Hi everyone , first post here so bear with me...... As far as my flathead ford what is the best (not fastest) way to remove the head studs? I assume using either a double nut or a rotary stud remover with a 1/2" breaker bar . Maybe a little heat ?
I have had luck by heating each stud individually and melting a bit of candle was against the stud. The wax will flow down the stud and into the threads. Then use a rotary stud remover. The double nut method is more likely to result in a broken stud. Sometimes tightening the stud a bit before trying to remove will help.
Use heat and a stud remover. Get some fender washers and drop them over the studs you want to remove to protect the deck if you slip. Heat studs (I found it easiest to do 4 at a time) hit them a few times with a hammer then rip into it. Watch this video from around the 12 min mark
Flood with propper penetrating oil (not wd40) leave to soak overnight. Repeat again and again a again. Then try and get the stud out with a stud removal tool.
I've used to use a oxy/acetylene torch to get the base of the stud cherry red and then I'd let them cool down naturally. Recently, I've purchased a Bolt Buster heat induction tool and this tool has worked so much better and faster than the torch does. I also use a Mayhew stud removal collet-type tool with a Milwaukee 3/8th impact. The 3/8th's still has some grunt, but not enough to just snap the stud like the 1/2" unit does. This combo has worked very well for me on two motors.
Induction heater is excellent for stud problems, used for V -12 Lincoln last week , customer spent a month with rope in cylinder, p-oil, thin wedges between deck and head,etc. Also used this tool on Jaguar heads, prior to that we heated stud end and mig welded nut on stud, and did usual soak and turn. Of course the the tool is used for all the rusted crap that comes in the door. $500.00 , worth it for a shop.
Nice video !! Bet ole Henry is just laughing every day watching people get these ole engines stripped ..... my question is why wouldn't a normal valve spring compressor do the job of getting the keepers off ?
I did some on another application, a marine flat head engine while in HS shop class. The instructor was as slick as it gets. He built up dams around the studs with plumber's putty and let his concoction soak in for a few days. I believe it was a diesel and ATF mix. Maybe diesel and MMO. Then he had us rap on the stud with a hammer, let it soak some more. But every stud did eventually come out, a couple we had to hit with the blue wrench.
Use a old time copper winding welder , you know the kind your grand dad had , with crank handle on the top 100%duty cycle, clamp the ground to the stud , hot to the block ,let her cook for a minute, cool “em” they spin right out !!!
Heat the stud up red hot and cool it down with rust dissolver oil. Repeated heating and cooling is the trick. 3 to 4 repetitions are usually enough. Dissolver oil needs time to penetrate adequately. You can make your own rust dissolver oil with ATF and acetone (50/50).
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