I just purchased a set of re-pop fender scripts for my 1955 Ford Country Sedan wagon. They were advertised for a 1954 wagon, but the type style is exactly the same as the 55. (That's why I bought them.) The new ones need some type of Tinnerman clip to hold them in place. Not included. (More on that.) Does anyone have experience taking off fender scripts from this year of car? It appears that the originals were bolted on from inside. Is there some easy way to access those bolts? I'm not opposed to damaging them in order to remove them, but I would rather not risk damaging the exterior of the car. Once they are out of the way, I will need some type of clip I can apply from the outside. I know this may involve drilling some holes. Can you recommend a clip number? I need to get this done prior to the Piston Power Show in Cleveland on March 16th. Thanks...
I am pretty sure what you are looking for is called a barrel clip. I do not have a part number - I am pretty sure that you can get cheap kits on eBay that include a few different sizes. They ship for less than $10 altogether. I don't have a wagon so I am not sure what to say about taking off the old script. Sounds like you will have to access a panel from the inside. As I recall I think the rear most inner corners in the wagons are actually removable sheet metal panels.
The scripts are on the upper rear section of the front fenders. You might be able to access the fasteners by removing the vent tubes from the inside of the fenders.
It also appears that there may be a way to remove a portion of the inside of the wheel well. Does that sound possible?
If they are barrel clips such as this the clip stays in the fender and the emblem is installed/removed from the outside. No access needed to backside. Thunderbird v-8 emblems on my front fender have flat push on clips attached from the backside. Victoria emblem on the doors use the barrel clips.
You're right about that. I forgot I had the driver's side off once to clean it up a little. It's part number 16103 in the illustration.
another option may be to pull headlight bucket.may tear the cork gasket if so you should be able to save.
^^^ You'd need some awfully long and skinny arms to get to the back of the fender from there. Tomato, if you look carefully at the illustration, it looks like there are nuts and washers holding that emblem on. You may end up breaking it if you try prying it off and then you'll still need to get at it from the back side.
I think I will try unbolting the panel on the inner wheel well and attempting to access nuts through there. Stay tuned...
you are right my bad I reread original post.I thought it was the engine emblems.it is amazing what I sometimes read but do not see.again sorry for the confusion
You bet you can & will if you pry them off,any of the attachments need to be removed from the back side. HRP
I'm hoping I can salvage the old ones for possible resale in the future, or just add to my 55 Ford parts inventory.
If they are the type that a picture of was posted above by HRP, they just pry off with a screwdriver or small pry bar. I've seen some though that are speed nuts that have to be turned off like a regular nut If you can feel them, maybe you can get a camera down there to see what your dealing with. A camera (and light) that has a flip out sreeen may be able to be set up so you can watch what your doing on the screen.
With the Cleveland Piston Power Show looming on the horizon, I needed to get my *** in gear and swap out these fender scripts. With the "tube clips" now in my possession, it was time to tackle this job. Starting early on Saturday, March 10th in my tiny one-car garage with the temperature hovering around 36 degrees, I began. Starting on the front p***enger side, I jacked up the car and removed the wheel. This gave me access to the inner wheel well panel. One of the Tinnerman bolts was rusted, but I managed to reach behind it to get the panel off. (So far, so good.) Yes, the backside of the Country Sedan script was visible. (I knew that fender had been in an accident at some point in the car's life.) I was quite pleased to see "screw-on" clips securing the pins on the script. That made removal a piece of cake. It was at this point that I started having "fender script remorse". Since this side came off so easy, the opposite side should be just as good, right?. Maybe I should not have bought the re-pop 54 versions. (The type style is exactly the same, but the pin placement is slightly off.) Maybe I should have the originals de-pitted and re-chromed. (Hold that thought...) Once the original was off the car, I made a template using the pin arrangements of the new one. Yes, I had to drill holes in the fender of the car! I popped in the tube clips and VERY carefully began inserting the expensive (and fragile) name plate. Honest to God, my hand was shaking while gently easing the pins into the clips. I expected it to crack at any moment. I placed a soft piece of wood over the length of the entire nameplate to give equal pressure across the entire thing. Also, gentle tapping with a rubber mallet helped. It worked. (The re-pops were not of the same quality as original parts.) I re***embled the inner wheel well part after wire-brushings it and throwing a coat of black paint on it. (While I was under the car, I noticed a large amount of dirt and rust built up on the steering components. I spent some extra time s****ing and wire-brushing. My brother said, "That's how frame-off restorations begin!") Thus ended day 1. Day 2 (Monday) was pretty much the same, with the major exception of two rusted on bolts and different clips (thank you, Hotrodprimer) holding the script on. No matter how hard I tried, I could not remove them from the inside. When they put them on at the factory, it was for keeps. I'm sorry to report that I had to break the old nameplate off. (Dammit. So much for re-using it, unless I find someone to re-braze it back together.) Once again, I was able to mount the new nameplate on without snapping anything off. (I used a little lube on the pins that time. ) So...in conclusion, it was a real learning experience.