufacturers, that consisted of a very thin walled tube made of spring steel with saw teeth cut into the ends. This was operated in a manner similar to a hole saw, by placing a tube of the correct size around the head stud and rotating with a tommy bar, very gently using plenty of lubricant such as paraffin (kerosene) the cutter would saw through the corrosion bond between the dissimilar metals of the head and studs. I have only seen a few of these tools as one may assume they could be quite fragile if used by a ham-fisted mechanic. They do turn up occasionally on the unmentionable Bay of fleas website. I would assume that Snap on or another US tool company would have sold a similar tool in the past.

 

Can you heat the studs with a torch, let them cool. 2x4 and a 2lb hammer and start hitting on the side of the head? Never done it with an Al head.

 

Galvanic action. It will require patience, time, lubricant, gentle tapping, and steady pressure to eventually separate the head from the block. Aluminum reacts with steel to produce over time a grip that you could probably run the engine with no stud nuts in place and never miss a beat. Ford small block timing chain covers will do the same thing near the water passages. Patience or you will break it.

 

Hey, Cymro;
Thanks for the name n info. I don't have, but knew about the thinwalled cutters, not their name.
Marcus...

 

Can you just make the thin walled cutter using a stainless steel tube with some teeth cut in the bottom and some heat to harden them, then a very slow drill or hand drill to cut the corrosion away.

 

^^^^^^^^The corrosion is between the studs and the head. The aluminum corrodes and swells in the recess locking the two parts together.

 

well,its not that often you hear about trying to harden stainless... but that is def the aforementioned tool

 

Very common on fiats

 

I spent some hours working with one of those cutters, and got nearly halfway down the first stud. They do work, but man, are they slow.
That's why I made the puller plate. That worked.

 

I have been treating the studs a few times a day with a product that should help dissolve some of the corrosion around the studs. I use a syringe to inject the solvent into the area around the stud. Hopefully this will help. I am planning to make a pull plate to help put upwards pressure on the head.
Jim

 

If all else fails go get a bottle of Coca-Cola maybe and pour around the studs. I hung a model A engine about an inch off the floor by the head with a chain, coked it came back in the morning head was loose. Lippy

 

I am 78 years old. I have experienced aluminum and steel corrosion. You will have to cut around the studs with a hole saw. You will end up with oversized holes but the head will be usable. The corrosion seals the gap so no liquid can get by so a penetrant can‘t do any good.

 

Here is another way to use heat. Screw coupling nuts on the protruding studs. Heat the nuts to a dull cherry red and let them cool. The heat will transfer down the stud and the expansion and contraction will help to break the bond. Not sure if it matters if you do all, several or one at a time.
When I did my "Heat is Magic" song and dance for my students, I emphasised that it is best to do the process at least 3 times before attempting to remove the stubborn part. You just have to be more stubborn and smarter than what you're working on.
I like the jack screws on the studs, too!